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I have 2015 CVT EX-L 174K. When I turn off the A/C it run very smooth BUT When I turn on the A/C the engine seem like a jerk when I try to stop at stop sign and when I stop the red light traffic the engine is shaking and SHUT DOWN ! but the radio and light still turn on. I changed the belt tensioner already but it still happen. anyone have any idea where is the problem and how can I fix that.
this sign is show up when the engine was shut down
when was the last time you replaced the coils and spark plugs? 174K miles!
The only vehicle I've ever had that died at a stop light when the A/C came on was due to the compressor locking up. You should be able to test that simply by revving the engine up to about 2000 RPM with the A/C off, and then turn on the A/C. If the compressor is locked up, you should hear the A/C belt start squealing like mad as it's being dragged over the A/C pulley which is refusing to spin. If the compressor is locked up, but the compressor clutch is working, then it should spin freely when your A/C is switched off, but turning the A/C on will engage the clutch, which will then stop spinning due to the seized compressor.
when was the last time you replaced the coils and spark plugs? 174K miles!
I just change spark plug but not the coils yet. it’s run better but it still have the same problem with the jerk when I slow down to stop at the stop sign or completely stop
Originally Posted by CajunLanMan
The only vehicle I've ever had that died at a stop light when the A/C came on was due to the compressor locking up. You should be able to test that simply by revving the engine up to about 2000 RPM with the A/C off, and then turn on the A/C. If the compressor is locked up, you should hear the A/C belt start squealing like mad as it's being dragged over the A/C pulley which is refusing to spin. If the compressor is locked up, but the compressor clutch is working, then it should spin freely when your A/C is switched off, but turning the A/C on will engage the clutch, which will then stop spinning due to the seized compressor.
I’ve checked and it’s not lock up at all after I change the spark plug and I test drive for one day and it doesn’t shutdown anymore BUT they still jerking on the transmission when I turn on A/C and I trying to stop.
If you shift to neutral at 10 MPH and then slow down to 0, does it keep running? If yes, it might rule out a transmission or torque converter issue. If no, it's something else.
When you idle in neutral or park with no accessories turned on, is it nice and smooth? If no, something is off with the engine, either bad fuel/fuel delivery, poor airflow, or weak spark. If yes, does it start vibrating a lot when you put in gear, or turn on the AC, or both? If it stays smooth when shifted to gear, but not when the AC is turned on while in neutral or park, then the AC system is causing the problem, not the transmission. If it starts vibrating when you put in gear without turning on the AC, it may be a fuel/air/spark issue but less severe, or the transmission may be the cause. if it only starts vibrating when AC is on and in gear, it's almost guaranteed to be a minor fuel/air/spark issue, and the AC is merely exaggerating it.
It could be failing or dirty fuel injectors, a valve adjustment is needed, bad gasoline, carbon buildup behind the intake valves, faulty or loose spark components (wires, plugs, etc), clogged air filter, dirty or faulty mass airflow sensor, idle air control valve, or a dirty throttle plate. It could even be a clogged cabin air filter causing the issue but that's a longshot.
Does the idle RPM stay above 700, or does it drop close to 500 or 600? My Fit will stall if the RPM drops below 500. Operating temp idle speed is 700-730 RPM. If your tach needle drops too low at crawling speeds or while idling in gear, I'd lean toward the mass air flow sensor, idle air control valve or the throttle plate being the issue. Inspecting and cleaning those parts might help.
Of course it could still be something I haven't thought of.
If it runs shakes and shuts down at idle or low rpm with the AC on, but not with the AC off, it seems pretty obvious to me that there is something wrong with the AC system. No?
Perhaps simply too much refrigerant, making pressure too high.. Perhaps lack of compressor oil, or too much. Perhaps air or moisture got into the system. Perhaps something wrong with the compressor. I would check both the low and high side pressure to see it it is reasonably close to the range of normalcy. Or is the pressure much too much? Too much pressure may cause the problem. Too little pressure would not. No? Is it the AC compressor clutch? Could there condensor be clogged?. Makes no sense to change the sparking plugs or the coils. If there was a problem there, the n the OBD2 would turn on the check engine light and a code reader connected to the port would show a misfire code. Misfires would tend to occur first in only ne cylinder, and then as days and weeks go by, another cylinder would misfire. No? Check the refrigerant pressure.
I just change spark plug but not the coils yet. it’s run better but it still have the same problem with the jerk when I slow down to stop at the stop sign or completely stop
I’ve checked and it’s not lock up at all after I change the spark plug and I test drive for one day and it doesn’t shutdown anymore BUT they still jerking on the transmission when I turn on A/C and I trying to stop.
Changing the coils will make a big difference. Unlike plugs, I know they can be expensive.
If you shift to neutral at 10 MPH and then slow down to 0, does it keep running? If yes, it might rule out a transmission or torque converter issue. If no, it's something else.
