2009-2014 Honda Fit GE8 Front Sway Bar Install

INFO
Time: 2.5-4.0 hrs

Difficultly: 6.5 out of 10
If you are able to R&R a clutch; this DIY is no problem.
If you are able to installed a cat back; this is a nice challenge.
If your ability caps at oil changes; this maybe too difficult.

OEM Front Sway Bar: 21mm
SPOON Sway Bar: 25mm

SPOON Sway Bar comes with offset end-links and harder bushes.


Comparison: OEM (top) vs SPOON (bottom)


Comparison: SPOON 25mm (top) vs OEM 21mm (bottom)


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INSTALL
The night before:
Check that you have all the proper tools.
Charge batteries (Cordless: Impact-gun, drill... and flash light)
Purchase (x4) new sway-bar end-link nuts (you can ruse them; if you can remove them)
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Jack up front-end high enough on jack stands to allow enough room to slide the Sub-Frame and Steering-Rack out. Remove Tires.


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Disconnect battery 10mm


Remove intake. Disconnect three (x3) Steering Rack connectors.
CAUTION!!!!! HIGH AMPERAGE!!!!!


Steering Rack Connectors




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This is important!!!
Turn the steering wheels so the tires are straight ahead.
Loop the drivers seat belt through the steering wheel and buckle it in.
This prevents the Steering-Wheel from rotating damaging the Clock-Spring in the Steering-Column.


Remove Plastic-Cover


Remove Bolt 10mm




Remove steering column from steering rack


The pink plastic aligns the Steering-Column with the Steering-Rack.
This ensures the Steering-Wheel is straight after re-installing. You can be one tooth off, so during the test drive check to ensure the steering wheel is straight. If not you are one tooth off.


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Remove Sway-Bar End-Links


Wire-Brush the threads. Then PB Blast, they are tough to remove.
Take your time. You need to reuse these nuts!!!


14mm Ratchet-Wrench and a number 5 Allen


Save the Nuts, you will need to reuse these nuts. Buying a new set from Honda just in case might be a good idea for stand-by.


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Remove Steering-Rack End-Link Pin & Nut 17mm


After the Pin & Nut is removed.
Hammer on Steering-Knuckle to "Break Free" the Steering-Rack End-Link


Remove the Lower-Ball-Joint Pin & Nut 19mm


Hammer on Steering-Knuckle to release Ball-Joint


Hammering will easily pop the ball-joint and end-link free.


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Remove the Front bolt of the Torque-Dampener


Unbolt the front of the Torque-Dampener 17mm


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Remove the Lower-Control-Arm bolts (x3 each side)


ALL BOLTS ARE DIFFERENT LENGTHS!!!
DO NOT MIX UP!!!
19 mm


I repeat:
ALL BOLTS ARE DIFFERENT LENGTHS!!!
DO NOT MIX UP!!!


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Place Jack under Sub-Frame


Remove the LAST TWO (x2) bolts holding the Sub-Frame in (left and right)


Use extension and 19mm


The last two sub-frame bolts are simular to the three (x3) control arm bolts.
ALL BOLTS ARE DIFFERENT LENGTHS!!!
DO NOT MIX UP!!!


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Go around the car and double check everything is disconnected.
SLOWLY lower sub frame with the jack. Listen for noises that may indicate trouble.
Lower a little bit then check everything is disconnected and/or nothing is being "hung up."
Repeat until the Sub-Frame is cleared.

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Once the frame is cleared.
Remove the Steering-Rack 14mm (x5)


Remove Sway-Bar 12mm (x4)


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Reuse the Metal-Brackets from the OEM bar
Grease the Bushings, Brackets and SPOON sway-bar where they contact to prevent noise.


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RE-INSTALL in reverse.
Take your time.
Don't rush to get the frame back in.
It's a one man operation; but a second person to Re-Install the Sub-Frame is very helpful.
Clean all the bolt threads with a wire brush and
Use "Anti-Seize" on all bolts before re-installing.

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REVIEW

I finished in 2.5 hours by myself and nothing broke. This wasn't the first time I have had the sub frame out; I knew what to expect. It seems like a lot of work, but it's honestly not. Taking your time is important aspect; and that is what consumes the most time.

Street:
Steering responds is greatly increased. Less steering input is needed to turn. The track (in the spring) will be the true test.

