Alright, so I'm going a different route than most fitfreakers. I'm running nitrous for power. Partly because turbo options on the GE are limited, and partly because up front costs are cheaper. What I currently have is limited to this kit produced by Zex Nirtrous http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=ZX&Product_Cod e=82314&Category_Code=

Let me also explain that I AM A NOOB. Yes, in the truest since of the word. I thought I could just buy this kit and slap it on for more HP and that was that. As I have learned, it is a good START to implementing NOS, but not all I will need. Now, I am just trying to learn what needs to be done to effectively run this kit and I need your help (if you know what you're talking about, of course). I'll explain what I do know. Let's start with the good. Zex has one of the safest and easiest nitrous systems out there. The nitrous only engages at WOT thanks to the management unit learning the TPS voltage curve and sensing WOT. Additionally, the enrichment fuel is placed directly inside the high-speed nitrous oxide plume exiting the nozzle. This results in the most complete atomization of enrichment fuel possible. Super-fine atomization of enrichment fuel ensures maximum horsepower and eliminates fuel puddling that can cause intake backfires.

Now for the bad. It does not have a bottle warmer. Without this, pressure is not maintained in the bottle on cold days and nitrous/fuel mix becomes to rich with fuel which not only minimalizes power gains, it also leads the ECU to cut fuel supply to keep from backfiring. Along the same lines, there is no way to monitor fuel supply/pressure. If ample fuel fails to get into the cylinder with the nitrous due to an overworked fuel pump or faulty inkectors, you could be looking at a melted engine block and/or engine components. Finally, the kit lacks a switch to control what rpm range nitrous is engaged. This could be catastrophic on either side of the rpm band, and I think the Fit's optimal range is 2,500 to 6,500 rpm.

So then, immediate purchases will include a bottle warmer, fuel pressure gauge, and a TC Window Switch (to control rpm range). More distant but necessary purchases will include an EFI Booster Fuel Pump Kit and possibly new injectors. Other "not necessarily necessary" purchases I plan to make in the future include a remote bottle opener and a purge kit.

When it comes down to it, I just want to make sure I'm implementing nitrous in the safest way possible. If something's going to happen, I don't want it to be something I could've avoided. This kit is installed, but for now, I am NOT running this kit and will not do so until I have all necessary components in place. Any advice or help you can offer is greatly appreciated. If I'm understanding something wrong, or you think I should add something to my list, please LMK!

Thanks,
baylorbro

 

ok, your going to need:
- fuel pressure safety switch. it does exactly what you need without needing a guage. it goes in line with your supply fuel line and if it senses that the fuel pressure is dropping, cuts the main power to the nitrous kit.

-bottle heater isnt actually necessary, especially in texas. but if you want optimal perforance, you mind as well sepnd the $100 and get it.

-RPM window switch. you are running a zex brain which i HATE and would not of recommended..but it does include teh throttle position switch, so you wont need to purchase that. the rpm window switch will signal the nitrous to go on and off automoaticall at RPM's that you set. by the way,saw in your toher thread that you are spraying at 2500 RPM's....thats too soon. make it more liek 3500 to be safe.

-purge kit. most people think its for show, but actually it is to remove and air that gets into the nitrous lines. there is always air in them if not used for a littel while. it also is used to remove pressure from the lines when not spraying. constant pressure on the solenoids will cause premature failure.
^^all of the above parts can be bought from www.dynotunenitrous.com . i got all of my parts fromt ehre when i was spraying my Si and had no problems. soem of their parts are actually the same as zex, just rebranded.

if you want to be extra cautious, get a a/f gauge. this is the most usefull of any gauge that you can get to make sure your car is never running too lean which will cause major engine failure.
i DO NOT recoemend the AEM wideband. get the innovate lm1 or lm-2.

new fuel pump and larger injectors are 100% not necessary. your not putting that much extra strain on teh fule pump, and injectors are not effected by a nitrous wet kit. the "wet" is teh fuel...meaning any extra fuel that is needed during spraying is provided by the fogger jet.

 

just to add a one more thing.... most common failure with nitrous is when it puddles up in the intake manifold and eventually ignites casuing the intake manifold to explode. to try and prevent this, make sure the fogger is positioned perfectly directly facing the throttle body and is not being blocked by anything (not sparying to the side of the intake pipe)

 

my aem wideband works just fine.. also you may want to get a way to tune it(greddy or aem) and colder plugs like the denso ik22

 

Thanks for answering Nighthawksi. That fuel pressure safety switch sounds like exactly what I was looking for... not sure if zex sells one, if so I missed it. I was trying to do all Zex parts, but can use others I guess.

The bottle warmer is necessary in Texas... at least in wintertime, so far the times that I have run it, <50degrees seems to be poor pressure.

There is one thing more I'm worried about now that you mention it. The K&N intake has a place for the MAF sensor on the intake pipe... on the inside of the pipe there is a "wall" that cuts into the pipe where this sensor sits. I could not tap the nitrous bewtween the MAF sesnor and TB, and had to put it inbetween the sensor and filter, thus possibly spraying into that portion. I think it's far back enough not to cause pooling, but I'm not sure. Thoughts? I can take pictures if you need a visual.

dewthedew - I got some cold plugs from Zex and installed them with the kit. This was a strong recommendation from Zex, they were just too cheap to include them in the kit, haha. After doing more reading, yes colder plugs are absolutely necessary.

Also, do I really need to have it tuned? I thought that's what the management unit was for... adjusts spark timing, etc. I could be wrong though, and I'm open to more knwoledge.

 

i would definatly recomend moving the fogger. you do not want to spray nitrous and fuel over the MAF sensor. put it between the sensor and throttle body.

 

Damn... ok. Well I really don't think I can get it past that sensor... I've been thinking about getting a new intake anyway. This will be a good excuse.

 

Yeah get a new intake and properly position the fogger. I really dont think the zex unit does anything as far as tuning goes. For the most power Id get the aem f/ic and have it tuned on a dyno so you know exactly how its running.

 

Does anyone know at what psi the GE fuel system runs? I'm looking at fuel pressure safety switches, and there are all different kinds. Ex. There's one that is adjustable between 4# and 7# and then one adjustable between 25# and 50#.

 

Damn it appears quality a/f gauges are expensive.

 

you should have just bought a Z I know I wish I would have. The realities of the expense of performance is starting to hit me.

 

lol then I wouldnt have my sleeper ability!

 

When i first bought the car I was thinking the same thing: NOS or FI. I've changed my game plan alot. My only goal now is to start paying off the fit as fast as possible so I can have a reliable DD from now until 2053. Then I can get a used s2000, z, stang etc.

 

Solid game plan, sir!

 

just get an aem wideband.. ive never had a problem with mine. they can be had for $180-220 on ebay any day.