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I successfully replaced the injectors on my 2015 Fit today, I wanted to share some info since I was able to buy OEM injectors in a kit and saved over $800. Car has 156k miles.
The normal 4 injector set found in the parts diagram is over $1100, p/n 16010-5R1-315 . I couldn't find much information confirming the kit I purchased was compatible. I wanted to share that the kit I purchased is exactly what is required and includes the following:
High pressure fuel line from the high pressure pump to the fuel rail. Honda states this is single use and not reusable - 16012-5R1-3150
Polyethylene glycol- required for fuel line installation
4x injectors, with seals and o-rings preinstalled - 16010-5R1-3151
Seal from throttle body to intake manifold - 17107-5AA-004
In addition I replaced the intake manifold gasket and PCV valve, part numbers Fel-Pro MS97618 and Purolator PV1088 respectively (RockAuto)
The job wasn't particularly hard, remove airbox, intake manifold, foam cover over fuel rail, and then remove the fuel rail and injectors. Reassemble from there. I followed the instructions from page 3-6 of the warranty extension service bulletin found here- https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...08198-0001.pdf
So far power and fuel economy seem to have greatly improved. Original symptoms on the car were 4 error lights including TPMS light, traction light, electric power steering light, and check engine light. All of these lights showed up simultaneously with no previous issues. The following codes showed when the car was scanned:
U0401-68 ECM failure
P0171 System too lean
B00D5-15 Open or short to ground in front passenger airbag indicator
U1281 Gauge control module lost communication with BCM / MICU
U0416-68 VSA System Malfunction
Last edited by meie1kyl; Jan 5, 2026 at 11:27 AM.
Reason: resizing photos, correcting hyperlink
My question is how you even found this kit? $1000 is exactly what I saw more than a year ago on an entire kit. Now I click on your link and it says "contact for availability". Searching the part number, various other online honda dealers show "currently unavailable"
My question is how you even found this kit? $1000 is exactly what I saw more than a year ago on an entire kit. Now I click on your link and it says "contact for availability". Searching the part number, various other online honda dealers show "currently unavailable"
I saw someone else talked about this kit part number, I believe on Reddit. I did a ton of research trying to find more info on it and didn't find much info on this kit, included components, or fitment. I did find on the TSB's / warranty document I linked above, this kit p/n was referenced. I figured if Honda themselves called it out, it should be a safe bet.
I replace my injectors about 4 months ago (Nov 2025). I also used a "walnut blaster" to clean out the backside of my intake valves. Got the blaster from Harbor Freight for $40. Walnut shells from my brother, so free. Fuel mileage had dropped to 33-35 mpg max. After replacement, it went up to 42-45. My wife occasionally gets just over 50 on a 20 mile trip at about 55 mph. The temperature has to be about 60 deg or so for this to happen. The old injectors (175K miles) looked awful. Under magnification I could see that several of the ports on each injector (there are six) were completely blocked. The whole job took about 9 hours, but that includes lunch, a phone call or two, consulting with my wife, re-reading directions more than twice so I wouldn't screw up, retrieving a couple of screws I dropped onto the plastic shield below the motor (15 minutes, at least. Finally had to take off the plastic shield to find them. And Etc. You get the idea. Definitely a YMMV situation. But I am close to worst case in terms of time.
I got the injectors, seals, and special kit online from one of the "Genuine Honda Parts" sellers. It was a little over $300 for everything. The parts did seem to be genuine, and everything went together as expected. Perhaps the most annoying steps are threading the short fuel line piece that has to be replace up through other components, and installing the bolts on the bottom of the foam fuel line insulator. I had to use a mirror to get them in the right place. Annoyance along the way, but the result was amazing. Walnut blasting is not hard, but you do need to make a cover to allow you to insert the blaster while blocking the blowback. I used a small piece of cardboard cut to the right size. Easy to make. If you don't do this, granulated walnut shells will go everywhere. I had to pick at the grunge with a screw driver in addition to blasting to get things reasonably clean. There was a lot of gunk in there, and the flow pattern could not have been what Honda intended. You'll need a good tool set, patience, and some ingenuity to pull off this repair. But for an older Fit, this repair will make a huge difference in fuel economy. I don't put injector cleaner in very often (once a year, at best), and I use cheap gas, so you might need this less than I did. Cheers!
