Hello, Having intermittent starting issues with my 2015 LX 6 speed manual. Key start. Battery and connections good. All electrical comes on OK in second key position but no start when key turned to start position. Been going on for a couple of months. When it starts, its an instant turn over fast start.
Clutch interlock switch is OK - I could hold key in start position and pump the clutch and it would sometimes start, but replaced switch and even jumper wired the connector - still intermittent no start.
This leaves the ignition switch, starter cut relay and starter motor (integrated solenoid) that could be at issue. It's probably the starter motor, but I want to swap out the starter cut relay first. There is an earlier post (Nov.7th, 2019) with a diagram with starter relays arrowed, but this does not match my relay layout - I suspect it's for earlier Fits.
So, can someone please indicate which relay is the 'starter cut relay' in the attached pics of my Fuse Box A (engine) or Fuse Box A (under dash) ?
On line replacements would suggest it is one of the seven G8HL-H71 relays.
Thanks



Engine Compartment Fuse Box A

Under dash Fuse box A

 

Looks like #26 if I'm understanding correctly.

​​​​​​https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-...-fuse-box.html

Oh, never mind, you said relay.

 

Damn, can't delete, sorry

 

Are there markings on/in the lid of the engine bay box?

[edit] I found a 2019 diagram that says it's in the engine bay auxiliary fuse box, left front of engine bay.

 

Thanks, yes, my post shows the Fuse Box 'A' you're referring to in the engine compartment - but as you can see, there are multiple relays in it.
I need to know what SPECIFIC relay is the 'starter cut relay' so I can swap it out.

 

That doesn't look very "auxiliary" to me. That looks like the main fuse box.

Okay, I got off my butt and looked. I get it now. The fuse box marking is horrendous. Looks like laser-etched, no relay labels, and the fuse labels are only vaguely arranged the way the fuses are. It's like a 12 year old was forced to do their chores before going to a friend's house.

We've got a 2020 automatic with keyless access so that won't help with your actual question, but it has an auxiliary box on the passenger side. It's tiny - just big enough to fit 4 relays packed together. Zero labeling. I might cry if ours ever gets electrical gremlins.

 

Thanks, bobski, but hopefully someone out there has a 2015 Fit and knows where the 'starter cut relay' is on my original post pics.

 

It's the white one.
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-...iagram=4232366

 

Thanks bobski. From the website pic, it looks to have a 5-pin layout versus the Omron standard 4-pin layout (the black relays). And, of course, I bought some Omron relays as that's what the Amazon search said was a the starter cut relay for my Fit. I'll get one of these instead.
I wonder if relay number 3 (ignition coil) would cause starting issues?
Appreciate your help.

 

Hi bobski, I wonder if the picture of the starter cut relay on the Honda parts now site is incorrect, as other pics (on ebay for instance) for the '39794-T5A-J01' relay show it to be a standard4-pin layout. I'll pull the relay to make sure after I get back from vacation.

 

They're all "Micro ISO" form-factor. The additional pin between the coil pins is a "normally closed" load contact, having the opposite action from the typical "normally open" 4-pin relays. That is, the "common" load contact is connected to the "normally closed" contact when the coil is off, but moves to the "normally open" contact when the coil is energized. The wiring diagrams show the NC contact is unused. Honda probably chose that relay based on its current handling specifications. A vanilla Omron relay could work fine there (if you cut off the key tab) though with a shorter service life.

 

bobski, Thanks again for the info. Will let you know when I pull it (will probably get the correct part - they go fairly cheap on ebay).

 

2015 key start here......its the STARTER, not something easy like a relay.......did mine 6 months ago at 67oookms. FAIRLY easy....but dammm the bolts TIGHT like they say. its kinda a known issue...the weak starter...i was all clutch interlock in the beginning too!!...never thought of relay!!...i didnt buy an OEM FYI....fairly cheap...i think i got off rock...of course with that pesky key it could be the actual ignition switch...but its not....ive replaced 2 of those on various cars and usally not a fun job.....unfortunately the starter is slightly LESS fun.....ideally you have tiny hands...this would help..... whatever hands you have will have a few scratches and less skin...but will heal in 2 weeks...my advice is think giant breaker bars and pipe over top. obviously on reassembly never seize will make the job easier in 2035...and you ll know how to do it.!! if u need any advice i'm here.

 

Thanks for the advice. It probably is the starter but thought I'd try the switches anyway as fairly easy. I haven't done any serious car work, but might try replacing the starter myself if I'm feeling adventurous. There's quite a few YouTube videos also. Will let you know if I need help Thanks again.
​

 

I went ahead and replaced the 'starter cut relay' and sure enough, it did not fix the issue.
So it's pointing to the starter needing replaced as member 2015FITEX mentioned.
When I look at starter part pricing for my 2015 LX 6spd, the parts stores (local and on line) are charging $300-$400 and these look mostly re-manufactured - higher for anything new.
I can buy a new starter motor with decent reviews, that says it meets or exceeds OEM specs, from e-bay or Amazon for $100 or less. Is there a good reason I shouldn't buy one of these, whether I install myself or have someone else do it ?
Thanks

 

To some degree you're paying for long-term reliability. That is, replacement components made of longer-lasting materials, manufactured to more precise tolerances. The bargain re-manufactured parts will replace only the components needed to get the starter working again. More expensive brands *may* go a few steps further, replacing worn parts that haven't necessarily failed yet. That said, fewer parts replaced = more profit for the company, so they have motive to screw you no matter how much you spend. Your safest bet is to buy a starter with a long warranty from a well-known brand - A warranty is worthless if the company goes bankrupt.

