Oil Separator Install 2016 EX 6MT
2 Attachment(s)
I installed a Moroso oil separator on my 2016 EX 6MT using two hex head stainless cap screws, nylon hex lock nuts and flat washers.
There was half a teaspoon of oil in the separator at 150 miles. It works as expected! The larger Moroso oil separator on my 2007 Tacoma 2.7L 4x4 captured two and a half teaspoons of oil at 700 miles. Parts List: Moroso universal small oil separator anodized black: 85497 Moroso 3/8” to 3/8” 90 degree fitting (2): 65382 (the 85497 is supplied with 1/2" fittings. If you want to use the smaller Honda PCV hose order 65382) Honda PCV hose: 17131-5R1-000 Honda PCV hose clamps (2): 95002-41250-04 |
What is the purpose of the oil separator. I've never heard of this.
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hopefully it stops the oil from being ingested into the intake and forming deposits which on a GDI engine are not washed off by fuel. Its a good idea. but fairly expensive!..but probably cheap insurance. We will see in 8 years or less if its required! I was planning to do thsi but havent got round to it yet, its pretty tight in our engine compartment.
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Originally Posted by Ciscofit
(Post 1357186)
I installed a Moroso oil separator on my 2016 EX 6MT using two hex head stainless cap screws, nylon hex lock nuts and flat washers.
There was half a teaspoon of oil in the separator at 150 miles. It works as expected! The larger Moroso oil separator on my 2007 Tacoma 2.7L 4x4 captured two and a half teaspoons of oil at 700 miles. Parts List: Moroso universal small oil separator anodized black: 85497 Moroso 3/8” to 3/8” 90 degree fitting (2): 65382 (the 85497 is supplied with 1/2" fittings. If you want to use the smaller Honda PCV hose order 65382) Honda PCV hose: 17131-5R1-000 Honda PCV hose clamps (2): 95002-41250-04 |
I'd be interested in doing this. Thanks for posting. How hard would you say the job was assuming one has the skill set of a novice mechanic?
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Fairly simple with the right tools. Drilling the two mounting holes for the separator mounting bracket was the most difficult. With minimal clearance for drilling from the intake manifold side of the engine, I used a right angle chuck adapter (DWARA100) on my Dewalt cordless drill. You can find them at Lowe's and Home Depot for a reasonable price and it should fit any cordless drill hex drive.
I used a small diameter short drill bit that fits the hex drive to make a starter hole. That hole was then enlarged with a Dremmel motor tool with a right angle chuck adapter and grinding bit. The 5mm diameter threads of the hex head stainless cap screws then fit the hole. I touched up the area of exposed metal with Honda touch-up paint. You could do all of the drilling/grinding with either a cordless drill or Dremmel as described. You can find a small hex drive grinding bit to fit your cordless drill or small drill bit for the Dremmel. |
Originally Posted by Shadow Smith
(Post 1357402)
I'd be interested in doing this. Thanks for posting. How hard would you say the job was assuming one has the skill set of a novice mechanic?
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Originally Posted by KentFinn
(Post 1357546)
According to Pat Goss of Motor Week, an unnecessary mod/expense unless you drive the car like a race car WOT. IMHO.