When you idle in neutral or park with no accessories turned on, is it nice and smooth? If no, something is off with the engine, either bad fuel/fuel delivery, poor airflow, or weak spark. If yes, does it start vibrating a lot when you put in gear, or turn on the AC, or both? If it stays smooth when shifted to gear, but not when the AC is turned on while in neutral or park, then the AC system is causing the problem, not the transmission. If it starts vibrating when you put in gear without turning on the AC, it may be a fuel/air/spark issue but less severe, or the transmission may be the cause. if it only starts vibrating when AC is on and in gear, it's almost guaranteed to be a minor fuel/air/spark issue, and the AC is merely exaggerating it.
It could be failing or dirty fuel injectors, a valve adjustment is needed, bad gasoline, carbon buildup behind the intake valves, faulty or loose spark components (wires, plugs, etc), clogged air filter, dirty or faulty mass airflow sensor, idle air control valve, or a dirty throttle plate. It could even be a clogged cabin air filter causing the issue but that's a longshot.
Does the idle RPM stay above 700, or does it drop close to 500 or 600? My Fit will stall if the RPM drops below 500. Operating temp idle speed is 700-730 RPM. If your tach needle drops too low at crawling speeds or while idling in gear, I'd lean toward the mass air flow sensor, idle air control valve or the throttle plate being the issue. Inspecting and cleaning those parts might help.
Of course it could still be something I haven't thought of.
If I turn everything off , everything run smooth , gear shift ok and when I turn on a/c and running sometimes the transmission is jerk when the car almost stop and when I push brake on the traffic sometime the engine shake like they don’t have enough power and almost shut down. I try to let the car running a bit forward and after that it can be run normally. when the engine idle or running RPM stay above 700 both of time when I turn on or off a/c. I will go to the shop tomorrow to clean every thing like air throttle or air flow etc.
Originally Posted by nomenclator
If it runs shakes and shuts down at idle or low rpm with the AC on, but not with the AC off, it seems pretty obvious to me that there is something wrong with the AC system. No?
Perhaps simply too much refrigerant, making pressure too high.. Perhaps lack of compressor oil, or too much. Perhaps air or moisture got into the system. Perhaps something wrong with the compressor. I would check both the low and high side pressure to see it it is reasonably close to the range of normalcy. Or is the pressure much too much? Too much pressure may cause the problem. Too little pressure would not. No? Is it the AC compressor clutch? Could there condensor be clogged?. Makes no sense to change the sparking plugs or the coils. If there was a problem there, the n the OBD2 would turn on the check engine light and a code reader connected to the port would show a misfire code. Misfires would tend to occur first in only ne cylinder, and then as days and weeks go by, another cylinder would misfire. No? Check the refrigerant pressure.
engine light is not turn on they just shut down suddenly and everything is still on and when I stop at the traffic sometime the engine almost shut down but RPM is still above 700 not too low to get shutting down. maybe cause of a/c dirty or something dirty I will go to the shop to check tomorrow again
The Honda Jazz low oil pressure warning red light comes on for a few seconds when the ignition switch is set to on. If the oil light remains on:
As soon as you can, park the car on level ground in a safe place.
Switch off the the engine and wait for about three minutes.
Open the bonnet and check the oil level. Using the dip stick, add oil ensuring the level does not exceed the MAX marker on the dip stick.
Start the engine and check the low oil pressure light.
If the oil pressure light goes out, you can start driving again.
If the oil pressure light does not go off within 10 seconds, stop the engine and do not continue driving. Severe engine damage may occur. Contact a Honda engineer for assistance.
I changed the spark plug , clean the throttle body , clean fuel injector but still have the same problem when I turn on a/c and stopping at the redlight the car shaking like they don't have enough power to drive and they shut down the engine. I try to restart again but it's not easy to restart but when I turn off a/c they can start it and run normally. I have been to the shop around 2-3 shops but they can't find out. If they can't figue it out maybe I have to get a new car insted.
I changed the spark plug , clean the throttle body , clean fuel injector but still have the same problem when I turn on a/c and stopping at the redlight the car shaking like they don't have enough power to drive and they shut down the engine. I try to restart again but it's not easy to restart but when I turn off a/c they can start it and run normally. I have been to the shop around 2-3 shops but they can't find out. If they can't figue it out maybe I have to get a new car insted.
It sounds like the AC system is for sure the culprit. My suggestion is to take it somewhere with a high level scanner that can read live data. They can analyze live data to pinpoint the problem. You could take it to a dealer, but dealers are hit or miss when it comes to diagnosing and fixing unusual problems (and to a lesser but real extent, honesty). It sounds like you're gonna pay a premium to get the car diagnosed, and possibly another premium to get it fixed (AC work isn't cheap) but it's still cheaper than buying another whole car (and possibly a new set of issues, or a rapidly depreciating asset, or both). Good luck either way. If you really just don't want to fool with it, and you can afford it, no one will blame you if you just trade it in.
try turning on ALL accessorize except the AC..if idle drop and stall....car problem....if not ac problem...but car should try and accommodate bad high load ac so maybe still car problem?
if its manual....crank the idle speed up...somehow
06-05-2021, 07:19 PM
