Please Post Directions
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 3,255
From: Shokan, NY
Please Post Directions
Several months ago, there was a lengthy thread about repairing the right-hand instrument cluster display. Because of bad soldering, the display sometimes gets dim or goes blank. People posted great directions about removing, soldering, and reinstalling the cluster. I know I had saved all of that, but I can't find it. If anyone could post that info, I'd be grateful.
After working fine for months, my display - mileage and fuel level - went blank a couple of days ago.
After working fine for months, my display - mileage and fuel level - went blank a couple of days ago.
Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,058
From: New Mexico
Member
Joined: Nov 2024
Posts: 553
From: Delaware
I haven't watched those videos - but having done lots of electronics rework professionally, remove as much of the old solder as possible. The solder joints cracked because the specific solder alloy they used is too brittle. Get rid of as much of it as practical and apply something else. Just adding flux and re-flowing the original solder will not fix the root problem, it may not even fix the cracked joint.
There's lots of different solder alloys, but 60/40 or 63/37 tin/lead (optionally with a few percent silver) is considered the gold-standard by most hobbyists. RoHS regulations understandably prohibit its use in production electronics because of its (substantial) lead content. Electronics manufacturers have come up with some more exotic RoHS-compliant metal mixtures in search of an ideal substitute (strength, ductility, melting temperature, electrical conductivity, metal wetting, surface tension, corrosion stability, crystallization properties, and of course cost - it's complicated).
Back on point, the original solder alloy was mechanically not up to task. Remove it and replace it with something that is. Rosin-core tin/lead (Sn/Pb) should work nicely, the stuff with ~2% silver (Ag) has even better mechanical strength and fatigue resistance (an inadequacy of one or both of those probably caused the cracks in the original solder joints).
As for removing the solder, I'll suggest a plunger-style desoldering iron. Not just a plunger-type tool, but one with a hot tip that plugs in and melts solder on its own. I have a "Tenma Desoldering Tool" that works well enough, especially considering its $20 price tag. Desoldering stations with the pump in the base are problematic, as the long hose out to the hand piece slows the vacuum ramp-up. Pump-in-the-hand-piece is the way to go.
A temperature-controlled soldering iron can save a lot of time, headache, and even circuit board damage. I hear the Pinecil has great bang-for-your-buck. There's lots of similar products out there though (small handle with OLED display and a few buttons, accepts 12-24V DC, USB-PD, or battery pack for power) - keep an eye on the price of the tips, as they have the heater built in. If you want something more substantial, Hakko and Weller both make excellent entry-level soldering stations, as well as professional units.
There's lots of different solder alloys, but 60/40 or 63/37 tin/lead (optionally with a few percent silver) is considered the gold-standard by most hobbyists. RoHS regulations understandably prohibit its use in production electronics because of its (substantial) lead content. Electronics manufacturers have come up with some more exotic RoHS-compliant metal mixtures in search of an ideal substitute (strength, ductility, melting temperature, electrical conductivity, metal wetting, surface tension, corrosion stability, crystallization properties, and of course cost - it's complicated).
Back on point, the original solder alloy was mechanically not up to task. Remove it and replace it with something that is. Rosin-core tin/lead (Sn/Pb) should work nicely, the stuff with ~2% silver (Ag) has even better mechanical strength and fatigue resistance (an inadequacy of one or both of those probably caused the cracks in the original solder joints).
As for removing the solder, I'll suggest a plunger-style desoldering iron. Not just a plunger-type tool, but one with a hot tip that plugs in and melts solder on its own. I have a "Tenma Desoldering Tool" that works well enough, especially considering its $20 price tag. Desoldering stations with the pump in the base are problematic, as the long hose out to the hand piece slows the vacuum ramp-up. Pump-in-the-hand-piece is the way to go.
A temperature-controlled soldering iron can save a lot of time, headache, and even circuit board damage. I hear the Pinecil has great bang-for-your-buck. There's lots of similar products out there though (small handle with OLED display and a few buttons, accepts 12-24V DC, USB-PD, or battery pack for power) - keep an eye on the price of the tips, as they have the heater built in. If you want something more substantial, Hakko and Weller both make excellent entry-level soldering stations, as well as professional units.
Last edited by bobski; Apr 10, 2026 at 11:53 AM.
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 3,255
From: Shokan, NY
I haven't watched those videos - but having done lots of electronics rework professionally, remove as much of the old solder as possible. The solder joints cracked because the specific solder alloy they used is too brittle. Get rid of as much of it as practical and apply something else. Just adding flux and re-flowing the original solder will not fix the root problem, it may not even fix the cracked joint.
There's lots of different solder alloys, but 60/40 or 63/37 tin/lead (optionally with a few percent silver) is considered the gold-standard by most hobbyists. RoHS regulations understandably prohibit its use in production electronics because of its (substantial) lead content. Electronics manufacturers have come up with some more exotic RoHS-compliant metal mixtures in search of an ideal substitute (strength, ductility, melting temperature, electrical conductivity, metal wetting, surface tension, corrosion stability, crystallization properties, and of course cost - it's complicated).