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Originally Posted by Fuelish
(Post 1357550)
The same could be said of many mods :)
As always, YMMV on in that case, his lusts were fixated on that Ford. |
Here is what Pat Goss actually said in the "Motorweek" segment on engine oil separators:
Wow, there’s a lot of chatter out there about a new form of deposits that can form in the intake manifolds of cars. It seems that a lot of technicians are calling these GDI deposits. Well, GDI is gasoline direct injection, and they’re blaming it on the direct injection. But, I think it’s something different. I think that it has to do with low tension, or low friction piston rings that are used on virtually all cars these days. Because the piston rings don’t expand and push against the cylinder walls as hard as older ones did, they are more susceptible to deposits forming that cause them to stick. And when the piston rings stick, you get more pressure inside the crankcase, and that forces oil deposits back through the crankcase ventilation system into the intake manifold. Well, no matter what theory you believe, the fact of the matter is, the deposits are caused by oil getting into the intake. And the harder you drive your car, well, the worse those deposits are going to be. Now I did something on this car that should do away with those problems all together. You see, normally the crankcase ventilation system goes from a port back there, here through the intake, right in behind the throttle body, and that’s where the crankcase fumes go. So what I did, I used what’s called a catch can; it’s actually an oil separator. And inserted that into the middle of the crankcase breather system. So this line goes back into the port, from the crankcase, and it comes up here, goes through this oil separator, this catch can, and then out and into the intake manifold. And what this does, this separates any oil out of those fumes, so the oil stays in the catch can instead of going back into the intake manifold. Now if you drive very gently, chances are you’d never get any benefit out of this. But if you drive your car hard, this could save a ton of money, over the life of the car. Something you might want to consider. Look at my original post: .5 teaspoon collected at 150 miles of MODERATE driving. Multiply that quantity of oil by thousands of miles. Without the oil separator, that oil would be ingested directly into the intake manifold causing unnecessary deposits in the manifold and on the intake valves. Those are the facts! |
Originally Posted by Ciscofit
(Post 1357620)
Here is what Pat Goss actually said in the "Motorweek" segment on engine oil separators:
Look at my original post: .5 teaspoon collected at 150 miles of MODERATE driving. Multiply that quantity of oil by thousands of miles. Without the oil separator, that oil would be ingested directly into the intake manifold causing unnecessary deposits in the manifold and on the intake valves. Those are the facts! You might consider this "mod" to be worthwhile if there were many, long term reports of issues known to be caused by oil vapor in the intake, but I'm not sure it's that big of a problem. If it makes you feel better, then sure, why not? I'm just not sold it's a necessary or beneficial thing. |
I'd agree with elziffO. There are a lot of Fits driving around out there getting higher in mileage and so far there are simply no widespread reports of problems with deposit build up on the intake valves. Perhaps the mileage needs to get significantly higher from where most cars are now and this will be interesting to watch for in the years ahead. Until then though, all we have right now is a solution in search of the problem.
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Originally Posted by woof
(Post 1357674)
I'd agree with elziffO. There are a lot of Fits driving around out there getting higher in mileage and so far there are simply no widespread reports of problems with deposit build up on the intake valves. Perhaps the mileage needs to get significantly higher from where most cars are now and this will be interesting to watch for in the years ahead. Until then though, all we have right now is a solution in search of the problem.
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I put one on today. I drove 15 miles and it has oil in it already:
http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1ghze7qz.jpg I mounted it next to the windshield washer tank. http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/...psriqsphf7.jpg |
I changed the exit fitting to a 90 degree style to straighten out the bend in the hose. Much cleaner routing.
http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/...psyipkyfwg.jpg After 80 miles it has collected this much oil. It looks to be working. http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/...psaatjmzhd.jpg |
Originally Posted by jhn
(Post 1358691)
I changed the exit fitting to a 90 degree style to straighten out the bend in the hose. Much cleaner routing.
http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/...psyipkyfwg.jpg After 80 miles it has collected this much oil. It looks to be working. http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/...psaatjmzhd.jpg |
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where to buy the little one with the glass ?
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Originally Posted by salamlaith
(Post 1358764)
where to buy the little one with the glass ?
Lol,hahaha, wut |
Inspired by jhn's configuration, I installed mine last night. It's already trapped a visible amount of oil.
Could be placebo effect or the fact that the vacuum is cleaner, but the engine seems to be running more smoothly as though it's finally getting the right fuel/air mixture. As someone who purchased their Fit, I'm glad to have a mod that enables preventative maintenance. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...ef091aa747.jpg |
I thought the same thing. The oil could be effecting the octane rating, so it's very well possible it's more than placebo.
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Just installed mine. Gotta cheapo can off amazon and modified the insides.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...6cbc54ebb2.jpg |
Looks good guys. I'm almost at warranty end so I'll throw it on there after. I like the smaller version that jhn "pioneered" :)
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One thing to keep in mind is it is important to keep is flowing well. If the can clogs up, it will cause pressure to increase in the cases scavenging vacuum can only do so much. And keep it empty. If it fills and sucks oil, it will at least blow smoke out the exhaust, or worse, hydrolock and break the engine.
