15.264@90.80mph
#1
15.264@90.80mph
Track: Cecil County Raceway
Date: 11-14-14
Time: 8:30pm
Temp: 37F
Mods: PRM Cold Air intake, 2.5"-2.25" Custom Exhaust, Maxbored Throttle Body, Some weight removed
15.264@90.80mph
Times during the night:
15.384@91.60mph
15.315@91.12mph
15.513@90.20mph
15.264@90.80mph
15.330@90.96mph
15.504@91.60mph
Guys!?! We are barely touching on 14 second 1/4 mile times. In an automatic. A CVT automatic! The cat converters haven't been removed yet (Not Condoned). No tuning either! These 2015 Fits are AWESOME!
**Interesting note**
I really don't like talking about hypothetical situations but I must say this. Here is a look at the 60ft times in order of the runs -->
2.397
2.384
2.412
2.407
2.419
2.402
IF we could cut a 2.1-2.2 60ft time, you know what that would mean right?
Date: 11-14-14
Time: 8:30pm
Temp: 37F
Mods: PRM Cold Air intake, 2.5"-2.25" Custom Exhaust, Maxbored Throttle Body, Some weight removed
15.264@90.80mph
Times during the night:
15.384@91.60mph
15.315@91.12mph
15.513@90.20mph
15.264@90.80mph
15.330@90.96mph
15.504@91.60mph
Guys!?! We are barely touching on 14 second 1/4 mile times. In an automatic. A CVT automatic! The cat converters haven't been removed yet (Not Condoned). No tuning either! These 2015 Fits are AWESOME!
**Interesting note**
I really don't like talking about hypothetical situations but I must say this. Here is a look at the 60ft times in order of the runs -->
2.397
2.384
2.412
2.407
2.419
2.402
IF we could cut a 2.1-2.2 60ft time, you know what that would mean right?
Last edited by Myxalplyx; 11-15-2014 at 09:49 PM.
#2
Track: Cecil County Raceway
Time: 8:30pm
Temp: 37F
Date: 11-14-14
Mods: PRM Cold Air intake, 2.5"-2.25" Custom Exhaust, Maxbored Throttle Body, Some weight removed
15.264@90.80mph
Times during the night:
15.384@91.60mph
15.315@91.12mph
15.513@90.20mph
15.264@90.80mph
15.330@90.96mph
15.504@91.60mph
Guys!?! We are barely touching on 14 second 1/4 mile times. In an automatic. A CVT automatic! I haven't even removed the cats yet. No tuning either! These 2015 Fits are AWESOME!
Time: 8:30pm
Temp: 37F
Date: 11-14-14
Mods: PRM Cold Air intake, 2.5"-2.25" Custom Exhaust, Maxbored Throttle Body, Some weight removed
15.264@90.80mph
Times during the night:
15.384@91.60mph
15.315@91.12mph
15.513@90.20mph
15.264@90.80mph
15.330@90.96mph
15.504@91.60mph
Guys!?! We are barely touching on 14 second 1/4 mile times. In an automatic. A CVT automatic! I haven't even removed the cats yet. No tuning either! These 2015 Fits are AWESOME!
1 Are you tripple tapping the throttle for that time or double tapping?
2 Have you found the optimal speeds to initiate the taps to get the rpms to peak horsepower the quickest (I assume that's where you're making gains.
3 Is this with standard air pressure and stock tires, or are you running something aftermarket?
4 How extensive was the weight reduction? Rear seat still in?
5 do you have a video of your runs? Would love to see!
#3
Curb weight is 2360lbs. HERE!
Rear seats are removed.
It's an in car video. I usually record all my runs but it's nothing to see really. On the video, it says I'm running 15.5.