In your position, I would find the starter and guesstimate how much work replacing it is likely to be. While you're in there, see if you can access the smaller starter terminal well enough to unplug the connector. The smaller connector contains a single blade terminal that activates the starter when connected to battery positive - the "solenoid" terminal. If the connector is accessible, go about making a test jumper wire:
The point of a jumper wire is to skip the car's wiring, relays, switches and whatnot to verify that the starter is in fact the point of failure. A solenoid jumper wire doesn't rule out a bad battery cable (positive, which has a branch going directly to the starter's big bolt-on terminal, or negative "ground" through the engine/transmission casing). At least give the cables a visual inspection - try to follow them from the respective battery terminals to the starter and engine/transmission casing, looking for physical damage or corrosion at the terminals.
Anyway, the jumper: Go to an auto parts store and get ~5+ feet of 12 or 14-gauge wire, and a package of female "Faston"/spade terminals (blue for 14 gauge wire, yellow for 12 gauge). The terminals are available in a few different widths - 1/4" or "250 series" (as in 0.250") will probably fit, but getting a package the next size down could save you a return trip. A package of male 1/4" terminals will let you plug into the load terminals of the fuse box relay sockets, should troubleshooting require. The "coil" relay socket terminals are a size down. The heat-shrink kind of terminals are overkill here - we're just doing testing work.
Once you've got your stuff, figure out which size of spade terminal best fits the solenoid terminal, set aside the other size. Cut a length of wire that will reach from the starter solenoid terminal back to the battery positive terminal. If the spool of wire is only 10 feet or something, just use the whole thing. Strip back the insulation about 1/8" or 3/16" on each end of the wire, twist the strands together neatly on one end (this end goes to the battery). The female spade terminal will have a small tube to insert the wire into, with a plastic insulator covering it. Insert the untwisted wire end until the wire insulation bottoms out against the inner metal part of the tube, then crush the tube down onto the wire with a pair of pliers. Yes, you will be crushing the plastic part, that's okay. Use a pair of pliers with as much leverage as possible (jaws as close to the pivot point as you have). Alternatively, use the corner of the jaws of a bench vise to crimp the tube, being careful to not crush the spade connector part of the terminal, and minimizing damage to the wire. When crimped properly, you should be able to tug on the terminal without it pulling off the wire.
Plug your spade terminal onto the solenoid terminal. Verify the ignition is off, car is in park, parking brake set. Holding the insulated part of the wire, touch the stripped-and-twisted part of the wire to the positive battery post for half a second.
Nothing happens: the solenoid coil is bad or not grounded properly.
The starter clicks loudly once when you touch the wire and again when you move the wire away, but the starter does not spin: The solenoid coil is working, but the (internal) power contacts (similar to a relay) for the motor, the motor's brushes, motor's commutator ring, or one or more of the rotor windings is worn/damaged. Since it's an intermittent problem, I would bet brushes, windings or contacts in that order.
The starter runs: Let the engine and starter come to a complete stop, then try it again. See if you can get it to not work, then see the above. If it works consistently, your problem is with the car's wiring/devices.

 

I think I got my NEW starter from rock auto

WAI GLOBAL 30639N (New) Info
Mitsuba Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction
Starter Motor 09 / 27 / 2023 Shipped USD$154.33

and with basic GOOD handtools and ALOT of force, you can replace it yourself...your hands will bleed ...literally...disinfectant soon and a tetanus shot wouldn't hurt...i always keep mine up to date......who wants to die from a rusty nail in backcountry?

its a steel bolt in an aluminum part=oxidation=cursing and using never sieze upon installation so in 10 more years it will be easier!!


and again....its the starter...NOT the wiring...but there are issues with the solenoid connection.AT the starter ..some people ziptie it on ...i havent had to do that...just replaced starter when...you could tell it was the starter

i did actually save the original starter as is like a 5 dollar copper disc that is pucked...will i rebuild it?....for 154 USD every 10 years...probably not

 

I came into this thread late. Here are the relay diagrams I dug up when I was having this problem last spring. Replacing the starter worked for me.
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-...ml#post1479357

 

Thanks to everyone for the troubleshooting advice and starter replacement advice.
For the replacement option, I'm questioning buying an OEM re-manufactured part that has failed prematurely (as mine probably has) or buy a new 'knockoff' part.
Amazon has an A-Premium part for $100 that is new and with a quoted 1 year warranty - see link
Any thoughts ? Worth a chance?
Regards

 

i think that was EXACTLY the same box mine came in from rock auto!.....checked garage...its not...my box is mostly blue and white and says "WAI" on it....if the difference between amazon and rock auto is 40 dollars or less i would go with rock...other thoughts are i think mine truly had a copper stud, yours doent seem to.....MORE importantly yours doesnt seem to come with the nut.....there was some issue with that i had and i think i rember reading about...the nut is 12mm OR 13mm...so it was something like the stocknut wont work because the plastic collar doesnt let you use a 13mm wrench...or some other sort of minor but extremely whacky detail about the nut.....the nut is a bit of a bugger to get on also...you literally need to do it blind by feel


https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=4152&jsn=632