Track:


Would I do it again?
Yes, well worth the money and time. It pairs nicely with coil-overs.

A suggestion is to install/ perform while everything is apart:
Front Control Arm bushing fill
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ount-fill.html
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...t-install.html


My Build Thread:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...e36-s-ge8.html


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nice DIY, beyond my capabilities. +rep to u!

 

I'm glad the gd didn't require that much work.

 

If anyone has any additional information that they would like to see in the DIY please contact me with suggestions. ~thanks

 

Jesus lord... MAD PROPS good sir! I wish I lived near you as I'd trust to hire you to do mine :P

 

Very nice writeup! This would have been a lot of help 6 months ago lol. Interested to hear your impression of it on the track when it's time.

 

How the hell did I miss this? Fantastic writeup. Doesn't look bad at all.

I've had a Spoon sway for at least 7 months and I've been reluctant to tackle this. Will definitely do it soon now.

Torque specs would be nice. Especially for the subframe. I had it written down somewhere but can't find it right now.

 

Thanks.

Torque specs are a great addition. But I don't have proper access to Honda's service manual to confirm them.

Does anyone know where an open source GE8 service manual is online?

 

Thanks. I can already tell that the car has dramatically less under steer. I'm very excited to get to the track in May.

This is a big debate; the belief is that a bigger front sway bar would increase under-steer on the FIT. Have the bar installed in the FIT I can say that is false.

You have to wonder "why would Spoon sell a product that increases under-steer and reduces lap time?". Answer: They wouldn't.

Camber is the key to grip, how ever you achieve it. More grip in the front means less under-steer. A McPherson design (FIT) has more camber when the body is flat. The Double A-arm design (WRX, S2000, 370z...) has more camber when the body rolls.

 

Excellent write up.

I'd thought about getting this but this install guide had put me off lol

We'll wait and see

 

Wow... great DIY.

 

Gosh you are giving me less excuses. If I wasn't done making mods for the year and a bit warmer I would have done it already. Especially because your experience has found that it makes the car more responsive.

Have you done any on ramp speed tests to determine if the numbers (at least peak numbers have improved? Or don't have to brace yourself against the door lol.

Even with the 350F/440R coilovers and a rear sway bar my car still has quite a bit of tilt near peak grip.

That's how I test anyway.

I will look up torque specs when I get home. I have the Honda service manual

 

Hello Everyone,

I'm back! With torque specs!

61 lbf-ft for torque damper bolt which should all be replaced along with nut
69 lbf-ft for all subframe/lower arm attachment bolts .........
40 lbf-ft for front cross member brace stock
21 lbf-ft for steering column
47-55 lbf-ft for lower ball joint (whatever it takes to get the holes lineup above 47.
32 lbf-ft for the steering ball joint

Your Welcome

 

Nice write-up! It looks like the GK is a similar deal. How much of an increase in stress do you foresee on the the link joints and swaybar strut mounts? I'm curious if the stock links and strut mount can handle the stiffer bar. It looks like the kit includes beefed up links from Spoon or are they just mod'd factory style? Your mount on the coilover looks strong but I wonder about some of the struts out there...

Swaybars are game in many autox classes so it would be good to know if the factory strut mount can handle the stiffer bar.

Thanks for posting this.

 

Excellent job!!

 

hello , i came across this thread , i'm speaking to you from the future , got a '19 fit and a brand new blox sway bar i've been reluctant to install since
it it looks like it involves dropping the subframe . my main concern is ,are there any alignment issues you have to deal with ?

 

Yeas you have to drop the subframe to slide the sway bar in. It is involved but not impossible. 3 out of 5 difficulty, but it's a day/ weekend project depending on skill level. Alignment shouldn't be that effected, it is a good idea to have it checked afterwards for peace of mind. but its shouldn't be that far off honestly.

It is possible to do an alignment in your drive way with string, measuring tap, and a level(er). Iv'e been doing alignments for quite some time and I've used some of the most expensive alignment machines. I would do an alignment in my drive way, then bring it to my garage to put it on the Hunter alignment machine and be spot on.This however is very advance.

 

I just tried looking for the front sway bar for my 2009 Honda Fit Sport on the Spoon Sports website and came up empty.

 

Your step by step write up and pictures are far better than all of the manufacturer provided guides that i used when i worked for car dealerships. Hats off to you sir

 

Ah thank you man. I put in some time so I appreciate the nice feedback.