#5
That is very quick for a CVT FIT! I bought my FIT for gas economy and space. I was a drag race guy in my younger days, 62, 66 (427), 76, and 79 Corvettes although the 76 and 79 were NOT FAST! Last sporty cars were 2001 and 2006 Miata's and 2012 V6 Mustang. I just drive with the econ on now. I do wish there was a simple bolt on cold air intake for the FIT. Best wishes for your continued success in doing what you like. Bill LX CVT
#6
Tripple (or more) tapping.
As soon as I floor the car. But the optimal times in between the taps, I'm still working on. Things seem inconsistent here and I don't know if it's me or the car with temperature changes.
Standard air pressure and tires. Wheel and tire combo is 9.3lbs lighter than the stock wheel/tire. HERE
Curb weight is 2360lbs. HERE!
Rear seats are removed.
It's an in car video. I usually record all my runs but it's nothing to see really. On the video, it says I'm running 15.5.
As soon as I floor the car. But the optimal times in between the taps, I'm still working on. Things seem inconsistent here and I don't know if it's me or the car with temperature changes.
Standard air pressure and tires. Wheel and tire combo is 9.3lbs lighter than the stock wheel/tire. HERE
Curb weight is 2360lbs. HERE!
Rear seats are removed.
It's an in car video. I usually record all my runs but it's nothing to see really. On the video, it says I'm running 15.5.
#8
#9
In the CVT, flooring the throttle will result in a 4,000-4,500 RPM engine speed by default and the car will climb on that ratio while the car builds speed.
If you floor the throttle, lift a tiny bit (like lift from 100% throttle to 90% throttle and then back to 100%) a "tap" if you will, this tells the car that you need more power so it kicks-down to a lower ratio, this instantly gains you about 1,000-1,500 RPM. If you do it twice, it pretty much pins the engine at its redline and there is a, let's just say, noticeable increase in acceleration. The car feels very relentless at this point and feels like it would pull strong well past 100mph.
The 'game' here, if you will, is that the from a dead start, the transmission has a lowest minimum gear ratio, so double tapping below a certain speed won't do anything, because the car is already in it's lowest ratio, hence you've lost a millisecond of 100% throttle acceleration in search of a ratio that doesn't exist.
It's a kind of fun game, but I really wish the car would jump straight to 6,500 rpm upon flooring it. Definitely room for a tuner here, but I have a feeling that messing with the shift logic of the CVT isn't nearly as easy as a traditional automatic.
If you floor the throttle, lift a tiny bit (like lift from 100% throttle to 90% throttle and then back to 100%) a "tap" if you will, this tells the car that you need more power so it kicks-down to a lower ratio, this instantly gains you about 1,000-1,500 RPM. If you do it twice, it pretty much pins the engine at its redline and there is a, let's just say, noticeable increase in acceleration. The car feels very relentless at this point and feels like it would pull strong well past 100mph.
The 'game' here, if you will, is that the from a dead start, the transmission has a lowest minimum gear ratio, so double tapping below a certain speed won't do anything, because the car is already in it's lowest ratio, hence you've lost a millisecond of 100% throttle acceleration in search of a ratio that doesn't exist.
It's a kind of fun game, but I really wish the car would jump straight to 6,500 rpm upon flooring it. Definitely room for a tuner here, but I have a feeling that messing with the shift logic of the CVT isn't nearly as easy as a traditional automatic.
#12
In the CVT, flooring the throttle will result in a 4,000-4,500 RPM engine speed by default and the car will climb on that ratio while the car builds speed.
If you floor the throttle, lift a tiny bit (like lift from 100% throttle to 90% throttle and then back to 100%) a "tap" if you will, this tells the car that you need more power so it kicks-down to a lower ratio, this instantly gains you about 1,000-1,500 RPM. If you do it twice, it pretty much pins the engine at its redline and there is a, let's just say, noticeable increase in acceleration. The car feels very relentless at this point and feels like it would pull strong well past 100mph.
