While driving home from the dealer on Monday, the TPMS light came on. I checked the tire pressures when I got home, and one was 29.5, while the others were 33.5. Now they're all the same, but the light is still on. I've pressed the TPMS button, but that hasn't helped. Suggestions?

 

I think you have to press and hold till it resets, did you do that?

It says make sure car is in park or or parking brake set. Press and hold the TPMS button until the low tire pressure indicator blinks twice. Calibration begins and will finish automatically.

 

Press and hold til the TPMS light flashes and then goes off. I replaced a tire (still not happy about that, less than 2 weeks old when replaced :/ ) You can do it in drive at a complete stop also.

 

Another suggestion is to look at the tire that was low on PSI. Is there a nail, screw, etc? Is it still loosing pressure and thus tripping the TPMS?

 

I would be it is not at all uncommon to have to re calibrate. I had to do mine when I picked it up and I know others have said the same thing. Although it is always good practice to inspect the offending tire just for SaG's

 

while stopped, press the TPMS button on the lower driver side knee panel. It is tucked under there, I didn't see it at first. Hold the button until the light blinks and goes out.
Then drive for about 10 minutes to recalibrate.

I have had to reset mine twice because the same tire keeps losing air.

I always wondered since this car uses speed differential over an axle, if you recalibrate and drive in circles, when you drive straight would it go off again

 

Thanks. I tried it while I was driving. It went off and came back on. Then I tried all combinations of pressing it while standing still. Something finally worked because it's off now. All tires had the exact same pressure, so I thought it would turn off by itself. I had the car in Park, and I think the engine was running (or maybe not) when it finally stayed off.

 

Yes it would, but I'll leave it to you to calculate how small of a circle you would have to drive around for several minutes to fool the calibration!

 

Why do you even have to do all this? It should just go out on it's own after you drive a 1/2 mile or so after you fill it back up. Or is this a new "feature" Honda added to the GK?

 

For me I didn't have to fill anything back up. The sensor came on in my car after the first 30 miles or so. I had just bought the thing the day before and thought I already had a flat tire. I pulled over and checked all the tire pressures. Each one was above the recommended pressure (as expected, I had been driving), but each one was within a few tenths of each other. I followed the instructions in the manual to reset it. I haven't heard or seen anything from it since. I either broke it, turned it off, or fixed it. I guess I won't know until I have a flat tire?

 

The tire pressure system is an all-new system compared to the previous gen so I am not sure what you're referencing.

 

So on the 2nd gen if one of your tires was low, the TPMS light would come on, you'd fill it up, drive for about half a mile and it'd go off.

What is this about calibration and resets and buttons, etc? I am just trying to decipher the difference and any improvement this new system made for my own information.

 

Well, I believe that most cars including 2nd gen had the system where each tire has a sensor that communicates directly with the computer. Many problems with this and sensors are expensive, so new systems just monitor all the tires at once and alerts you when all or some are too low by the difference between them? Something like that I don't know the technicalities.

 

Each tire would still require it's own sensor though.

I mean if it's a way to detect sensor codes and recalibrating through resetting with on-dash button, without using a separate tool or the deflate/inflate recalibration method like on the GE, that's exciting. You could have two sets of wheels (summer/winter, or whatever) with different sensor IDs and not have to recalibrate and reprogram using a Quikset that'd be nice.

Maybe that's hoping for too much, it's probably just an easier way to recalibrate. I haven't had to do that yet on mine at all though but I know some people had issues with it on the GE.

Anyone?

 

The TPMS light will reset after you reach a speed of 28 MPH or above. The light will turn on if you have to much or to little pressure in one or all 4 tires. Base model fits with steel wheels require 32PSI, and sport alloy wheels require 33 to 34. It is also a good idea to set the tire pressure 2 pounds above the recommended pressure.

 

There are no sensors in any of the wheels.

This is a much cheaper TPMS system that is technically not as accurate.

Basically, it measures average rotatational speed across an axle, axle being a term not literally meaning a physical axle of course.

So the two rear tires are turning. When driving straight (which is most of the time), the tires turn as the same rate. When one goes flat, the increased resistance to turning causes that side to turn slightly slower (or is it faster because the outer diameter is slightly less?). Either way the system detects the difference and turns on the light.
The reason its slightly less accurate, is because it relies on a delta between two wheels on the axle (the front and back are monitored separately). If both tires in the rear lose the same amount of air... no TMPS light (from normal leakage, which happens over time).

Calibration just tares the sensors to zero so it knows what "normal" rotational delta is.

This is opposed to in-wheel TMPS sensors, which have a battery shelf life (a long one usually) that communicate actual in-tire pressure to a sensor in the wheelwell, that translates to pressure data per wheel, and thus can alert you if there is low pressure in each wheel independently. Obviously depends on what TPMS system you are running, and how it displays that data.

 

Perfect, thank you very much

 

So you CAN have two sets of wheels? Changing wheels and tires doesn't require anything special? just swap and recalibrate?

 

As per manual......

The calibration process requires approximately 30 minutes of cumulative driving at speeds between 30-60 mph (48-97 km/h).
• During this period, if the ignition is turned on*1 and the vehicle is not moved within 45 seconds, you may notice the low tire pressure/TPMS indicator comes on briefly. This is normal and indicates that the calibration process is not yet complete.

 

That would seem to be the case if there are no sensors in the wheels

Although the system as a whole is less effective (IMO) I would rather have this system than my GE8's. But I check my tire pressures regularly.

If you are not one of those people, the new system could pose problems for normal deflation due to temperature changes, etc, since all the tires will lose air at the same rate. Or so it seems that way to me from the description above.