Has anyone had any issues with their 2019 Fit?
If the paddle shifters haven't worked correctly since day one, might be a lemon law issue because you now have a warranty defect. This varies by state, but if it bothers you enough and Honda says rotsa ruck, it's an excellent way to dispose of your vehicle and get paid the original purchase price in return. Typically the manufacturer doesn't want the car back and will fight you. That wouldn't stop me!
Starting with the original thread's question:
I have a 2017 LX 6speed, and am just over the 80k mile mark. Regular oil, oil filter (every 5k miles, never below 50% oil life on the dash), and engine air filter changes (every 20k miles). Fed 93 octane (US rated at pump) gas ONLY. Driven ~80%+ highway miles. First 5kmiles treated as a break in period.
zero issue: no valve coking, no ignition problems, no injector issues, and never any dash warning lights (aside from the tpms during the cold season change). The factory brake pads are even still good..
The car remains fun to drive and still drives like new.
I think the consensus is: there was different management following the 2015 woahs and the leading run of 2016 models may have been suffering from the same gremlins.
That's impressive....
I have a 2017 LX 6speed, and am just over the 80k mile mark. Regular oil, oil filter (every 5k miles, never below 50% oil life on the dash), and engine air filter changes (every 20k miles). Fed 93 octane (US rated at pump) gas ONLY. Driven ~80%+ highway miles. First 5kmiles treated as a break in period.
zero issue: no valve coking, no ignition problems, no injector issues, and never any dash warning lights (aside from the tpms during the cold season change). The factory brake pads are even still good..
The car remains fun to drive and still drives like new.
That's impressive....
Starting with the original thread's question:
I have a 2017 LX 6speed, and am just over the 80k mile mark. Regular oil, oil filter (every 5k miles, never below 50% oil life on the dash), and engine air filter changes (every 20k miles). Fed 93 octane (US rated at pump) gas ONLY. Driven ~80%+ highway miles. First 5kmiles treated as a break in period.
zero issue: no valve coking, no ignition problems, no injector issues, and never any dash warning lights (aside from the tpms during the cold season change). The factory brake pads are even still good..
The car remains fun to drive and still drives like new.
I think the consensus is: there was different management following the 2015 woahs and the leading run of 2016 models may have been suffering from the same gremlins.
That's impressive....
I have a 2017 LX 6speed, and am just over the 80k mile mark. Regular oil, oil filter (every 5k miles, never below 50% oil life on the dash), and engine air filter changes (every 20k miles). Fed 93 octane (US rated at pump) gas ONLY. Driven ~80%+ highway miles. First 5kmiles treated as a break in period.
zero issue: no valve coking, no ignition problems, no injector issues, and never any dash warning lights (aside from the tpms during the cold season change). The factory brake pads are even still good..
The car remains fun to drive and still drives like new.
I think the consensus is: there was different management following the 2015 woahs and the leading run of 2016 models may have been suffering from the same gremlins.
That's impressive....
A car like the KC2 is tuned for 93 octane. If for whatever reason you find yourself having to use 87 octane, then at the first sign of detonation the car adjusts the valve timing, ignition spark and mixture repeatedly until there is no pinging. At that point you have de-tuned your gasoline motor down to about 300 HP. This detuning does not affect how the 12-volt system coordinates with the 250-volt system, and you will still have access to all 119 HP associated with the three electric motors.
A car like the GK5 is tuned for 87 octane. It does not have the capacity to advance timing, alter fuel mixture and cam timing to get more HP. Any effect you believe you feel is psychological.
:-)
If a company like Hondata ever release a plug-in chip that will take advantage of 93 octane, then you'll gain maybe 8 HP without any risk to anything other than emissions in localities that require emissions testing.
A car like the GK5 is tuned for 87 octane. It does not have the capacity to advance timing, alter fuel mixture and cam timing to get more HP. Any effect you believe you feel is psychological.
:-)
If a company like Hondata ever release a plug-in chip that will take advantage of 93 octane, then you'll gain maybe 8 HP without any risk to anything other than emissions in localities that require emissions testing.
you tell them George!