The 'game' here, if you will, is that the from a dead start, the transmission has a lowest minimum gear ratio, so double tapping below a certain speed won't do anything, because the car is already in it's lowest ratio, hence you've lost a millisecond of 100% throttle acceleration in search of a ratio that doesn't exist.
It's a kind of fun game, but I really wish the car would jump straight to 6,500 rpm upon flooring it. Definitely room for a tuner here, but I have a feeling that messing with the shift logic of the CVT isn't nearly as easy as a traditional automatic.
If you floor the throttle, lift a tiny bit (like lift from 100% throttle to 90% throttle and then back to 100%) a "tap" if you will, this tells the car that you need more power so it kicks-down to a lower ratio, this instantly gains you about 1,000-1,500 RPM. If you do it twice, it pretty much pins the engine at its redline and there is a, let's just say, noticeable increase in acceleration. The car feels very relentless at this point and feels like it would pull strong well past 100mph.
The 'game' here, if you will, is that the from a dead start, the transmission has a lowest minimum gear ratio, so double tapping below a certain speed won't do anything, because the car is already in it's lowest ratio, hence you've lost a millisecond of 100% throttle acceleration in search of a ratio that doesn't exist.
It's a kind of fun game, but I really wish the car would jump straight to 6,500 rpm upon flooring it. Definitely room for a tuner here, but I have a feeling that messing with the shift logic of the CVT isn't nearly as easy as a traditional automatic.
#13
That being said, the 4k rpm jump and slow climb has a really nice relentless feel when accelerating for freeway onramps and the like. Because by the time you hit 60mph the car is pegged at redline and pulls pretty hard. I wouldn't be surprised if the CVT was faster from 60-120mph than the manual.
#14
I think that's what Myxalplyx is still testing.
That being said, the 4k rpm jump and slow climb has a really nice relentless feel when accelerating for freeway onramps and the like. Because by the time you hit 60mph the car is pegged at redline and pulls pretty hard. I wouldn't be surprised if the CVT was faster from 60-120mph than the manual.
That being said, the 4k rpm jump and slow climb has a really nice relentless feel when accelerating for freeway onramps and the like. Because by the time you hit 60mph the car is pegged at redline and pulls pretty hard. I wouldn't be surprised if the CVT was faster from 60-120mph than the manual.
In the CVT, flooring the throttle will result in a 4,000-4,500 RPM engine speed by default and the car will climb on that ratio while the car builds speed.
If you floor the throttle, lift a tiny bit (like lift from 100% throttle to 90% throttle and then back to 100%) a "tap" if you will, this tells the car that you need more power so it kicks-down to a lower ratio, this instantly gains you about 1,000-1,500 RPM. If you do it twice, it pretty much pins the engine at its redline and there is a, let's just say, noticeable increase in acceleration. The car feels very relentless at this point and feels like it would pull strong well past 100mph.
The 'game' here, if you will, is that the from a dead start, the transmission has a lowest minimum gear ratio, so double tapping below a certain speed won't do anything, because the car is already in it's lowest ratio, hence you've lost a millisecond of 100% throttle acceleration in search of a ratio that doesn't exist.
If you floor the throttle, lift a tiny bit (like lift from 100% throttle to 90% throttle and then back to 100%) a "tap" if you will, this tells the car that you need more power so it kicks-down to a lower ratio, this instantly gains you about 1,000-1,500 RPM. If you do it twice, it pretty much pins the engine at its redline and there is a, let's just say, noticeable increase in acceleration. The car feels very relentless at this point and feels like it would pull strong well past 100mph.
The 'game' here, if you will, is that the from a dead start, the transmission has a lowest minimum gear ratio, so double tapping below a certain speed won't do anything, because the car is already in it's lowest ratio, hence you've lost a millisecond of 100% throttle acceleration in search of a ratio that doesn't exist.
