Another Oil / Blow-by Catch Can Install - Long Edition :)
#161
dumped out my catch can yesterday, I am only about 5k into my oil change interval (64751 miles on the odo) ..... and 105 ml came out. fluid seemed THIN, more than likely a good amount of it was fuel:
Last edited by evilchargerfan; 08-16-2019 at 12:54 PM.
#162
Catch Can Installed!
OK. Since I believe this is the mother-of-all-catch-can-threads, I am posting here.
I don't have the savvy of some of the posters here, and my mechanic did the installation.
2017 EX, 6 sp MT, just under 6,000 miles on the odometer. I run Amsoil 0-20 and change the oil once a year.
The mechanic decided that the most secure spot was deep down on the side opposite the installation that most others here have done.
I won't be changing the oil until May. I look forward to posting my results and observations then.
I don't have the savvy of some of the posters here, and my mechanic did the installation.
2017 EX, 6 sp MT, just under 6,000 miles on the odometer. I run Amsoil 0-20 and change the oil once a year.
The mechanic decided that the most secure spot was deep down on the side opposite the installation that most others here have done.
I won't be changing the oil until May. I look forward to posting my results and observations then.
#165
Yes, When I do my annual oil change in May, I will empty it and assess the catch can's efficacy. On another note, I swapped out the headlight bulbs for some Sylvanias. Given the relative ease of that, I am now thinking about doing the interior lights.
#166
I am in Indiana. Our temps this time of year range from 0-50 F. This does not exactly apply to people who are in temps 50-120 F.
If you are running the stainless steel scowling pad set up, probably the most efficient system anyone has found so far, and you are in colder temps, you need to be ready for drain intervals of 500-1300. Because the catch-can sits off of the engine it gets very cold, it causes the moisture to condense and we capture WAY more liquids. Probably not much more oil than before, but lots of water probably even more fuel since we are getting the opportunity to condense it.
If you are not into looking after your catch-can set up MUCH more often in colder climates, it might not be ideal that you have one. Just .02 more cents...
Last edited by CyclingFit; 02-18-2020 at 03:21 PM.
#168
Last edited by CyclingFit; 02-18-2020 at 03:32 PM.
#169
I just saw another catch-can installation in the "What did you do....today" thread and since I have been lurking once again, I thought I would give an important update....
I am in Indiana. Our temps this time of year range from 0-50 F. This does not exactly apply to people who are in temps 50-120 F.
If you are running the stainless steel scowling pad set up, probably the most efficient system anyone has found so far, and you are in colder temps, you need to be ready for drain intervals of 500-1300. Because the catch-can sits off of the engine it gets very cold, it causes the moisture to condense and we capture WAY more liquids. Probably not much more oil than before, but lots of water probably even more fuel since we are getting the opportunity to condense it.
If you are not into looking after your catch-can set up MUCH more often in colder climates, it might not be ideal that you have one. Just .02 more cents...
I am in Indiana. Our temps this time of year range from 0-50 F. This does not exactly apply to people who are in temps 50-120 F.
If you are running the stainless steel scowling pad set up, probably the most efficient system anyone has found so far, and you are in colder temps, you need to be ready for drain intervals of 500-1300. Because the catch-can sits off of the engine it gets very cold, it causes the moisture to condense and we capture WAY more liquids. Probably not much more oil than before, but lots of water probably even more fuel since we are getting the opportunity to condense it.
If you are not into looking after your catch-can set up MUCH more often in colder climates, it might not be ideal that you have one. Just .02 more cents...
I too have noticed that the catch can was more filled in this last oil change. My car is garaged, but the temp for January was 30-40s and rainy, very little to no snow. Crazy for Connecticut. anyways I dont do the steel wool mod, just the catch can as it is. So far no issues. Glad it is doing its job.
Catch cans work, and the reason they don't put them on cars is a stupid one, because its hard enough to get people to change their oil as it is. For most of us forum members and gearheads alike, we dont mind the extra task of cleaning out the catch can, especially if it means less problems with the engine later. Maybe at some point in the future the newer gen fit engines will have both DFI and PFI to prevent the need for catch cans at all!
#170
I thought these days you just checked battery water levels in your golf cart???? LOLOLOL. I kid I kid. Congrats! Thank you for adding to this temperature discussion. I drew my line based off of where I thought your temps fell and where mine begin in these winter months and I didn't realize you were experiencing the cool weather condensing. Would you draw a line on where you think these become a little higher maintenance? I guess I felt sub-50 degrees.... Thoughts?
