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never heard of them so i looked them up . they sound like the Harbor Freight of auto parts, except when it comes to auto parts- cheap is cheap. i don't know how many miles you have , but i figure rotors should last quite a long time especially if you keep up with changing the pads instead of waiting for them to go metal on metal. i changed my pads at 40k and probably had another year on them at least. the rotors are fine, as i expect with a vehicle that's only 2500lbs. i'd order rotors from Honda, you can save some money ordering from Benardi Honda. you can get decent pads from a place like auto zone or advance auto parts, just don't buy the cheapest ones. or you could order Honda pads, probably good for at least 50k
OK, I don't know what I was thinking, but yes, DA is mostly for a car you want to send down the road, so I went with Raybestos Element 3 which seem to get fairly good reviews and was only $20 more, and importantly, are coated (anti corrosion).
I have an expected problem: The pads fit too tightly due to the brackets' corrosion and I can't for the life of me find new ones, so I have to figure out how to grind out the corrosion. The pads were OEM. I bought the car 3 years ago with 57,000 miles, now at 65,000 miles and they had plenty of meat back then.
OK, I don't know what I was thinking, but yes, DA is mostly for a car you want to send down the road, so I went with Raybestos Element 3 which seem to get fairly good reviews and was only $20 more, and importantly, are coated (anti corrosion).
I have an expected problem: The pads fit too tightly due to the brackets' corrosion and I can't for the life of me find new ones, so I have to figure out how to grind out the corrosion. The pads were OEM. I bought the car 3 years ago with 57,000 miles, now at 65,000 miles and they had plenty of meat back then.
I also use the Element 3 coated rotors for (some) salt resistance.
A simple square-edge file is useful for cleaning up rusty caliper brackets while maintaining the proper profile where the pads fit.
That's right, a $3.99 file from Harbor Freight took care of the issue, finished with a wire brush (drill). File the bracket, not the pad tabs, or ' ears ' so you don't disturb the paint and preserve the smoothness between it and the stainless steel hardware surface. I used copper high heat Never Seize on both sides of the new hardware, not sure if it was the ideal lube for the application, but it was what I had on hand.
Something went wrong somewhere because I get the dreaded rotor vibration while braking .
I took apart everything again and cleaned all surfaces well, checked the pins and pads for free sliding, all functions correctly. Boxes and old rotors are in the trash, no possibility of return, just something to live with!
The good news is below 45 MPH it's nearly smooth, and since this is used as a so-called city car, it's not too bad, just disappointing. (Ever since I got it [used] it had vibration while braking at any speed, so there's a bit of improvement.)
Something went wrong somewhere because I get the dreaded rotor vibration while braking .
I took apart everything again and cleaned all surfaces well, checked the pins and pads for free sliding, all functions correctly. Boxes and old rotors are in the trash, no possibility of return, just something to live with!
The good news is below 45 MPH it's nearly smooth, and since this is used as a so-called city car, it's not too bad, just disappointing. (Ever since I got it [used] it had vibration while braking at any speed, so there's a bit of improvement.)
did you clean and live the caliper pins ? If you didn’t , one may be sticking. If you did , did you do it the proper way ? Only the sides on the pin shaft get line , never the tip which a lot of people do. Caliper grease does not compress , too much and on the caliper will not squeeze down evenly. Unfortunately if you did and have been driving for a while even if you corrected the grease issue you would need new pads since they worn uneven
