2018 Fit LX, 38200 miles

Two weeks ago four of my dash lights went on (power steering, hill assist, TPMS, check engine light) after I had been away for 2.5 weeks. I assumed it was an error code from a low voltage battery but when I took it to the dealership their diagnostic showed extreme carbon buildup in my engine, so bad that they have to replace the head, service all the cylinders and Replace the fuel injectors. Fortunately it’s all covered under the Powertrain warranty and fuel injectors are covered in California under another law about emissions and new cars, but otherwise the shop told me it would easily be a $6000+ job.

I usually fill up with regular unleaded and get my oil changed at the dealership around 15-20% left on the computer.

I absolutely love my Fit, but after my problem and reading others’ experiences about misfires and failing injectors because of the direct injection ... I’m wondering if I should cut my losses, trade her in and get a different car altogether??? Is this a design flaw that will always cause problems? Thoughts?

Recommendations on other small hatchbacks? Is the HRV also problematic? I just can’t imagine my life without a car with the magic seats!!

 

Welcome, and sorry to hear about your Fit.

The fuel injector / rail assembly design has been a question mark from 2015 onward. All the 2015s and a few thousand early 2016s (mine included) have a TSB for injector replacement if they fail under warranty. After warranty, you're on your own.

Given the number of 2018+ owners still reporting injector problems, Honda hasn't figured this out yet. 38K and severe carbon buildup don't go together unless something is seriously wrong.

I'm starting to think that all the GK5s are suspect, and this is a dealbreaker. Nobody wants to buy into a vehicle that stands a good chance of a $2-3K repair at any time. I certainly don't.

 

This is kinda scary, is there any way of checking to see if this is happening on our own without taking the head off? Can we just look at the spark plugs or intake to get an idea of how the injectors might be doing?

Does going aftermarket injectors help this at all?

 

Carbon build up is easily cleaned up by walnut blasting the intake ports on the engine.
This is a common issue on any direct injection engine.
Most people with direct injection engines (bmw, vw, audi, etc) have to do this every 50k or so.
You can learn more about it here: https://blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-carb...valves-mk7-gti
This shouldn't have been anywhere even CLOSE to 6k dollars (even with a full new engine). Not sure if that's just scare tactics from the shop or what.

 

Carbon buildup at 38K miles is virtually unheard of. Many people are now pushing 100K without this problem. Either there was something seriously wrong with your car, or there was something seriously wrong with how you were driving it, the gas you were using, etc. If I had to take a wild guess though I'd probably go with defective fuel injectors.

 

Did you use Top Tier fuel since day 1 ? Or use a fuel system treatment such as Techron , Redline or others on occasion ? Owners manual states to use Top Tier gasoline . Sorry to see of your dilemma . Best of luck .

 

I always fill with either 87 or 89 at my local shell, arco, or 76. Should I be using 91 gas?

In terms of driving, I live in LA, so there is considerable stop and go, but I also do quite a bit of highway driving and I like driving fast, so while I might not be redlining it all the time, it occasionally gets there.

Is there a way I should be driving the car to cut down on carbon buildup?

Thanks for the input everyone!

 

Good quality fuel is #1 important, I don't think you were doing anything wrong, however, I think there were more issues with your car than just carbon buildup.
The fact that they had to replace fuel injectors, along with other items tells me that other things were wrong.
They would not have spent the money/time replacing those parts when a simple walnut blasting would have been enough.

 

Honestly, just how you're posting I would get rid of the car because you probably will never trust it.

On the flip side I've got a 2015 with 92k miles on it. I put the cheapest gas I can find. I don't bother finding top tier, what's cheapest and convenient is the top priority for me. It really does sound like there were other issues with your fit because there are thousands of cars out there without carbon build up.

 

Got my car back last night, here are the service notes for anyone curious. Thanks for the input everybody!

 

This and other issues with the 3rd generation FIT are why we decided not to buy one . Did test drive one and liked it . Display showed 44 m.p.g. , 50/50 driving . Still not enough to purchase it . A shame .

