Not that anyone cares but for the .00001% that do, just wanted to put some info out there to summarize some thoughts on power mods for the GK5. My observations are from 1/4 mile testing with somewhere between 150-225 1/4 mile runs. And a LOT of testing with the Torque Pro App.

1) Exhaust: Do this first! For low budget, get an cheap muffler put on from a muffler shop (Ex: Midas, Meineke, etc) that is 2" in diameter. Be sure that the muffler is a 'straight through' muffler. Meaning, you can see through from one end and out the other. At least almost with the bends. Going with 2.5" or over only made my car louder, not faster.

2) Intake! Both a CAI and a Short Ram work well. My advice is to purchase a CAI for great mid range torque. If you want to push your top end (Specifically speaking for CVT people here since your wide open throttle rpm stays at 6krpm+) a Short Ram/CAI is best. Meaning, if somehow you can make your short ram receive cold air, it works GREAT for topend. Increases 1/4 mile time by 2mph. HIGHLY recommended for CVT. Off idle torque and topend is fantastic. Midrange (3500-5500rpm) I have no idea. I hardly ever drive in this range, whether normal driving or racing. On a budget? Remove the water shield piece in the stock intake tract that is right over the grill. This should free up a tad more free flowing air but it wasn't a measurable difference.

3) Purchase lightweight wheels and tires if possible. 1/4 mile times will drop. Suspension reaction is quicker. Stop shorter! Don't neglect tire performance (Dry/Wet Traction, snow performance, loudness, etc). Just compare shopping for the best tires and pick the lightest one. If you are a bit crazier like me, you can purchase a tire diameter slightly smaller than stock for even more acceleration. Do this at your own risk.

Other noteworthy mentions:
1) NST Lightweight pulley. No measurable difference.

2) Larger Throttle Body (Spoon) or Bored Throttle Body (Maxbore). No measurable difference.

3) Larger Maf sensor! I used a 2014 1.8lr maf sensor housing. I don't recommend it however if you are pushing for more performance, see #4

4) Ktuner! More power! Great to work with. Recommended if you want to get more out of what you have. Get your air/fuel ratio tuned, ignition timing, etc. Worked with Speedfactory and they tuned a new maf sensor map for the larger maf sensor. Drove like stock with no issues.

5) Deltacam Custom grinded camshafts! Not Recommended for CVT! No measurable difference in power. Idle and drivability unchanged. Deeper exhaust note and idle. Problem with the CVT is that the rpm can not be raised to take advantage of the camshaft supposed extra power at higher rpm. Manual tranny guys got it lucky but I know of no-one to step up to get this done. I still have the Deltacams (Stage 2 - Aggressive tune) installed. You'd never know it was there.

6) RV6 Cat Pipe (or Cat Delete). Measurable difference in power. Previously used J's Racing Cat Delete but it has no EGR tube on it so check engine light for low EGR flow. RV6 has a cat delete pipe as well as a catted version.

7) 2" B Pipe (J's Racing or other). I still have this installed but noticed no noticeable difference in power at the track . Can't hurt to have matching diameter from cat pipe to muffler though.

8) Myxal Two-Step (Gas Pedal Tap - CVT) If you want to accelerate faster in a CVT, there are two things you can do.
a: Push in on the gas pedal, let off and push in again. Do this 2-4x times while accelerating. It does not matter if are at a dead stop or on the highway. What you will notice is that the rpm needle will jump rpms and get up to top rpm MUCH quicker than simply pressing the gas pedal. I made a video of it to try to explain. See here ~~>
b: You can put your transmission in 'S' mode or even 'L' (Not recommended). I don't drive in either of these mods for acceleration but I do race in the 1/4 mile using 'L'. The car simply accelerates faster in 'L' than in 'S' mode and faster in 'S' mode than in 'D'. I can try to explain why I think it is faster but it is not going to make sense and it doesn't matter. Feel free to test for yourself.

You know these acceleration techniques have to be working if my Fit can get a jump on some Mustangs. In a 130hp, N/A CVT Fit.


Here's some 1/8th mile fun with my Fit against a V6 Mustang.

I'll add more if I think of some but these things are right off the top of my head. Hope this helps someone in the future. I will probably be selling my Fit later this year. The Misses wants a Honda Civic Turbo. Happy wife, happy life.


