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Clutch delay valve delete. Has anyone done this to their fit?
I drive a 2015 with the manual trans and I don’t like the feel of the clutch delay valve. It’s like you can never learn and develop muscle memory to where the biting point of the clutch is and it doesn’t feel like the clutch pedal is connected to the flywheel at all.
I read somewhere that you could replace the clutch with the one from a Honda Civic 01-05 but I can’t find any info.
has anyone of you managed to delete the clutch delay valve and how did you do it?
Replacing the clutch delay switch on an E46 BMW was as easy as replacing it with a similar part without the switching mechanism. I have a CVT so I don't know. But, it's been discussed in this forum before. https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/gene...ve-delete.html
Last edited by wasserball; Mar 1, 2021 at 07:30 PM.
i've never heard of a clutch delay valve , is that what makes the clutch so tricky ? i've been driving a stick since '77 and have
never had so much trouble with a clutch as with this fit . i went 195k with my '90 civic and 240k with my '02 SI , both with the
original clutches . this one is spooky , seems like it takes up too early
Yeah the CDV can be a pain at times...seems to be most hindersome when trying to accelerate rapidly and shift at high rpm...am kinda gotten used to it at slower rpm shifts........ What exact purpose does the thing, have owned many manuals over the years , this my first with delay valve. Seems quite useless to me, honestly
it's hard to be consistent with this clutch , just doesn't feel natural , makes it feel like something that's going to wear out prematurely
the purpose of the valve is to delay the rpm from going from high point (example 5000 rpm) to low point (2000 rpm) when you engage the clutch to change gear. Reducing the rate of rpm suppose to reduce emission from the exhaust.
Did mine yesterday and after a good bleed i felt like I was driving an EG or EK civic... It is s completely different car....the downside if it has to be called that way, was having to drill the firewall with a ½ inch drill to be able to fit the EM2 CMC... Other than that....
I RECOMMEND EVERY GK OWNER THIS MOD.... Since i found that my oem CMC was loosing pressure and hence the jerkiness i was experiencing
What have to be drilled (i used a ½ inch drill bit)are the two holes for the EM2 CMC to fit since those are a bit more separated than the OEM one... Other than that... Is easy as the suply line and the pressure side are identical....
The only catch is that I removed the brake booster line FROM THE BOoSTER(just pull it... It comes out easy) and the bracket that holds the clutch line to be able to get the CMC out and be able to exchange the lines
The new EM2 brought a grase to be used when installing the fitting.... USE IT!!
Take the "U pin" out carefully wih a flat screwdriver and then pull it out with a plier ...
Thats the U pin... Pull it out and trasnfer it completely... Dont unscrew it.. Its not necessary... And when installing on the new one... There is where the grease lubricant that came with the new EM2 CMC is used....
NOTE: thats not my pic....
And also the whole line DOESN'T HAVE TO BE TAKEN OUT....
Did mine couole of days ago and after a good bleed i felt like I was driving an EG or EK civic... It is s completely different car....the downside if it has to be called that way, was having to drill the firewall with a ½ inch drill to be able to fit the EM2 CMC... Other than that....
I RECOMMEND EVERY GK OWNER THIS MOD.... Since i found that my oem CMC was loosing pressure and hence the jerkiness i was experiencing
What have to be drilled (i used a ½ inch drill bit)are the two holes for the EM2 CMC to fit since those are a bit more separated than the OEM one... Other than that... Is easy as the suply line and the pressure side are identical....
The only catch is that I removed the brake booster line FROM THE BOoSTER(just pull it... It comes out easy) and the bracket that holds the clutch line to be able to get the CMC out and be able to exchange the lines
The new EM2 brought a grase to be used when installing the fitting.... USE IT!!
Take the "U pin" out carefully wih a flat screwdriver and then pull it out with a plier ...
Thats the U pin... Pull it out and trasnfer it completely... Dont unscrew it.. Its not necessary... And when installing on the new one... There is where the grease lubricant that came with the new EM2 CMC is used....