 

Those are Top Tier . 91 wouldn't hurt . I use Top Tier VALERO 90 non E most of the time . Keep us informed .

 

[QUOTE=2Rismo2;1450096]..........On the flip side I've got a 2015 with 92k miles on it........................... there are thousands of cars out there without carbon build up./QUOTE]

Members on this forum have to take note that our community does not represent the vast majority of GK owners. That said there are problems we all gladly share but we should be wary in making definitive conclusions. At 50k (1/2 of 2R2's mileage), have likewise had trouble free experience so far. Use Costco 87 and she keeps puttering along smoothly.
Doing my own maintenance assures the quality of petroleum products used and the procedures are properly done.
e.g. to date the engine splash guard remains intact and the original clips and grommets still exist.

 

I hate direct injection. Tell me why I'm wrong to do so. Seriously, what am I missing?

 

6 grand ? no way , you did not pay 6 k

 

welcome to direct injection. we all have it in the gk5 family. sell the car or ride it out until something catastrophic happens.
ive been tempted to sell mine. I just turned 20k in my fit sport 2018.

 

So they did not replace the cylinder head after all. I don't see it on the parts list from your invoice photo. Cyl head replacement was a recommendation only. All they did was exactly what they did on my 2015: injectors and some related misc parts.

I keep on getting to the same conclusion, which is anything with direct injection requires top tier *premium* fuel. All that does is reduce the chances of getting random misfires. Yes, some people get away with many miles and 87 cheapest they can find... but in those cases it's likely no short trips. I owned two fits, one since new, other with the cvt and I had engine issues with one (injectors) and emissions issues with other (converter clogged). I am so glad I got rid of both. Rolling on port injection in my current vehicle .... on the cheapest 87 money can buy. 35k miles on my new car and no issues.

An example is the acura ilx. It comes with the 2.4 liter naturally aspirated direct injection motor .... and requires premium 91 fuel. Why can't you just put 87 given no turbo? Because premium brand ... that's why. That motor can run on 87 all day long just like the fit.

Combine direct injection and add a turbo ... and with manufacturers still recommending 87.... they gotta be crazy (introduce LSPI issues here, for another discussion)

 

I have a 2018 Fit Sport. I've been researching direct injection carbon buildup since I bought the car. Here are my conclusions, for what they are worth. If you disagree, that's fine, but please let's not have a flame war. This is what I do, and it seems to be working great for me.

1) Install a good quality oil catch can. There is a lot of evidence (including at least one SAE study) indicating that in GDI engines it is oil-laden crankcase vapors baking onto the intake valves that causes the carbon buildup. A good-quality oil catch can will reduce (but not eliminate) this issue. I would be happy to share information on the brand of catch can I installed on my car when it was new, but I don't want to make this post seem like a plug for a particular project. There are several brands of good catch cans on the market, as well as lots of junk.

2) Always use a full synthetic oil, preferably one with a low NOACK value, to reduce oil vapors in the crankcase. Many people will also say you should change your oil at no more than 6,000 miles, regardless of the Maintenance Minder. I haven't made up my mind about this one yet, but I will admit that I always change the oil before the MM says it is time to do so.

3) Always use Top Tier fuel if you can. This won't address the intake valve deposit issue, since in a GDI engine the fuel never contacts the valves, but it will help keep the injectors and combustion chamber freer of carbon.

I hope this is helpful

 

I plan to add this to my annual service or 10K miles or whatever happens first:
Planning to do oil changes every 5K miles...
Best,
-Jedz

 

I’ve talked to one GDI expert (and engine builder) who strongly advises against such chemical cleaners. He told me that they can dislodge small bits of the hard deposits rather than dissolving everything. Those little pieces can then scratch and damage cylinder walls. He said he’s seen it happen. His advice was what I passed along in my first post. If your car is new, maybe start using the GDI cleaner at 5K, before the deposits have built up too much, and then every 5K thereafter?

I’ve decided not to use the chemicals. I suspect that the catch can and synthetic oil will greatly slow the deposits, but eventually (80K?) I will need to have the intake valves walnut blasted.