Class Action Lawsuit for Honda Fit Battery issues
Member
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 296
From: NTX
Like this one: https://amzn.to/3Jiw0ft
It reports voltage in real time, so you can see the voltage that your alternator is producing (should be ideally around 14.3v or so), and when the engine isn't running you'll see battery voltage. When the car is cold, after sitting overnight for example, if you put the car in accessory mode before starting it, you'll see battery voltage and if it has drained below a healthy level. It should be around 12.6v. If it is closer to 12v or below, you have a battery that isn't fully charging and probably needs replacement. If the running voltage is below 13.5v you likely have a charging system problem, i.e. alternator or voltage regulator.
It reports voltage in real time, so you can see the voltage that your alternator is producing (should be ideally around 14.3v or so), and when the engine isn't running you'll see battery voltage. When the car is cold, after sitting overnight for example, if you put the car in accessory mode before starting it, you'll see battery voltage and if it has drained below a healthy level. It should be around 12.6v. If it is closer to 12v or below, you have a battery that isn't fully charging and probably needs replacement. If the running voltage is below 13.5v you likely have a charging system problem, i.e. alternator or voltage regulator.
Like this one: https://amzn.to/3Jiw0ft
It reports voltage in real time, so you can see the voltage that your alternator is producing (should be ideally around 14.3v or so), and when the engine isn't running you'll see battery voltage. When the car is cold, after sitting overnight for example, if you put the car in accessory mode before starting it, you'll see battery voltage and if it has drained below a healthy level. It should be around 12.6v. If it is closer to 12v or below, you have a battery that isn't fully charging and probably needs replacement. If the running voltage is below 13.5v you likely have a charging system problem, i.e. alternator or voltage regulator.
It reports voltage in real time, so you can see the voltage that your alternator is producing (should be ideally around 14.3v or so), and when the engine isn't running you'll see battery voltage. When the car is cold, after sitting overnight for example, if you put the car in accessory mode before starting it, you'll see battery voltage and if it has drained below a healthy level. It should be around 12.6v. If it is closer to 12v or below, you have a battery that isn't fully charging and probably needs replacement. If the running voltage is below 13.5v you likely have a charging system problem, i.e. alternator or voltage regulator.
Last edited by Reddogs; Jun 4, 2023 at 09:56 AM.
I suspect a bad voltage regulator, but that's just a guess.
The dead batteries are only the end result of whatever's going on IMO.
One idea is to plug a monitoring system into your OBD-II port and see what kind of voltage data you can get in real time. So if you're driving around and adding electrical drain to the system (lights, A/C, etc) and the voltage doesn't keep up, that would help explain the dead batteries - system isn't keeping up with increased demand, and your battery discharges as a result.
Another thought is that the original 151R batteries are very much underpowered for this system. Running the larger 51R batteries is kind of a no-brainer where I live, where I need every cold crank amp I can get in the winter. They fit in the same tray as the original with no sawing required. So if you haven't switched by now, maybe time to give it a whirl.
The dead batteries are only the end result of whatever's going on IMO.
One idea is to plug a monitoring system into your OBD-II port and see what kind of voltage data you can get in real time. So if you're driving around and adding electrical drain to the system (lights, A/C, etc) and the voltage doesn't keep up, that would help explain the dead batteries - system isn't keeping up with increased demand, and your battery discharges as a result.
Another thought is that the original 151R batteries are very much underpowered for this system. Running the larger 51R batteries is kind of a no-brainer where I live, where I need every cold crank amp I can get in the winter. They fit in the same tray as the original with no sawing required. So if you haven't switched by now, maybe time to give it a whirl.
Well, I took it to the local one since the dealers aren't saying anything, and the battery was at 9 volts, and would look like it was ready to start and show all displays but wouldn't turn over.
Member
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 836
From: MA
9 volts is dead for a 12 volt battery. If you run it down to 9 volts more than a few times you end up with a ruined battery.
When the car is off and the battery is healthy you should see something a bit above 12 volts.
When the car is running and the charging system is working correctly you should see between 13.5 and 14 volts.
You have some manner of parasitic drain in your Fit(s). If you don't identify that you can keep putting in new batteries or bigger batteries until your bank account runs dry and you won't get a different result.
When the car is off and the battery is healthy you should see something a bit above 12 volts.
When the car is running and the charging system is working correctly you should see between 13.5 and 14 volts.
You have some manner of parasitic drain in your Fit(s). If you don't identify that you can keep putting in new batteries or bigger batteries until your bank account runs dry and you won't get a different result.