That magic rpm point seems to be somewhere between 3000-3500rpm (I'll say 3100rpm). The stall speed from a dead stop kicks the rpm up to 2200-2500rpm. If I hit the pedal again between 2500-3000rpm, the rpm needle will seem to hang at around 3400rpm for a bit before moving up again and it seems like it hesitates or falls dead on it's face.
Look at this dyno graph by Bisomoto -->
Notice the torque dips after 3200rpm and around 5900rpm or so? What I notice is if you get a tap in right before the dip, it'll jump the rpm needle to a point just past the dips and the car will accelerate strong. If you tap too soon before the dip, the needle will fall right into the dip lowest point and you'll notice the rpm needle will seem to 'hang' for a minute before moving forwards. It's an interesting game of timing but once you nail it a couple of times, you'll get an ear for when to do the taps. I'm still trying to make it natural feeling though.
Last edited by Myxalplyx; 11-19-2014 at 12:03 AM.
#15
This one paragraph really explains EXACTLY what I have been trying to say all along. The way you worded it makes it seems very straight-forward. Huge thanks! I need to save this somewhere in case I'm asked how it works (or seem to work).
That magic rpm point seems to be somewhere between 3000-3500rpm (I'll say 3100rpm). The stall speed from a dead stop kicks the rpm up to 2200-2500rpm. If I hit the pedal again between 2500-3000rpm, the rpm needle will seem to hang at around 3400rpm for a bit before moving up again and it seems like it hesitates or falls dead on it's face.
Look at this dyno graph by Bisomoto -->
Notice the torque dips after 3200rpm and around 5900rpm or so? What I notice is if you get a tap in right before the dip, it'll jump the rpm needle to a point just past the dips and the car will accelerate strong. If you tap too soon before the dip, the needle will fall right into the dip lowest point and you'll notice the rpm needle will seem to 'hang' for a minute before moving forwards. It's an interesting game of timing but once you nail it a couple of times, you'll get an ear for when to do the taps. I'm still trying to make it natural feeling though.
That magic rpm point seems to be somewhere between 3000-3500rpm (I'll say 3100rpm). The stall speed from a dead stop kicks the rpm up to 2200-2500rpm. If I hit the pedal again between 2500-3000rpm, the rpm needle will seem to hang at around 3400rpm for a bit before moving up again and it seems like it hesitates or falls dead on it's face.
Look at this dyno graph by Bisomoto -->
Notice the torque dips after 3200rpm and around 5900rpm or so? What I notice is if you get a tap in right before the dip, it'll jump the rpm needle to a point just past the dips and the car will accelerate strong. If you tap too soon before the dip, the needle will fall right into the dip lowest point and you'll notice the rpm needle will seem to 'hang' for a minute before moving forwards. It's an interesting game of timing but once you nail it a couple of times, you'll get an ear for when to do the taps. I'm still trying to make it natural feeling though.
Awesome, I will definitely test your theory. It makes sense based upon the torque curve.
#16
Yeah this CVT will rock if someone can reflash the logic so that it will get the lowest ratio possible when you floor it....
I feel Honda is crippling this on purpose, so that they can still sell some Civic SIs. I mean if you look at the Accord CVT, it pretty much keep the lowest ratio when you floor it.
I feel Honda is crippling this on purpose, so that they can still sell some Civic SIs. I mean if you look at the Accord CVT, it pretty much keep the lowest ratio when you floor it.
#18
I have but I'd rather hear your opinion and first hand experience doing this. If it works, awesome! If it sucks, let the masses know.
#19
Our Fit is still breaking in so I'm not running it over 4,000 rpm now.
#20
Np! I hate to say a whole lot about it since it seems like I'd be 'tooting my own horn'. It seems more believable to hear other people's opinion.
My best results were when I simply left it in 'L'. Shifting it didn't help it but it didn't hurt it either. It just seemed put more variability into the results because of the shifting itself.
My best results were when I simply left it in 'L'. Shifting it didn't help it but it didn't hurt it either. It just seemed put more variability into the results because of the shifting itself.