I roll with the punches. If low temps mean more action required on my end... so be it. Its very little effort (imo) to keep that oil (and possibly other fluids) out of my intake mani
I wish there was a sweet way to automate this task. some sort of "smart / app enabled" way of dumping the catch can (intoa proper container of course)
#171
I roll with the punches. If low temps mean more action required on my end... so be it. Its very little effort (imo) to keep that oil (and possibly other fluids) out of my intake mani
I wish there was a sweet way to automate this task. some sort of "smart / app enabled" way of dumping the catch can (intoa proper container of course)
I wish there was a sweet way to automate this task. some sort of "smart / app enabled" way of dumping the catch can (intoa proper container of course)
#172
It certainly would not be hard to tap the bottom of the can and put in a fitting. Then run a hose straight down with a small valve on the bottom for draining. Or, run the hose to a remote location where there is a larger container that can hold 7,000+ miles of catch can 'stuff.' I actually really like this idea now that the idea is coming out.
Some catch cans already come with such a drain at the bottom. While more convenient, I doubt the sludge stuff would drain very well if at all. At some point the cup/bowl would need to be unscrewed and cleaned thoroughly.
I like the idea too, but seems too much effort to retrofit one on a can that doesn't have it already. Certainly has not stopped others from innovating on the DIY side of things!
#173
It certainly would not be hard to tap the bottom of the can and put in a fitting. Then run a hose straight down with a small valve on the bottom for draining. Or, run the hose to a remote location where there is a larger container that can hold 7,000+ miles of catch can 'stuff.' I actually really like this idea now that the idea is coming out.
#174
The below are photos of my intake valves after 60,000km.
I have a ADD W1 V3 can with steel scouring balls installed.
Can is installed at around 15,000km.
I also use CRC Intake valve cleaner every oil change starting from 20,000km.
I have a ADD W1 V3 can with steel scouring balls installed.
Can is installed at around 15,000km.
I also use CRC Intake valve cleaner every oil change starting from 20,000km.
#175
It seems that even with the catch can, you have still built up a lot of gunk on the back of the valves. You really don't need to worry about using valve cleaner because the car does not inject fuel onto the backside of the valve. Thanks so much for the pictures!
#176
The best option is to vent the oil vapours to the atmosphere if really serious about preventing carbon buildup on the intake valves.
#177
I guess as long as the PCV and EGR systems are not disabled, carbon buildup is inevitable. You can slow it down, but it'll definitely come.
The best option is to vent the oil vapours to the atmosphere if really serious about preventing carbon buildup on the intake valves.
The best option is to vent the oil vapours to the atmosphere if really serious about preventing carbon buildup on the intake valves.
I am planning to add a catch can to my GK5 Jazz, just haven't made up my mind yet which is the best quality catch can. In any case I would like to avoid Chinese products. Any suggestions?
#178
That is exactly how it is. Any crankcase ventilation vapor or exhaust gas in engine's intake side is not doing any good for the engine, but it's required by regulations. In old days we used to blow the ventilation towards the hot exhaust pipe to let it burn outside the engine. In vehicles which are not tortured with emission regulations this solution is still used.
I am planning to add a catch can to my GK5 Jazz, just haven't made up my mind yet which is the best quality catch can. In any case I would like to avoid Chinese products. Any suggestions?
I am planning to add a catch can to my GK5 Jazz, just haven't made up my mind yet which is the best quality catch can. In any case I would like to avoid Chinese products. Any suggestions?
I'm using the ADD W1 version 3 with steel wool stuffed in the can.
#179
https://www.addw1.com/products/baffl...onfiguration-1
I'm using the ADD W1 version 3 with steel wool stuffed in the can.
I'm using the ADD W1 version 3 with steel wool stuffed in the can.
Edit: Additional questions. From the picures it looks like the mounting bracket can be re-positioned also to enable side mounting. Is the protruding round tap on outlet side of the top re-placeable to other screw positions?
I have to ponder what would be the warmest feasible mounting location to avoid excessive water condensating in the can during winter months. Too bad exhaust side of the engine is so awkward to reach.
Last edited by TnTkr; 09-12-2020 at 04:10 AM.
#180
So can you recommend it as good build and design quality? Connections and the bowl tight and easy to empty?
Edit: Additional questions. From the picures it looks like the mounting bracket can be re-positioned also to enable side mounting. Is the protruding round tap on outlet side of the top re-placeable to other screw positions?
I have to ponder what would be the warmest feasible mounting location to avoid excessive water condensating in the can during winter months. Too bad exhaust side of the engine is so awkward to reach.
Edit: Additional questions. From the picures it looks like the mounting bracket can be re-positioned also to enable side mounting. Is the protruding round tap on outlet side of the top re-placeable to other screw positions?
I have to ponder what would be the warmest feasible mounting location to avoid excessive water condensating in the can during winter months. Too bad exhaust side of the engine is so awkward to reach.
The bracket can be repositioned. I mounted my can as attached photo :