9 volts is dead for a 12 volt battery. If you run it down to 9 volts more than a few times you end up with a ruined battery.
When the car is off and the battery is healthy you should see something a bit above 12 volts.
When the car is running and the charging system is working correctly you should see between 13.5 and 14 volts.
You have some manner of parasitic drain in your Fit(s). If you don't identify that you can keep putting in new batteries or bigger batteries until your bank account runs dry and you won't get a different result.
When the car is off and the battery is healthy you should see something a bit above 12 volts.
When the car is running and the charging system is working correctly you should see between 13.5 and 14 volts.
You have some manner of parasitic drain in your Fit(s). If you don't identify that you can keep putting in new batteries or bigger batteries until your bank account runs dry and you won't get a different result.
Wow, it just continues.. The2016 Fit went dead on the Honda battery the dealer put in so finally gave up on the Honda battery thinking they might be too weak, and put in the Diehard battery. Guess what it went dead after hardly more than a few hundred miles, so it has to be a parasitic drain somewhere, but where and how to nail it down.
It was a Diehard and it shows at 9.6 volts, so looking for the reciept to exchange it.
Member
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 836
From: MA
When I was a kid, I would grab the electric fence around our cow pasture and get shocked. Next day, grab the fence and get shocked. Next day... grab the fence and get shocked. There was a reason that my parents thought I was very special.
You remind me of my younger self. New battery... ruined. New battery... ruined. New battery... ruined.
You don't seem very invested in figuring out your underlying problem. Several folks have offered suggestions above, and you admit the possibility of a parasitic drain a few posts up, but your go-to solution is to keep replacing the battery.
For the past couple years since I started working from home my Fit isn't driven very much. We have a Nissan Leaf EV that we use for all short trips and my wife's commute. The Fit is our long trip car and consequently can sit for weeks or even months between drives, including in the dead of winter. I keep it hooked to a cheap battery tender (https://tinyurl.com/2wbemujy) and as a result the Fit starts immediately every time.
For $21 you might not solve your problem but you could at least stop killing innocent batteries.
You remind me of my younger self. New battery... ruined. New battery... ruined. New battery... ruined.
You don't seem very invested in figuring out your underlying problem. Several folks have offered suggestions above, and you admit the possibility of a parasitic drain a few posts up, but your go-to solution is to keep replacing the battery.
For the past couple years since I started working from home my Fit isn't driven very much. We have a Nissan Leaf EV that we use for all short trips and my wife's commute. The Fit is our long trip car and consequently can sit for weeks or even months between drives, including in the dead of winter. I keep it hooked to a cheap battery tender (https://tinyurl.com/2wbemujy) and as a result the Fit starts immediately every time.
For $21 you might not solve your problem but you could at least stop killing innocent batteries.
When I was a kid, I would grab the electric fence around our cow pasture and get shocked. Next day, grab the fence and get shocked. Next day... grab the fence and get shocked. There was a reason that my parents thought I was very special.
You remind me of my younger self. New battery... ruined. New battery... ruined. New battery... ruined.
You don't seem very invested in figuring out your underlying problem. Several folks have offered suggestions above, and you admit the possibility of a parasitic drain a few posts up, but your go-to solution is to keep replacing the battery.
For the past couple years since I started working from home my Fit isn't driven very much. We have a Nissan Leaf EV that we use for all short trips and my wife's commute. The Fit is our long trip car and consequently can sit for weeks or even months between drives, including in the dead of winter. I keep it hooked to a cheap battery tender (https://tinyurl.com/2wbemujy) and as a result the Fit starts immediately every time.
For $21 you might not solve your problem but you could at least stop killing innocent batteries.
You remind me of my younger self. New battery... ruined. New battery... ruined. New battery... ruined.
You don't seem very invested in figuring out your underlying problem. Several folks have offered suggestions above, and you admit the possibility of a parasitic drain a few posts up, but your go-to solution is to keep replacing the battery.
For the past couple years since I started working from home my Fit isn't driven very much. We have a Nissan Leaf EV that we use for all short trips and my wife's commute. The Fit is our long trip car and consequently can sit for weeks or even months between drives, including in the dead of winter. I keep it hooked to a cheap battery tender (https://tinyurl.com/2wbemujy) and as a result the Fit starts immediately every time.
For $21 you might not solve your problem but you could at least stop killing innocent batteries.