Don't underestimate what your little GK5 can do. It's fairly light and has a GREAT engine (DOHC). With a simple intake, exhaust and lightweight wheels. Love your GK5. See sig for 1/4 mile time. And remember, this is with a 4 cylinder naturally aspirated CVT. I don't know what the manuals are capable of.

 

Thanks for putting this together. Interested in Ktuner. Do they have an open source platform? or do you have to go to a certified tuner for tweaks to the tune?

What is your estimate in hp and torque gains?

 

According to Ktuner, you can modify your tunes. Ktuner

As for hp/torque -->
2015-2016 Fit ? KTuner, LLC

"Included with this package is Tune 1. Tuned at 1100 feet, stock vehicle. This package also allows you to get e-tuned by a trained dealer."

 

Good stuff, thanks for posting it all in one place. I've been brainstorming a CAI box for a week now, but it's several steps down on the list of projects. Partly inspired by going over your posts of past experiments, though.

 

Here is another little tidbit of information.

If you can manage to make yourself (Or buy.....$$$) some type of ram-air setup and enclose your air filter in a box, it is possible to get your volumetric efficiency over 100%. Doing this, I was able to achieve between 103-105% volumetric efficiency at full throttle.

I tried to make two ram-air setups going into the same box and the volumetric efficiency dropped to 101-103%. One opening going into your filter box with a large cone type filter may be able to do the trick.

 

Well, I liked the cold air box you made over the big cone filter, and I liked the intake scoop TougeMonster got, so I'm going to try and combine them and make a new airbox out of fiberglass. I want an intake scoop with a radius at the mouth, and then expanding gradually into a big airbox- from what I've read with racing cars fast enough to actually get a real ram air effect, if the path opens up, the air slows down, and slower air means higher pressure. Cut a hole in the side for the cone filter/MAF housing, or maybe split the box to hold a stock filter and put a velocity stack on the MAF.

 

Thanks for sharing this Myxalplyx! Definitely helps everyone on here! I only wonder what the addition of the NST Pulley, Deltacam Custom grinded camshafts, and KTuner would yield on top of my current setup as I own the 6MT:

Custom Ram Air Duct, K&N Drop In-filter, Intake Resonator Delete, RV6 Catless DownPipe, HKS Cool Style Exhaust, 12.8lb 15x7.5 +42 wheels, tires could be better (Hankook Ventus 2).

I'll report my findings soon!

 

Very cool! Looking forward to it. Did you get any performance numbers for when your car was completely stock?

 

any updates?

 

I wish I found the time to dyno, but my job has got me working 60 hour weeks the past 2 months, plus im leaving the country for 3 weeks this weekend. Busy busy busy. Thanks for everyones patience!

cheers

 

not really worth it to do a midpipe? i currently have the catted rv6 and a tanabe cbe

 

I stopped short of saying it is not worth it. I didn't notice a noticeable difference in power when I installed it with a different muffler. I then had the J's Racing (And now RV6 catless pipe) installed and noticed a difference. In your case, it may make a noticeable difference because that part would presumably now be a bottleneck. Possibly....

 

I see, good point. Will try it out and update you guys.

 

Heres my dyno graph before the RV6 downpipe.

 

what other power mods you have again? And you have a 6MT too right?

 

nope. Mines CVT. i have a CBE and rv6 downpipe catted and knn air filter panel. Thats all i have in terms of mod

 

What's the difference between the dust and second runs to explain the drop in hp and torque?

 

So does this mean run #2 was your baseline run and run #1 was with your CBE and RV6 pipe? A 16whp difference?

 

Run #1 was just knn filter and tanabe cbe without the rv6 after tunung
run#2 is the same setup before any tuning was done.

I think the figures should be slightly higher with the rv6 catted
Havent gotten the time to dyno it yet

 

Wow! The muffler change (and Knn filter) with tuning was significant. Yes, you will see a difference with the install of the RV6 pipe. Since you have tuning, definitely get a midpipe. If I was keeping the car, I'd probably go with a 2.25" instead of 2".

Good luck on your progress. I was going to say expect a 7-10whp increase with the RV6 pipe but the intake side hasn't been changed significantly. I didn't see a big measurable difference using the HKS panel filter at the track vs stock. Like 1/10-2/10ths difference quicker but I don't report that because you can get that running back to back in changing weather conditions.

Great start though and thanks for sharing dyno info.


BTW: How did you manage to dyno with your CVT? Thought it would be hard to keep it in 'gear' while on the dyno.