NOTE: thats not my pic....
And also the whole line DOESN'T HAVE TO BE TAKEN OUT....
I’m in the process of removing the clutch delay valve from my 2009 Fit (GE8). On the 2009 the CDV is on the master cylinder. I bought a clutch master cylinder for the 2007 Fit (GD3) which does not have a CDV on the master cylinder. The master cylinders are similar enough that I only had to attach the reservoir and hose from the 2009 to the 2007. I also had to switch the hard fittings because the 2007 has a larger diameter. Please see attached pics. Mounting bolts are 1/8” farther apart on the 2007 clutch MC. I’ll adjust the 2007 clutch pedal attachment so that I won’t have to adjust anything with the new master cylinder.
If you do a clutch MC switch, pull everything out at once to save yourself a mess. I unbolted the clutch MC, the reservoir and the hard mount for the MC hardline. The last thing I did was disconnect the MC from the hardline after making sure the reservoir was below hardline so no fluid spilled.
I have a 2017 Fit with a manual transmission. I've never noticed any problem with high RPM shifting (just under the red line), or any other shifting. The only problem I've had is it is occasionally hard to shift into gear at a stop. What are the symptoms of this problem? My last car that had a manual was an 86 Mustang GT.
I have a 2017 Fit with a manual transmission. I've never noticed any problem with high RPM shifting (just under the red line), or any other shifting. The only problem I've had is it is occasionally hard to shift into gear at a stop. What are the symptoms of this problem? My last car that had a manual was an 86 Mustang GT.
Dave
Very common issue. My 2016 does the same thing.
I've upgraded to Royal Purple fluid (which has helped the shifting in general) but getting into first at a stop is a regular issue.
One option has been to blip the throttle while depressing the clutch and applying pressure to the shifter.
My personal preference is to lift off the brake (allowing the car to roll a few inches) while applying pressure to the shifter. It'll "plop" into gear with ease.
I do a lot of spirited back roads driving. Never had any issue shifting at high RPM including at or near redline.
Then again I think the previous owner may have already done the CDV delete. I've gotten a few GK5 6 speeds at work recently and they all have much lighter feeling clutches than my personal 2015. Granted one of the first things I did when I got mine was to flush the clutch system (I always do it every 2 years, the same time as the brake fluid. They share the same reservoir as the brake fluid on GK5s, so I can use the power bleeder we typically use for brake flushes), but even after doing it on customer cars, it's still a bit lighter.
I may have found a bolt-in solution that doesn't require drilling out the holes in the firewall. Apparently the JDM EM2 clutch MC has a mounting stud spacing of 75mm. The USDM EM2 CMC has 80mm spacing. It is "clocked" the same way as the USDM cars, so should be no problem with mounting and matching up hoses and lines.
JDM part number is 46920-S5A-J06 (the newest part number is -J07, and there are previous versions as well)
If anyone has an EM2 CMC that they can measure we can confirm. Then just have to find one at a reasonable price and I'll gladly jump in and try this.
Very common issue. My 2016 does the same thing.
I've upgraded to Royal Purple fluid (which has helped the shifting in general) but getting into first at a stop is a regular issue.
One option has been to blip the throttle while depressing the clutch and applying pressure to the shifter.
My personal preference is to lift off the brake (allowing the car to roll a few inches) while applying pressure to the shifter. It'll "plop" into gear with ease.
Sounds like something I've been doing, although it is not necessarily the best option on a hill with the guy behind you hugging your bumper! Then I tap the throttle while still holding the break with a little some with a little bit of clutch to click it into gear. Kind of a stationary heel/toe. Still perfecting the technique.
Last edited by Crazy Dave; May 18, 2023 at 08:04 AM.
Go to this thread..... It has been done... And I believe the EM and "JDM" EM someone stated here are the same.... And the drilling part is just to widen the stud bolts just a very little bit ..... So it's almost unnoticeable.... The CMC centers itself with the center part.... So there's no problem....