Well, I figured it out. I took it to a battery shop and explained the problem, and they just couldnt believe it. One of the techs grabbed his instruments and went out right to the car and tested. When he finished he showed me right from the displays, and let me take pictures with my phone. The battery was the Honda 151r battery on the 2015 Honda Fit, and the tech told me it should not be draining more than .02 or .03 just sitting, and with the keyless entry or anywhere near the car it went to .7 to 8. With me taking the keys out of range it went to .06 to .07, which he said was going to weaken the battery to below starting level even if just sitting parked and the keys were out of range and calculated how long it would take. So from his calculations thats whats been happening, if I leave it sitting, it ends up somewhere below 10 volts and the lights come on but it will not start, or it goes below 9 volts and wont let me open the door. Took it to the Honda dealer and he claimed too full and no one could see it or even bring over tester to check it but I could set appointment. So I called and it will be a month out before they can bring it in...............
I did, and you can see what they found.
Member
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 836
From: MA
Are you saying that the draw on the battery, with the car turned off, changed (significantly) depending on how close the key fob was to the car?
That's weird and something I've never heard of. Did the mechanic have any thoughts as to why this would be occurring?
That's weird and something I've never heard of. Did the mechanic have any thoughts as to why this would be occurring?
Yes, it was drastic change when I came by the car while tech was checking, and if I did any function like click to lock car or unlock or if sat in the car near enough the key sensor to start. So since I have two cars I come by the other car with the both keys every day, so quess what, even though I am not using it, I am putting a drain on the battery, that explains why the Fits with a regular key dont have this issue.
Note what it says on the draw on Honda Fit..." parasitic power draw is when something is drawing current from your Honda Fit’s battery after you turn the vehicle off, like an interior light or a malfunctioning component. To fix this issue, you’ll need to test for a parasitic power draw. Here’s how:
Remove the negative cable from your Fit’s battery and use a multimeter to measure the draw. The draw should be less than 25 milliamps (0.025 amps). If it’s higher than that, then something is drawing current, and it must be addressed."
So it should be less than 25 milliamps (0.025 amps)., and mine was 60-70 milliamps (0.060-70 amps).with keys out of range, anybody see a problem, hmm.
Remove the negative cable from your Fit’s battery and use a multimeter to measure the draw. The draw should be less than 25 milliamps (0.025 amps). If it’s higher than that, then something is drawing current, and it must be addressed."
So it should be less than 25 milliamps (0.025 amps)., and mine was 60-70 milliamps (0.060-70 amps).with keys out of range, anybody see a problem, hmm.
Member
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 836
From: MA
Just curious, since you have the two Fits.
Does the key from Fit A cause the parasitic draw on both Fit A and Fit B?
Same question for the key from Fit B?
How long does the increased current last after you pass by the Fit with your key? Seconds? Minutes?
I'm still curious about the exact conditions that cause the current to increase. Obviously when you do something with the key fob (e.g., click the unlock button) it makes sense that the current drawn from the car battery increases. I'm not all that surprised that the current increases when you're sitting in the car either, as there must be some sort of signal passed from the key to the car to inform the car that the key is present, which in turn presumably turns some stuff on in the car to prepare for starting. But, it makes no sense to me why the current would increase on your Fit (one or both of them?) when you leave the vicinity with your key.
I'm interested to see what you learn from Honda, but I would definitely do more experimentation beforehand to clarify the behaviors you have described.
Does the key from Fit A cause the parasitic draw on both Fit A and Fit B?
Same question for the key from Fit B?
How long does the increased current last after you pass by the Fit with your key? Seconds? Minutes?
I'm still curious about the exact conditions that cause the current to increase. Obviously when you do something with the key fob (e.g., click the unlock button) it makes sense that the current drawn from the car battery increases. I'm not all that surprised that the current increases when you're sitting in the car either, as there must be some sort of signal passed from the key to the car to inform the car that the key is present, which in turn presumably turns some stuff on in the car to prepare for starting. But, it makes no sense to me why the current would increase on your Fit (one or both of them?) when you leave the vicinity with your key.
I'm interested to see what you learn from Honda, but I would definitely do more experimentation beforehand to clarify the behaviors you have described.
Just curious, since you have the two Fits.
Does the key from Fit A cause the parasitic draw on both Fit A and Fit B?
Same question for the key from Fit B?
How long does the increased current last after you pass by the Fit with your key? Seconds? Minutes?
