Hi Superfly


The reason why I said that a cap won't work without getting into technical term is because I already have a 2 farad cap installed in my car and the shutoff still happens.

 

i wonder if your problem will occur if u run an OEM ballast.

 

Ah, that sucks. There goes that idea.

 

i get the same almost stalling issue with my DDM tuning PNP kit. i dont leave the car in auto-mode (i keep it in the off position, unless i turn them on). i think it is also grounding related. the almost stalling part happens probably 80% of the time. it's been raining in NJ the last couple days, and oddly it didnt do it at all during this time. wonder if that affects anything to the electrical system?

your headlamps look great payluder. did you use the LED rings as DRLs? or is that light naturally shining through the apollo 2.0 shrouds?

also, just to confirm - you are using D2S projectors (O lens or X lens) with Apollo 2.0 flat shrouds, right?

 

hmm this stalling issue make me think twice about doing HID.
the fit does have a very tiny battery

 

Hello Tofu Im using the O lens ds2 with apollo 2.0 flat shrouds with 100mm trs LED ring. I ran a ACC wire from the fuse box under the driver steering to the engine so when I start the car the ring acts like DRL. I am planning to redo my retro to change the shroud to chrome just for contrast.

 

Awesome, thanks for all the this info

 

Just read this thread and see that payluder and super fly has the engine shutting off problem.

Blows my mind but I have the 35w motocontrol bixenon and auto on the stalk doesn't affect my engine at all. I do have a battery tender and use it though. Not sure if that's why I never had a engine shutting off issue

 

Noripwr I have a question about your ballast install. Did you bolt your ballast to your car chassis or zip tie it? I actually had a aftermarket 55watt h4 hid kit installed on my car before I did the retro and I didn't have a problem. The only difference with my install was on the eBay hid I use zip tie and didn't let the ballast touch the chassis but with the retro source ballast I bolt the ballast onto the chassis since I had a lot of space to work on with the headlights and bumper being off. I did a search on google and found out a lot of people have this issue and Im learning towards something to do with my ballast. I'll be calling retro source again tomorrow to see what they can do for me.

 

I actually have both ballasts bolted to the chassis, but the bulk of them kinda dangle off not really touching the chassis. You know that metal rectangle that attaches to the ballast ? I have it screwed onto the ballast and then bolted that to the chassis. I assume everyone does that, but where I have it bolted the ballast is facing away the chassis under the bumper. I was thinking about rain water issues so I took forever to figure where I wanted to mount the ballasts. I believe I have the grounds bolted to that one bolt with all the grounds going to it.

 

On a side note payluder, you have the O lens with the flat shrouds correct? I was under the impression that the flat shrouds go with the X lens because they're smaller than the O lens. Doesn't that mean the flat shrouds cover more of th front of the O lens?

You also said you get that rounded off slope, so I wonder if it's cuz of the shroud.

 

Hi Noripwr after reading your reply about the battery tender comment I remember I have a 12v socket volt tester so I plugged it in and drove around. To my surprise the fit doesn't give a constant power above 14v. This is very concerning, to me it looks like the alternator engage and disengage because the tester show volt drops from 14 to 12volts during driving. When the tester shows 14.15 volts I turned on the HID and no stalling. I bet if I did that when the volt shows 12volt it will make my car stall. The tester also showed my battery wasn't full so I went ahead and bought a battery tender. I hope this will help my issue because I wasted a lot of time pulling the entire kit out and restalling it testing all connection and ground.


About the shrouds I do have the O lens and Im sure the slope has nothing to do with the shrouds because when I had the projector mounted and testing for _____/ _____/ to make it straight I didn't have the shrouds on and notice the slope without the shroud. Now I bought the CBI bulbs but didn't install it yet Im just really disappointed about the car stalling. I hope keeping the battery fully charge will help.

Now after the battery is fully charge and everything else is good like ground and connections and this still happens I think it might be a faulty ballast. Thats the only other thing I see when I search on google about this problem.

 

Yea I notice the alternator issue when I come to stops and go with my AC on, so I bought the battery tender knowing id probably need to top off the Fit . It probably is an issue with the battery.

 

i already looked and i could not find an Optima battery small enough to fit. only options look to be Braille and Odyssey

edit: Optima yellowtop D51R (meant for Civics) may be small enough to fit. found a picture of one mounted in a GE8. i'd prefer to get a redtop, though

 

wtf looks so good, why didn't they just put stock LED ><

 

The Apollo is such a good shroud here. Good work!

(Andrew @ TRS)

 

I'm sorry but I don't know why anyone considers HID. I'm going to do LED, unless i'm missing something here.

 

Can I ask why you did it yourself and didn't get a kit? It looks amazing but o don't have the skill to do a job like that. Are there kits available?

 

LEDs are not at the same level output as Projector HIDs.

There are no headlights to be bought that already have projector's built in to buy. If there were any aftermarket ones, the projectors they use are not the best. You are best off buying component sets from TheRetrofitSource.com and putting it together yourself or you can pay someone to do it for you.

 

I found the solution to the stalling issue with HIDs. Move your driver side ballast AWAY from the ECU. I relocated mine to the front side of the hood in front of the battery and no more stalling out issues.

When the ballast ignites, it emits a frequency that scrambles the ECU.