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Electronic Hatch Back (HB) release not working on 2015 Fit EX.
Thank you for the warm welcome to the family.
I recently purchased a 2015 Fit EX from the original owner. The history of the Fit involves a slow speed front fender passenger side accident. For some reason the engine bay fuse box needed to be replaced, something related to the wiper motor constantly running after the ignition was turned off. Once the fuse panel was replaced, by a third party repair shop, the HB would not electronically release anymore. The Honda Fit was taken to a Honda dealership for repair but was unable to resolve the discrepancy. The HB's wiring, solenoid, and latch mechanism works perfectly fine. A mechanical release was fabricated to manually release the HB from the inside.
I wonder if the fuse panel was replaced with a dissimilar fuse panel from a LX model? Any ideas?
Respectfully,
Mike
Last edited by Miklav05; Oct 25, 2021 at 03:00 PM.
Dear Nadams334, Attached is photo taken from the back seat looking at the inside of the tailgate, I removed the black plastic trim piece so you can see the stick better. The stick is not more than a 1/8" in diameter but you can use a screw driver. If you have an owner’s manual check out page 429. I just push in and slide and the tailgate releases. The stick is about 18" long so I can reach the latch from the back seat.
Respectfully, Mike from CLE.
Last edited by Miklav05; May 15, 2022 at 12:08 PM.
Update, I ordered a used compatible cabin A fuse assembly, part number38200-T5A-A41 after taking apart hatchback release handle, see attached Photos A &B .
BACKGROUND. I took the Honda Fit to second Honda dealership. According to the dealership the hatchback release handle/switch is not working but did not have a new one in stock to check it out. I did find out after exploring around with a dental mirror and an HD camera that the cabin A fuse assembly was replaced with an incompatible fuse assembly. The part number of the current installed fuse assembly is (38200) T5A-A21. According Honda's Parts website the correct part number should be 38200-T5A-A41. FYI, the part number label is located on outboard side in between fuse assembly and the car's left finder, see attached Photo C. I used a dental mirror to verify the incompatible part number. I will keep you informed if this resolves the hatchback not opening discrepancy.
Respectfully, Mike from CLE Photo A disassemblied Photo B, my guess at the switch functions. Photo C., looking down at the footwell driver's. Zoom in to read reflection in dental mirror.
I removed and replaced the cabin A fuse assembly with a compatiable one and yes the tailgate/hatchback now works and release. So the problem all long was the wrong cabin A fuse assembly was installed into the Honda after the front end collusion. So this thread is closed.
Thank you reading and for those who responded with any suggesiton.
Thanks to one of the guys in a comment above I learned how to manually open it from the inside but would very much like to not have to do that for long. And as I hate going to the dealership would like to know if there is a fuse that I can change or some other fix to avoid taking it in.
Update.
Had to take the vehicle into a Honda dealership who was willing to replace and reprogram my used MICU, total cost $240, $150 for dealer to R&R and reprogram MICU plus $90 for purchase price of the recycled MICU. Well worth it because now I have use of the hatchback release and a bunch of other little things work now with the correct MICU installed. Four items I noticed so far since the correct MICU installed: 1. Hatchback release works, 2. Auto all door locks when the vehicle moves about 40 feet. 3. All doors automatically unlock after open driver's door, after engine stop, 4. Electronic Beep instead of no audible alert when I wave my hand inside the side door latch to unlock vehicle door. 5. Electronic beep instead of the louder blast from vehicle horn when I double click the FOB to lock vehicle. Thanks again to everyone who read and posted tips and tricks. CASE CLOSED.
Last edited by Miklav05; May 15, 2022 at 12:11 PM.
We need to determine what type of hatchback/tailgate release you have. Which model Honda Fit do you have and does it have Smart Entry and or Push Button instead of turning key to start the engine?
We need to determine what type of hatchback/tailgate release you have. Which model Honda Fit do you have and does it have Smart Entry and or Push Button instead of turning key to start the engine?
Respectfully, Mike from CLE
Hi Mike, thanks for replying. Its a 2015 honda fit Exl with push button start and smart entry that promptly stopped working right after I purchased it.
I heard some people had problems with their FOB reception. Try opening the tailgate while you have the FOB in one hand and the other hand release the tailgate while outside and behind the vehicle. If the tailgate does not open, try swapping out fuse number 1, it is a 20 amp fuse, see attached photos. I removed my number 1 fuse today and the tailgate would not open nor would any other door lock or unlock. Make sure you leave the windows down so you don't accidentaly get locked out of the vehicle. See photos below.