Uhmm.. i think maf sensors detect if air is dense of oxygen or not like in high altitude or very hot temperature with low oxygen air and ecu adjusts and you see the difference in gas mileage. I think exhaust sensor senses oxygen content and also adjust fuel to make oxygen burning efficient.ecu tuners also advise customer cars to use high octane fuel when brought to their shop as car used in races experience predetonation of fuel due to high temp aso higher octane will benefit optimum tuning
and i think at high rpm driving like in freeway the high octane fuels will give some benefits against predetonation of fuel .an article is uploaded online by fuel company showing results of their test showing better fuel economy of their higher octane fuel
and i think at high rpm driving like in freeway the high octane fuels will give some benefits against predetonation of fuel .an article is uploaded online by fuel company showing results of their test showing better fuel economy of their higher octane fuel
Last edited by Rap SantOs; Dec 12, 2019 at 06:55 PM.
I am not going to get into an Internet contest with anybody, but I stand by the answer that I gave:
The GK5 ECU gets no appreciable benefit from 93 octane fuel.
The car is designed for 87 octane and it does not have the capability to get more HP out of 93 octane.
93 octane is a waste of money.
The GK5 ECU gets no appreciable benefit from 93 octane fuel.
The car is designed for 87 octane and it does not have the capability to get more HP out of 93 octane.
93 octane is a waste of money.
That's a far cry from thinking that 93 octane will cause the car to advance spark and progressively alter fuel mixture and cam timing to get more HP.
As delivered OEM, even the NA2 won't alter its programming for better than 91 US pump octane.
This is my first visit to this forum and my first post. I own a '19 Fit I purchased new about a year and a half ago (yes, I bought the '19 in July of '18.) I had been on the lookout for a six-speed manual (not easy to find nowadays) and this one popped up in my search. I've put a good many miles on it, just turned over 25K, the vast majority of those highway miles, and on those multi-hundred-mile trips, I've never posted anything less than 38 mpg on average, and have regularly topped 40. The thing's been flawless, and it's on track to dethrone my late, great '05 Civic as the best car I've ever owned. The only problem I've had, and it's not cost me any money, is a hinky tire-pressure sensor. The first time it came on, I stopped and checked my tires, and they were all perfect. Took it to the dealer and the guy there showed me how to deactivate the light. It's come on a couple of times since, and just like before, the tires have been fine.
Wish I'd have read the actual posts first and replied to them. 
You can read my post above, but I bought my '19 early and have driven it a lot, and it looks like it will be as bulletproof as my previous Honda.
Reading through, now, does bring up a couple of other issues I've noticed. Windows-down driving can be a nightmare of buffeting. The power windows are noisy, not in the motors but where the glass meets the seal. As someone noted above, the lowest USB in the central console is weak and just hinky. I've had some weird iPhone artifacts when my iPhone connects with the car, though I think some of the earlier issues may have been operator error or the product of an imperfect setup/connection cycle. And while everybody who rides with me thinks that cupholder up in the left corner of the cockpit is cool, if you're running the AC, hot beverages are screwed, and if you're running the heat, cold beverages are screwed.
Still love the car. But nothing's perfect.

You can read my post above, but I bought my '19 early and have driven it a lot, and it looks like it will be as bulletproof as my previous Honda.
Reading through, now, does bring up a couple of other issues I've noticed. Windows-down driving can be a nightmare of buffeting. The power windows are noisy, not in the motors but where the glass meets the seal. As someone noted above, the lowest USB in the central console is weak and just hinky. I've had some weird iPhone artifacts when my iPhone connects with the car, though I think some of the earlier issues may have been operator error or the product of an imperfect setup/connection cycle. And while everybody who rides with me thinks that cupholder up in the left corner of the cockpit is cool, if you're running the AC, hot beverages are screwed, and if you're running the heat, cold beverages are screwed.
Still love the car. But nothing's perfect.
I had odd TPMS errors when it got cold for the first time. I filled the tires up to the pressure on the door, performed the one-push TPMS recal and minutes later the light came back on. Search for the TPMS RESET procedure which is 3 recals = RESET. Here's one link: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-...-question.html.
I replaced them with Altimax rt43s and still get similar gas mileage. Even went to larger 205/50/16.
Mine were Bridgestones, and the Michelins do everything better...at a price.
Just looked at my last two fill-ups and I did 42.477 and 42.212. These are calculated versus looking at the computer.