I'm still curious about the exact conditions that cause the current to increase. Obviously when you do something with the key fob (e.g., click the unlock button) it makes sense that the current drawn from the car battery increases. I'm not all that surprised that the current increases when you're sitting in the car either, as there must be some sort of signal passed from the key to the car to inform the car that the key is present, which in turn presumably turns some stuff on in the car to prepare for starting. But, it makes no sense to me why the current would increase on your Fit (one or both of them?) when you leave the vicinity with your key.
I'm interested to see what you learn from Honda, but I would definitely do more experimentation beforehand to clarify the behaviors you have described.
Does the key from Fit A cause the parasitic draw on both Fit A and Fit B?
Same question for the key from Fit B?
How long does the increased current last after you pass by the Fit with your key? Seconds? Minutes?
I'm still curious about the exact conditions that cause the current to increase. Obviously when you do something with the key fob (e.g., click the unlock button) it makes sense that the current drawn from the car battery increases. I'm not all that surprised that the current increases when you're sitting in the car either, as there must be some sort of signal passed from the key to the car to inform the car that the key is present, which in turn presumably turns some stuff on in the car to prepare for starting. But, it makes no sense to me why the current would increase on your Fit (one or both of them?) when you leave the vicinity with your key.
I'm interested to see what you learn from Honda, but I would definitely do more experimentation beforehand to clarify the behaviors you have described.
Last edited by Reddogs; Jul 4, 2023 at 08:48 AM.
Here is others who are coming across this issue...https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discus...9904_ds1049785
"My 2019 honda fit is 6 months old. went on 2 week vacation and battery is
dead.
service says if i leave this car in driveway for one week and it's not driven this
is what happens. is this really normal??????
Guru2QCP8 answered
I was also told at the dealership that this can happen if you drive your car only for very short distances or for less than 15 minutes. Starting the car and all the systems drains the battery, and then it never has a chance to fully recharge. I often drive 10 minutes or less to school, so I think he is right. I bought one of those battery tenders online for about $25 and plan to periodically charge the battery.
Guru1SVW6 answered
I own Honda Fit 2019, 8500 miles odometer, initial battery died 4000 miles, replaced and same dead battery problem at 8000 miles, installed 3rd new battery this week. I'm beginning to think I have a lemon on my hands. Dealer replaced batteries under warranty; however, they decline to investigate for causal issues and assume it is the battery itself that is the problem."
and more... https://www.reddit.com/r/hondafit/co...e_only_had_it/
/hondafit
•1 yr. ago
My honda fit battery keeps dying i’ve only had it for 2 years
Garet44
This seems to a common fault of many Hondas built in the last decade. Honda has been putting out cars with batteries that are ultra compact and often underrated for the vehicles they're supposed to be in. The result is that they experience deeper discharging during their service life, shortening the life of the battery, all things equal.
It only takes 2 or 3 complete discharges to kill a lead acid battery, so their demise is accelerated at the end of their service life. The more they run down, the harder it is to hold a charge, so the more they run down and so on until they prematurely give out. Hot climates exacerbate battery degradation as well.
If you have to keep replacing the battery every 2 or 3 years, that might be typical. Maybe get a kit to install a larger battery, perhaps a 600CCA AGM battery. Those are warrantied up to 7 years, and are expected to last at least 8, and they don't get destroyed after a complete discharge or two (I've discharged one probably 7 times and it stayed strong for 3 years before I sold that particular car). I strongly recommend going that route on your next battery, the only trouble is that they are bulky and don't fit under the hood in the battery compartment without some modification.
If you're replacing your battery every week or every month, or even sooner, you have a parasitic draw on your electrical system, which could be a faulty radio module not shutting off, a bulb being left on somewhere, or possibly the alternator itself has a bad diode. You can test for a parasitic draw yourself with a multimeter. With some alligator clips and a ton of patience, you can hunt down the source. A reputable shop would of course be able to determine the cause of repeated battery failure, diagnose the source, and do the repairs."
Failure Date: 03/18/2020I purchased my new vehicle February 2020. These are my electronic vehicle issues: 1) my battery dies when left for several hours with no electronics left on and no after market add on equipment. 2) electronic display looses touch functionality. Battery disconnect restores. 3) radio presets change to channels I would not select. I think a hacker has compromised the gps or cellular phone factory power/connect attachment. These issue stop when the vehicle looses view of the sky. Ie. , metal roof garage. Attached volt meter and vehicle has severe electrical drain for normal 14. 4 to 12. 2 volts. This is variable and unrelated to heavy power draining equipment like "rear window defroster. " electrical system normally drops momentarily during factory equipment initial turn on but quickly returns to 14. 4 volts. At various times while driving, system voltage will remain at 12. 2 volts with no user electrical equipment change. Possible suspect within law enforcement reports. Law enforcement reports: russell cty al 19sl06902, 18sl12031, 19sl06910 lee cty al 1906-2823, 1810-2196." https://www.carproblemzoo.com/honda/...d-problems.php
It just goes on and on all over the internet.. https://www.2carpros.com/questions/h...parasitic-draw
And good explanation.. https://www.google.com/search?q=hond...zPyVrIJY,st:18
"My 2019 honda fit is 6 months old. went on 2 week vacation and battery is
dead.
service says if i leave this car in driveway for one week and it's not driven this
is what happens. is this really normal??????
