First oil change, any suggestions?
Me too. Changed at one year and 4500 miles. So annual per the manual.
Actually it says annually AFTER the mileage minder has been RESET. So when it is new it has never been reset yet. Seems to me that the manual/honda says leave the the initial fill in 'till the MM says 15% regardless and not to change it early.
But reasonable minds may differ...
But reasonable minds may differ...
Actually it says annually AFTER the mileage minder has been RESET. So when it is new it has never been reset yet. Seems to me that the manual/honda says leave the the initial fill in 'till the MM says 15% regardless and not to change it early.
But reasonable minds may differ...
But reasonable minds may differ...
Anyway, can't get my oil back.
You are not going to damage or cause excessive wear on your engine whether you change the initial fill oil at 1000 miles or 10000 miles.
Used oil analysis on BobIsTheOilGuy.com indicates that the 'extra ingredient' in Honda factory oil is Molybdenum, but even that is suspect, because this stuff is often used to coat the moving parts of internal combustion engines prior to first start-up.
Some folks (including me, many years ago) used to put this substance in their oil. You can still buy it as an additive if that floats your boat.

The manual says to do the first change at 15% as part of a proper engine break-in procedure. Why do otherwise?
My lifetime powertrain warranty requires that I follow maintenance in accordance with the maintenance minder.
My lifetime powertrain warranty requires that I follow maintenance in accordance with the maintenance minder.
Just throwing this out there:
Fumoto valves are pretty cheap and they make a nipple/hose model to which you can attach a hose to the drain plug and drain right into a waste container or empty bottle of your choosing. Rather than risk losing the splash shield completely, how bout trying to dremel a small section to access the valve and use a hose and then attaching the splash shield more permanently with zip ties or what not. Could be a solution...
Fumoto valves are pretty cheap and they make a nipple/hose model to which you can attach a hose to the drain plug and drain right into a waste container or empty bottle of your choosing. Rather than risk losing the splash shield completely, how bout trying to dremel a small section to access the valve and use a hose and then attaching the splash shield more permanently with zip ties or what not. Could be a solution...
Just throwing this out there:
Fumoto valves are pretty cheap and they make a nipple/hose model to which you can attach a hose to the drain plug and drain right into a waste container or empty bottle of your choosing. Rather than risk losing the splash shield completely, how bout trying to dremel a small section to access the valve and use a hose and then attaching the splash shield more permanently with zip ties or what not. Could be a solution...
Fumoto valves are pretty cheap and they make a nipple/hose model to which you can attach a hose to the drain plug and drain right into a waste container or empty bottle of your choosing. Rather than risk losing the splash shield completely, how bout trying to dremel a small section to access the valve and use a hose and then attaching the splash shield more permanently with zip ties or what not. Could be a solution...
The "new" green oils are very very low on Zinc Sulfide (I think thats the chemical..) its primary purpose is to facilitate the surface hardening of your cam and tappets/followers.
Several sources now sell high zinc/moly content oils for break in purposes. Its not good to run it indefinitely because it fouls the new 3way cat converters under extended use.
Joe Gibbs has several blends for breakin oils. Others do as well, or you can add the additives like Lubri-Moly. (Which funny enough really does not have much molybdenum in it. ) Zinc and Sulfur are your engines friends at break-in time.
Since the mandated change in oil formulas lots of racers were having cam failure problems on new engines, Compucams used to have a good writeup on it..
I've seen small bloc V8 engines eat a cam in 15 minutes when not broke in properly..
Cheers
Several sources now sell high zinc/moly content oils for break in purposes. Its not good to run it indefinitely because it fouls the new 3way cat converters under extended use.
Joe Gibbs has several blends for breakin oils. Others do as well, or you can add the additives like Lubri-Moly. (Which funny enough really does not have much molybdenum in it. ) Zinc and Sulfur are your engines friends at break-in time.
Since the mandated change in oil formulas lots of racers were having cam failure problems on new engines, Compucams used to have a good writeup on it..
I've seen small bloc V8 engines eat a cam in 15 minutes when not broke in properly..
Cheers
Always remember,, OEM recommendations protect them under the warrantee ,, the first click of the odometer after that Honda won't give a **** about your car, so some recommendations I take with a grain of salt. Toyota recommended 15K oil changes on the 1985 pickups.. The 22R would literally start tapping at about 4K on the oil, LOUDLY and when you drained it it looked awful can't imagine what 11K more would have made it look like..
I got my first change this morning, the odometer was 7526. The gauge dropped to 15% at almost exactly 7000 and hit 10% at about 7400 or so. It will be interesting to see if the straight 0w20 lasts as long as the break-in oil.



