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1. Is this covered under a standard warranty?
2. Do you know of a good way to fix it?
I'm going to have to drive back to the dealership where I had inquired with my 30,000 mile service, and literally hunt down the service person who was going to "get back to me" . I bought WeatherTech mats for the front; the larger lip at least partially holds back the detached molding, but it still sticks out.
Sometimes hard to tell what will be covered under warranty and what NOT.
But my guess is that would be determined to be wear and tear, and not a defect.
Thanks Fitchet. This is a spontaneous failure of the adhesive since there have been no "mishaps" to explain the separation. I have suspected like you however that this would be placed under a "wear and tear" umbrella. I am thinking that others have had the same experience, and hope that someone has cooked up a way either to settle with Honda or with Home Depot on a fix. I tried with double-sided, 30-lb tape, that lasted about an hour. I appreciate your attention.
Thanks xxryu139xx! I will be reading the set-up time carefully since as you may or may not be aware, the molding is very "curley", and the surface it attaches to is poorly backed carpet-like stuff. Any experience using this product with weird surfaces that you could share?
I've not had long-lasting luck with 3m spray-on adhesives. Yes, they are convenient for tacking things together for subsequent sewing.
Take a page out of shoemaking: use contact cement. Coat each part with a thin layer. The carpet will have great surfaces to bond. Let dry 20 mins. Recoat and redry if you really want more glue. After dry reheat with a heat gun, then stick together, which you can do only once. Contact cement will loosen when heated but will re-adhere when cooled.
For further steps, blind stitch the patch through to the backing carpet with a curved sewing needle. It'll be hard stitching in the driver's leg area, but after done the patch will never come undone.
P.S. You can also use Reina Klebfest (German), which is a shoe adhesive that is weather and water resistant. Use as you would contact cement. i have had great success with this adhesive.
Last edited by TorontoBoy; Oct 7, 2016 at 04:08 PM.
I've not had long-lasting luck with 3m spray-on adhesives. Yes, they are convenient for tacking things together for subsequent sewing.
Take a page out of shoemaking: use contact cement. Coat each part with a thin layer. The carpet will have great surfaces to bond. Let dry 20 mins. Recoat and redry if you really want more glue. After dry reheat with a heat gun, then stick together, which you can do only once. Contact cement will loosen when heated but will re-adhere when cooled.
For further steps, blind stitch the patch through to the backing carpet with a curved sewing needle. It'll be hard stitching in the driver's leg area, but after done the patch will never come undone.
P.S. You can also use Reina Klebfest (German), which is a shoe adhesive that is weather and water resistant. Use as you would contact cement. i have had great success with this adhesive.
Thanks TorontoBoy! I looked at contact cements at Home Depot, but kept seeing drying times of 24 hours. Your procedural description is reassuring, but I am not familiar with using (or owning) a heat gun. Could this be replaced with a hair dryer? Your detailed feedback is most appreciated!
Can anyone help me
i am in big trouble with my 3rd gen fit which has run only 19,000 km
the baterry is good starter also plug has been renewed but every 2 to 3 days or so the car fail to satrt though engine is cranking
we have to reset the ecu each time to have the car started .
Then problem come again after couple of days of next day
Thanks TorontoBoy! I looked at contact cements at Home Depot, but kept seeing drying times of 24 hours. Your procedural description is reassuring, but I am not familiar with using (or owning) a heat gun. Could this be replaced with a hair dryer? Your detailed feedback is most appreciated!
Yes, you can use a hair dryer. The hair dryer heat is only to reactivate the stickiness a little. When I'm lazy I skip the heat. It is best to wait 24 hrs for contact cement, but it is highly unlikely that your carpeting will immediately go through rough treatment, so you have nothing to worry about.
Check, thanks again. One other draw upon your experience TorontoBoy; would you put glue everywhere between the carpet and molding, or in a more limited area that approximates the range of the original adhesive? I don't need to be 'stingy', but would not want to dive unnecessarily into a mess that I can't handle.
Avoid getting the water-based contact cement they have available. At least in my experience, it excelled in every area except the one key area of holding things together. (It is a lot less stinky, easier to clean up, etc.; but it didn't hold things together reliably.) Online reviews suggest I'm not the only one with this experience.
Ordinary contact cement is handy and pretty reliable stuff. It can be a bit messy, particularly the spray can kind, but it's not all that difficult to use and does what it says it does on the can.
Check, thanks again. One other draw upon your experience TorontoBoy; would you put glue everywhere between the carpet and molding, or in a more limited area that approximates the range of the original adhesive? I don't need to be 'stingy', but would not want to dive unnecessarily into a mess that I can't handle.
If you can scuff up the back of the moulding. Use a piece of chalk and outline the moulding on the carpet. The chalk can be easily removed later. Apply a very thin layer of contact cement to both the moulding and the carpet on all of the two mating surfaces. Thin layers of glue are better than glooping it on. I cannot see if there is carpeting on the inside of Honda's adhesive line, but if you can put contact cement into there as well. The more surface area you glue the strong your patch. Pay particular attention to getting glue on the edges of both the moulding and the edge of the moulding on the carpet, as they are a stressor. If the edges are not glued down properly and you catch something on the edge this will be the starting point to peel off. You could outline the moulding line on the carpet with painter's tap so that if you glue over the line it will go on the tape instead of the carpet.
Get some fresh contact cement from Home Depot. I usually get the small bottle, as I don't use contact cement enough to warrant the larger bottle. If you do get the larger bottle, vacuum seal it in plastic.
For practice you can try the contact cement on a two pieces of leather.
Great, you have pretty well put me in the driver's seat (or at least floor). This sounds like a 'go'. I appreciate your interest and contribution to my project!
Can anyone help me
i am in big trouble with my 3rd gen fit which has run only 19,000 km
the baterry is good starter also plug has been renewed but every 2 to 3 days or so the car fail to satrt though engine is cranking
we have to reset the ecu each time to have the car started .
Then problem come again after couple of days of next day
This should be on warranty.
Trouble is you may need to tow car to dealer when it will not start.
Does car throw any trouble codes when this happens? If so, dealer may be able to trace without waiting for a tow.
Good call fitchet, thanks; open car port, open moon roof, and open windows will be my operating theater! And I will probably still 'come up for air' frequently.
Can anyone help me
i am in big trouble with my 3rd gen fit which has run only 19,000 km
the baterry is good starter also plug has been renewed but every 2 to 3 days or so the car fail to satrt though engine is cranking
we have to reset the ecu each time to have the car started .
Then problem come again after couple of days of next day
Your post does not belong in this thread. Create your own thread. Do not post here again.
Looks to me like Honda or the parts supplier used some type of double sided adhesive gasket, and it just didn't hold.
The edge is too perfectly shaped all around.
I wonder if the OP ever resolved this problem and what they used.