Last edited by Brian Jones; Feb 6, 2026 at 02:24 AM.
I replace my injectors about 4 months ago (Nov 2025). I also used a "walnut blaster" to clean out the backside of my intake valves. Got the blaster from Harbor Freight for $40. Walnut shells from my brother, so free. Fuel mileage had dropped to 33-35 mpg max. After replacement, it went up to 42-45. My wife occasionally gets just over 50 on a 20 mile trip at about 55 mph. The temperature has to be about 60 deg or so for this to happen. The old injectors (175K miles) looked awful. Under magnification I could see that several of the ports on each injector (there are six) were completely blocked. The whole job took about 9 hours, but that includes lunch, a phone call or two, consulting with my wife, re-reading directions more than twice so I wouldn't screw up, retrieving a couple of screws I dropped onto the plastic shield below the motor (15 minutes, at least. Finally had to take off the plastic shield to find them. And Etc. You get the idea. Definitely a YMMV situation. But I am close to worst case in terms of time.
I got the injectors, seals, and special kit online from one of the "Genuine Honda Parts" sellers. It was a little over $300 for everything. The parts did seem to be genuine, and everything went together as expected. Perhaps the most annoying steps are threading the short fuel line piece that has to be replace up through other components, and installing the bolts on the bottom of the foam fuel line insulator. I had to use a mirror to get them in the right place. Annoyance along the way, but the result was amazing. Walnut blasting is not hard, but you do need to make a cover to allow you to insert the blaster while blocking the blowback. I used a small piece of cardboard cut to the right size. Easy to make. If you don't do this, granulated walnut shells will go everywhere. I had to pick at the grunge with a screw driver in addition to blasting to get things reasonably clean. There was a lot of gunk in there, and the flow pattern could not have been what Honda intended. You'll need a good tool set, patience, and some ingenuity to pull off this repair. But for an older Fit, this repair will make a huge difference in fuel economy. I don't put injector cleaner in very often (once a year, at best), and I use cheap gas, so you might need this less than I did. Cheers!
What year is your car and did you use the same part number as the original poster here? 16010-5R1-3151
The temperature has to be about 60 deg or so for this to happen.
It's well known that it takes fuel to run the A/C compressor, but the heater can suck fuel as well, especially in cold weather. The cabin heater can pull enough heat from the engine to keep it in low-temperature warm-up mode (sort of the engine's version of shivering). During warm-up the engine maintains higher RPM and runs slightly rich, burning more fuel to generate more heat.
Abstaining from A/C or the heater (temperature knob set to cold, A/C button off, not using either of the windshield positions which automatically turn on A/C) should get you back to the high 40's MPG, if you can tolerate it. The engine should have some waste heat to give. It's a matter of figuring out how much is available for your driving conditions... The Fit's lack of instrumentation doesn't help. Use the heater dial sparingly and as much recirculate as you can without fogging the windows (slider in the middle or maybe 2/3 recirculate).
What year is your car and did you use the same part number as the original poster here? 16010-5R1-3151
For my 2015 injector replacement job:
From Honda Car Parts Direct
Part Number 06160-5R1-000 Injector Kit Fuel
$271.34 Shipping: $28.81 Discount: -$13.57 Total: $286.58
I also got a gasket for the throttle body from another source for under $10. I should have gotten an intake manifold gasket because I had to take it off to do the walnut blasting behind the intake valves. But I forgot, so I used the old one. It seems to be working fine. I found a lot of oil in the intake manifold and guessed it was due to a poorly functioning PCV valve, so I replaced that, too.
Got 42 mpg on interstate 5 between Corvallis and Portland, going about 70.The temp was 60 degrees. Thanks to the person who explained about the effect of temp. I knew the AC reduced mpg, but it had not occurred to me that the heater could have an effect. i think 65-70- degrees is the sweet spot for gas economy in my Fit.
Hope this helps someone else.
The A/C should not come on automatically with the heat. My dial (2015) has printed on it to use A/C switch when using the defrost settings. But anyway back on topic, 175,000 miles on cheap gas is not too unreasonable.
and I use cheap gas, so you might need this less than I did. Cheers!
Are you suggesting using better quality fuel will prevent/reduce the need for this service?