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The can was empty on the inside. I added a downpipe with a bunch of vent holes to the intake side. Then I wrapped that with a pack of stainless scrubbing pads. I also added a 50 micron brass filter to the return side. I replaced the drain plug with a drain cock. I'll be draining it at every oil change, or whenever it's about a 3rd of the way full to make sure I won't be sucking anything into the manifold. The can was about $20 and I spent about another $20 on new fittings and the random parts to go in it.
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Originally Posted by jhn
(Post 1359292)
And keep it empty.
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Originally Posted by WagovanMan
(Post 1359499)
How often would you recommend emptying the JEGS can? Daily? Weekly?
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Originally Posted by elziff0
(Post 1357677)
As a data point, I have a 14 Kia Forte with the 2.0 GDI engine. 50K on it now (bought new by me) and although there is much rumbling in the Kia community about GDI and the perils therein, I've not seen anything. My car occasionally has a rough idle, but then it'll be fine for days or weeks. That points more to sensors or electronics, IMO. Dump a can of Seafoam in the tank every so often and it'll keep things pretty clean.
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Not just the valves really, the whole intake path stays cleaner with a catch can over without one..
Also CCV just does not evacuate the crank case as well as PCV did, I find oil in the crankcase vent tube to my air cleaner on one of may cars.. YMMV! |
Agreed on the improved engine idle smoothness and throttle response I have experienced from oil separators installed on my 2016 Fit and 2007 Tacoma.
Moroso Overview: Vehicles from the factory vent these excess crankcase vapors, residual oil mist and moisture right back into the intake manifold which could cause detonation, oil deposits to form in the intake tract including the valves themselves and from lowering the efficiency of the intercooler in intercooler equipped vehicles. Increases engine performance from cleaner intake air. |
This looks like a worth while mod. Guess im spending more money now lol, and doing it early on my new 2017. Whether you drive aggressive, conservative, regardless the engine will be running in the 1-5k range, and often holding at 3k on highway speeds. Guess I'll try watching the can on a weekly basis, and see how much oil builds up.
Obviously this video is of a performance car, but the logic is sound, for the cost I think its worth the prevenative maintenance. |
Originally Posted by jhn
(Post 1358553)
I put one on today. I drove 15 miles and it has oil in it already:
http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1ghze7qz.jpg I mounted it next to the windshield washer tank. http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/...psriqsphf7.jpg |
The hose that connects to the top should be on your "out" side and the hose that's coming from the bottom should connect to your "in" side.
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That's correct. Pull the hose off the manifold and plug it in to the "in" side of the separator. I have more pics here:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-...y-15-ex-9.html |
Originally Posted by jhn
(Post 1363693)
That's correct. Pull the hose off the manifold and plug it in to the "in" side of the separator. I have more pics here:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-...y-15-ex-9.html |
Originally Posted by WagovanMan
(Post 1359245)
Inspired by jhn's configuration, I installed mine last night. It's already trapped a visible amount of oil.
Could be placebo effect or the fact that the vacuum is cleaner, but the engine seems to be running more smoothly as though it's finally getting the right fuel/air mixture. As someone who purchased their Fit, I'm glad to have a mod that enables preventative maintenance. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...ef091aa747.jpg mind sharing a link, to what can/bracket that is? |
Regarding the flow path, shouldn't the "in" port of the catch can be connected to the PCV side of the circuit and the "out" port be connected to the intake manifold? I believe this is correct, as you're filtering for oil from the PCV system return and keeping it from flowing back into the intake. The description above has it opposite.
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Originally Posted by Alfa38
(Post 1407121)
Regarding the flow path, shouldn't the "in" port of the catch can be connected to the PCV side of the circuit and the "out" port be connected to the intake manifold? I believe this is correct, as you're filtering for oil from the PCV system return and keeping it from flowing back into the intake. The description above has it opposite.
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