Guru2QCP8 answered
I was also told at the dealership that this can happen if you drive your car only for very short distances or for less than 15 minutes. Starting the car and all the systems drains the battery, and then it never has a chance to fully recharge. I often drive 10 minutes or less to school, so I think he is right. I bought one of those battery tenders online for about $25 and plan to periodically charge the battery.
Guru1SVW6 answered
I own Honda Fit 2019, 8500 miles odometer, initial battery died 4000 miles, replaced and same dead battery problem at 8000 miles, installed 3rd new battery this week. I'm beginning to think I have a lemon on my hands. Dealer replaced batteries under warranty; however, they decline to investigate for causal issues and assume it is the battery itself that is the problem."
and more... https://www.reddit.com/r/hondafit/co...e_only_had_it/
/hondafit
•1 yr. ago
My honda fit battery keeps dying i’ve only had it for 2 years
Garet44
This seems to a common fault of many Hondas built in the last decade. Honda has been putting out cars with batteries that are ultra compact and often underrated for the vehicles they're supposed to be in. The result is that they experience deeper discharging during their service life, shortening the life of the battery, all things equal.
It only takes 2 or 3 complete discharges to kill a lead acid battery, so their demise is accelerated at the end of their service life. The more they run down, the harder it is to hold a charge, so the more they run down and so on until they prematurely give out. Hot climates exacerbate battery degradation as well.
If you have to keep replacing the battery every 2 or 3 years, that might be typical. Maybe get a kit to install a larger battery, perhaps a 600CCA AGM battery. Those are warrantied up to 7 years, and are expected to last at least 8, and they don't get destroyed after a complete discharge or two (I've discharged one probably 7 times and it stayed strong for 3 years before I sold that particular car). I strongly recommend going that route on your next battery, the only trouble is that they are bulky and don't fit under the hood in the battery compartment without some modification.
If you're replacing your battery every week or every month, or even sooner, you have a parasitic draw on your electrical system, which could be a faulty radio module not shutting off, a bulb being left on somewhere, or possibly the alternator itself has a bad diode. You can test for a parasitic draw yourself with a multimeter. With some alligator clips and a ton of patience, you can hunt down the source. A reputable shop would of course be able to determine the cause of repeated battery failure, diagnose the source, and do the repairs."
Battery Dead Problems of Honda FIT
Honda FIT owners have reported 5 problems related to battery dead (under the electrical system category). The most recently reported issues are listed below. Also please check out the statistics and reliability analysis of Honda FIT based on all problems reported for the FIT.1 Battery Dead problem of the 2019 Honda FIT
Failure Date: 03/18/2020I purchased my new vehicle February 2020. These are my electronic vehicle issues: 1) my battery dies when left for several hours with no electronics left on and no after market add on equipment. 2) electronic display looses touch functionality. Battery disconnect restores. 3) radio presets change to channels I would not select. I think a hacker has compromised the gps or cellular phone factory power/connect attachment. These issue stop when the vehicle looses view of the sky. Ie. , metal roof garage. Attached volt meter and vehicle has severe electrical drain for normal 14. 4 to 12. 2 volts. This is variable and unrelated to heavy power draining equipment like "rear window defroster. " electrical system normally drops momentarily during factory equipment initial turn on but quickly returns to 14. 4 volts. At various times while driving, system voltage will remain at 12. 2 volts with no user electrical equipment change. Possible suspect within law enforcement reports. Law enforcement reports: russell cty al 19sl06902, 18sl12031, 19sl06910 lee cty al 1906-2823, 1810-2196." https://www.carproblemzoo.com/honda/...d-problems.php
It just goes on and on all over the internet.. https://www.2carpros.com/questions/h...parasitic-draw
And good explanation.. https://www.google.com/search?q=hond...zPyVrIJY,st:18
Last edited by Reddogs; Jul 4, 2023 at 09:00 AM.