Plug to latch Plug to latch, different angle Plug to latch, 3 wires hardwired in back 32109-t5r-a20 wire harness tailgate Latch connector with 1 pin showing Other side of latch, 74810-t7a-j01
Hi,
I have a 2015 Honda Fit EX CVT where the hatch opener early last year started working only intermittently before it eventually stopped working altogether both through the key fob and manually. I removed the panel in the back to get access to the parts and figured out the parts no to it so I could order a replacement, but they all had 3 pins and wouldn't fit the plug shown which have only 1 hole. I then went on eBay to search for used ones, but they also all had 3 pins. Then I showed pictures to parts department at my local Honda dealer and they said it originally had 3 pins, but 2 pins were corroded and stuck in plug. If I wanted to order parts I would need to order the whole wire harness assembly since the plug doesn't come loose or at least isn't sold on its own. Total price for the 2 parts is over $800!
Online I can get the wire harness for $300 to $400 and the hatch unlock for a little over $20, both brand new. Still a bit too much for my liking and I'm not sure how technological of a DYI project with my limited skills the whole wire harness assembly is. So, are there any cheaper options? Can't the plug be removed from the wiring and bought somewhere on its own?
Dear Sorta,
Great photos and from what I can see two of the three pins have corroded and broken off inside the male connector from the main wire harness. I haven't taken this specific connector apart before but I imagine it can be done. You will probably need a pin extraction tool kit; very affordable tool kits are available from Amazon or Alibaba. The extraction tool will allow you to remove the wires from the backside of the connector. By removing the wires from the backside should also pull out the two broken off pins, saving you from buying a new wire harness. Below is example of pin extraction tool kit I just Google "pins extraction kit."
Opened top cover Macro picture setting just showing corrosion in detail
Thanks Mike! I went ahead and ordered off Amazon the exact same set you pictured because it seemed to include the most variety of pin extraction tools. Unfortunately I have not made much progress. Was able to flip open the top on the connector by lifting 2 side tabs as seen in picture (hopefully a little clearer now that I discovered macro picture setting on my phone). Found tools that are small enough to go in through the front (obviously only middle non corroded connector with the black wire in the back) and I can push it in all the way to the wire, but haven't felt a release mechanism as of yet. Haven't been able to get any of the tools in on the back side where the wires go in. Is it possible to get to the release mechanism from where I opened it up with the top tab as shown in my picture?
Great photos and narrative. I too can see the blueish/green corrosion in two of the three electrical pins. Three more suggestions. 1. Find out which direction the factory inserted the (female?) electrical pins into the white plastic connector. Next find out which direction the barbs on the electrical pin stick out/flare out. Usually the electrical pins have two or three pieces of metal tabs (or barbs) that lock the electrical pin into the white plastic connector housing, kind of like barb on a fish hook. Find out what the electrical pins look like. For example: my 2018 John Deere riding mower has a very detailed IPB (illustrate parts breakdown online). The JD IPB is so detailed it showed the type of push pins and what direction the barb sticks up from therefore you know which direction to insert the extraction tool to release/ compress the barb and pull out the electrical pin. It may take several times before you find the correct size extraction tool and compress the barb so the pin will remove. The barb is very small so you won't feel it or hear it when it compresses. With a stubborn electrical pin, like yours, you may have to compress the barb and pull hard to release the wire and pin from the white plastic connector housing. Suggestion 2. Disconnect the 12 volt engine starting battery before going any further with this next suggestion. So much corrosion maybe keeping the electrical pin from sliding out. Try soaking or spraying in some WD-40 or soak the white plastic connector with white vinegar then blow out the blueish/green corrosion material, please wear safety googles. This may help to loosen up three electrical pins. Suggestion 3. Fabricate your own white plastic connector. You can always cut off the white plastic connector and wires and toss them into the trash. Next solder/crimp on three new very tight female electrical pins which will connect to the latch release mechanism’s male pins. Additionally you can apply silicon between the mated pins to prevent them from shorting out against each other, kind of making your own injected molding silicon wire connector housing. The cured silicon will prevent any of the three pins from touching anything.
Also I would tape the wires from the main wire harness to the car so that the downward weight of the wires won't separate the electrical male and female pins from each other.