Originally Posted by nayov
The A/C should not come on automatically with the heat. My dial (2015) has printed on it to use A/C switch when using the defrost settings.
When you turn the dial from "floor" towards the "floor and defrost" setting, you'll hear a slight audible "click" about half way.
This is when the a/c automatically kicks in to remove the condensation from the air and defog/demist the inside of the windows.
No need to press the "a/c" button.
For my 2015 injector replacement job:
From Honda Car Parts Direct
Part Number 06160-5R1-000 Injector Kit Fuel
$271.34 Shipping: $28.81 Discount: -$13.57 Total: $286.58
I also got a gasket for the throttle body from another source for under $10. I should have gotten an intake manifold gasket because I had to take it off to do the walnut blasting behind the intake valves. But I forgot, so I used the old one. It seems to be working fine. I found a lot of oil in the intake manifold and guessed it was due to a poorly functioning PCV valve, so I replaced that, too.
Got 42 mpg on interstate 5 between Corvallis and Portland, going about 70.The temp was 60 degrees. Thanks to the person who explained about the effect of temp. I knew the AC reduced mpg, but it had not occurred to me that the heater could have an effect. i think 65-70- degrees is the sweet spot for gas economy in my Fit.
Hope this helps someone else.
I wonder why the massive price difference between 06160-5R1-000 and 16010-5R1-315. And 16010-5R1-315 doesn't even include the joint pipe.
I also came across a thread on Reddit that 06160-5R1-000 only works for older Fits and not the newer ones, and that the newer ones require software update also
The A/C should not come on automatically with the heat. My dial (2015) has printed on it to use A/C switch when using the defrost settings.
There could have been a mid-run change and/or trim related.
Originally Posted by FitFun1979
When you turn the dial from "floor" towards the "floor and defrost" setting, you'll hear a slight audible "click" about half way.
Our 2020 EX has the switch (also audible), which shows up on HVAC wiring diagrams. I haven't gone looking for pics of it but I'm 80% sure it's just an off-the-shelf limit switch, screwed to the mode dial mechanicals. The HVAC system as a whole is pretty "dumb". The defog-mode switch is wired in parallel with the A/C switch - the indicator light on the A/C switch is the only functional difference between the two. Either one can trigger the A/C system, nothing (but the light) can tell the difference. It should be possible to unplug the mode dial switch to get manual control without otherwise affecting the system.
I successfully replaced the injectors on my 2015 Fit today, I wanted to share some info since I was able to buy OEM injectors in a kit and saved over $800. Car has 156k miles.
The normal 4 injector set found in the parts diagram is over $1100, p/n 16010-5R1-315 . I couldn't find much information confirming the kit I purchased was compatible. I wanted to share that the kit I purchased is exactly what is required and includes the following:
High pressure fuel line from the high pressure pump to the fuel rail. Honda states this is single use and not reusable - 16012-5R1-3150
Polyethylene glycol- required for fuel line installation
4x injectors, with seals and o-rings preinstalled - 16010-5R1-3151
Seal from throttle body to intake manifold - 17107-5AA-004
In addition I replaced the intake manifold gasket and PCV valve, part numbers Fel-Pro MS97618 and Purolator PV1088 respectively (RockAuto)
The job wasn't particularly hard, remove airbox, intake manifold, foam cover over fuel rail, and then remove the fuel rail and injectors. Reassemble from there. I followed the instructions from page 3-6 of the warranty extension service bulletin found here- https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...08198-0001.pdf
So far power and fuel economy seem to have greatly improved. Original symptoms on the car were 4 error lights including TPMS light, traction light, electric power steering light, and check engine light. All of these lights showed up simultaneously with no previous issues. The following codes showed when the car was scanned:
U0401-68 ECM failure
P0171 System too lean
B00D5-15 Open or short to ground in front passenger airbag indicator
U1281 Gauge control module lost communication with BCM / MICU
Gasoline is a bit more complicated than that. Different brands each use their own base formulations and additive packages - additives such as detergents that reduce coking (carbon build-up). Chevron for instance has made a big deal out of their "Techron" additive (also available in bottles) which is one of the few additives shown to actually clean fuel system deposits (specifically, fix fuel injector spray patterns). The "Top Tier" gas group similarly markets their fuels on having more engine-cleaning additives than required, though it's pretty vague.