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There could have been a mid-run change and/or trim related.
Our 2020 EX has the switch (also audible), which shows up on HVAC wiring diagrams. I haven't gone looking for pics of it but I'm 80% sure it's just an off-the-shelf limit switch, screwed to the mode dial mechanicals. The HVAC system as a whole is pretty "dumb". The defog-mode switch is wired in parallel with the A/C switch - the indicator light on the A/C switch is the only functional difference between the two. Either one can trigger the A/C system, nothing (but the light) can tell the difference. It should be possible to unplug the mode dial switch to get manual control without otherwise affecting the system.
It's a simple microswitch behind the blend knob in the HVAC controls. I disconnected the switch so I can control when the AC is used. In my opinion, it's pointless to use the AC in defrost mode when temps are below freezing, no need to remove humidity at that point.
In my opinion, it's pointless to use the AC in defrost mode when temps are below freezing, no need to remove humidity at that point.
Mostly agreed. If the HVAC is set to recirculate (to retain heat in the cold) then humidity can get high enough to collect on the cold windows. If it's set to fresh air, humidity isn't a problem, and the A/C evaporator will probably never get warm enough to turn on the compressor, but you're losing a lot of engine heat to warming up that freezing cold fresh air.
I don't know whether cheap gas causes earlier injectors fouling. My comment was off-hand and uninformed by any research or special knowledge. Just a guess.
I don't know whether cheap gas causes earlier injectors fouling. My comment was off-hand and uninformed by any research or special knowledge. Just a guess.
Fair, this is a common enough issue on this generation that there's a TSB about it so it may not be entirely caused by gasoline quality
I successfully replaced the injectors on my 2015 Fit today, I wanted to share some info since I was able to buy OEM injectors in a kit and saved over $800. Car has 156k miles.
The normal 4 injector set found in the parts diagram is over $1100, p/n 16010-5R1-315 . I couldn't find much information confirming the kit I purchased was compatible. I wanted to share that the kit I purchased is exactly what is required and includes the following:
High pressure fuel line from the high pressure pump to the fuel rail. Honda states this is single use and not reusable - 16012-5R1-3150
Polyethylene glycol- required for fuel line installation
4x injectors, with seals and o-rings preinstalled - 16010-5R1-3151
Seal from throttle body to intake manifold - 17107-5AA-004
In addition I replaced the intake manifold gasket and PCV valve, part numbers Fel-Pro MS97618 and Purolator PV1088 respectively (RockAuto)
The job wasn't particularly hard, remove airbox, intake manifold, foam cover over fuel rail, and then remove the fuel rail and injectors. Reassemble from there. I followed the instructions from page 3-6 of the warranty extension service bulletin found here- https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...08198-0001.pdf
So far power and fuel economy seem to have greatly improved. Original symptoms on the car were 4 error lights including TPMS light, traction light, electric power steering light, and check engine light. All of these lights showed up simultaneously with no previous issues. The following codes showed when the car was scanned:
U0401-68 ECM failure
P0171 System too lean
B00D5-15 Open or short to ground in front passenger airbag indicator
U1281 Gauge control module lost communication with BCM / MICU