Back on point, the original solder alloy was mechanically not up to task. Remove it and replace it with something that is. Rosin-core tin/lead (Sn/Pb) should work nicely, the stuff with ~2% silver (Ag) has even better mechanical strength and fatigue resistance (an inadequacy of one or both of those probably caused the cracks in the original solder joints).
As for removing the solder, I'll suggest a plunger-style desoldering iron. Not just a plunger-type tool, but one with a hot tip that plugs in and melts solder on its own. I have a "Tenma Desoldering Tool" that works well enough, especially considering its $20 price tag. Desoldering stations with the pump in the base are problematic, as the long hose out to the hand piece slows the vacuum ramp-up. Pump-in-the-hand-piece is the way to go.
A temperature-controlled soldering iron can save a lot of time, headache, and even circuit board damage. I hear the Pinecil has great bang-for-your-buck. There's lots of similar products out there though (small handle with OLED display and a few buttons, accepts 12-24V DC, USB-PD, or battery pack for power) - keep an eye on the price of the tips, as they have the heater built in. If you want something more substantial, Hakko and Weller both make excellent entry-level soldering stations, as well as professional units.
There's lots of different solder alloys, but 60/40 or 63/37 tin/lead (optionally with a few percent silver) is considered the gold-standard by most hobbyists. RoHS regulations understandably prohibit its use in production electronics because of its (substantial) lead content. Electronics manufacturers have come up with some more exotic RoHS-compliant metal mixtures in search of an ideal substitute (strength, ductility, melting temperature, electrical conductivity, metal wetting, surface tension, corrosion stability, crystallization properties, and of course cost - it's complicated).
Back on point, the original solder alloy was mechanically not up to task. Remove it and replace it with something that is. Rosin-core tin/lead (Sn/Pb) should work nicely, the stuff with ~2% silver (Ag) has even better mechanical strength and fatigue resistance (an inadequacy of one or both of those probably caused the cracks in the original solder joints).
As for removing the solder, I'll suggest a plunger-style desoldering iron. Not just a plunger-type tool, but one with a hot tip that plugs in and melts solder on its own. I have a "Tenma Desoldering Tool" that works well enough, especially considering its $20 price tag. Desoldering stations with the pump in the base are problematic, as the long hose out to the hand piece slows the vacuum ramp-up. Pump-in-the-hand-piece is the way to go.
A temperature-controlled soldering iron can save a lot of time, headache, and even circuit board damage. I hear the Pinecil has great bang-for-your-buck. There's lots of similar products out there though (small handle with OLED display and a few buttons, accepts 12-24V DC, USB-PD, or battery pack for power) - keep an eye on the price of the tips, as they have the heater built in. If you want something more substantial, Hakko and Weller both make excellent entry-level soldering stations, as well as professional units.
When I eventually get around to doing this, I'll post about it.
Member
Joined: Nov 2024
Posts: 553
From: Delaware
The desoldering iron is very much like the a plunger-style solder sucker. It just eliminates the race when melting the solder with the iron, then getting the sucker in place on the solder joint before it solidifies. It makes the iron and the sucker the same tool.
Wick can also work, but you'll be spending a lot more time with the circuit board at molten solder temperatures, waiting for the solder to flow into the wick. Use the widest tip that will fit in your work area on the PCB, as it will carry heat from the iron heater to the wick and PCB faster. Though really that advice stands for soldering in general.
Wick can also work, but you'll be spending a lot more time with the circuit board at molten solder temperatures, waiting for the solder to flow into the wick. Use the widest tip that will fit in your work area on the PCB, as it will carry heat from the iron heater to the wick and PCB faster. Though really that advice stands for soldering in general.
Member
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 146
From: ME
Wow, what mess. Looks like there are services that repair for $170 (quick search). I can't see the average Joe (me) doing this without wrecking the circuit board. I'm DIY almost 100%, but I know my limits and risk tolerances.
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 3,255
From: Shokan, NY
The desoldering iron is very much like the a plunger-style solder sucker. It just eliminates the race when melting the solder with the iron, then getting the sucker in place on the solder joint before it solidifies. It makes the iron and the sucker the same tool.
Wick can also work, but you'll be spending a lot more time with the circuit board at molten solder temperatures, waiting for the solder to flow into the wick. Use the widest tip that will fit in your work area on the PCB, as it will carry heat from the iron heater to the wick and PCB faster. Though really that advice stands for soldering in general.
Wick can also work, but you'll be spending a lot more time with the circuit board at molten solder temperatures, waiting for the solder to flow into the wick. Use the widest tip that will fit in your work area on the PCB, as it will carry heat from the iron heater to the wick and PCB faster. Though really that advice stands for soldering in general.
Member
Joined: Nov 2024
Posts: 553
From: Delaware
That's around twice what I would consider to be a "fair" price for the job. With professional tooling, you're looking at maybe 5 minutes of actual rework time. The rest would be disassembly, reassembly, and presumably testing of the cluster. Find a local shop, bring them the cluster opened up with the solder joints exposed, ideally marked. Reassemble and test your self (plug it in to the car). I would be surprised if they charged you more than $50.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post