You are correct, the folded down seat backs do not give a completely flat surface. However, for the time being, I re-installed the rear seats because building a plywood platform is not necessary because a heavy duty air mattress will conform to the uneven surface with the seat backs folded down. But, it's nice to know if you need to carry lots of stuff, you can removed both seats by removing just 4 bolts. One note, you also have to remove the felt that hides the chassis. Since I don't normally see the felt, I cut them at right angle so I can get the seat out without having to remove the 7(?) plastic fasteners.

I found the instructions for the Jazz. http://www.hondafitjazz.com/manual/A...902KDAT00.HTML It shows you need to remove the felt in order to get the seats out.

 

I have removed the front passenger and both rear seats to create space for a camper buildout. It increases storage space dramatically, however, as I have found out the hard way, you need to create adequate entry points to access the "under bed" storage. I have been living in it and working fultime for 8 months now.

 

I've slept diagonally in my Fit. It worked but anything to make it more comfortable would be appreciated.
It's nice to get off work at 11, drive to the campground, crash, get up at dawn and go about your pleasure without having to set-up and tear down a tent. Makes one-nighters much more attractive.

I would like to see a pic of the front seats laid back with the rear seats removed.

 

When you removed the front seat, does that disturb the air bag sensors, ie a warning lamp in the dash that tells you the airbag is disabled? When you do reconnect the electrical, you may need the dealer to enable the connections again? I had trouble like that on a BMW so I wasn't about to remove the passenger front seat in the Fit.

I was thinking of getting a double inflatable mattress and inflate it when it is inside so that the mattress will conform to the odd shapes.

 

I am considering living in a Fit;but, I can’t fig out what to do about being too hot in the summer. I live in SC. It’s usually 90+ with @ least 85+ humidity. I know I can’t run the A/C for long. I work @ night. I’d be sleeping during the heat of the day. How do you keep cool?

 

Only way I see you being comfortable in it in your climate is if you park it in your air conditioned garage.


Sorry but your situation is tough.

 

yah, i was just down dere in charleston a few wks ago for biz and it waz HOT and SUPER humid.. and it wasnt even 'summer temps' yet. i dont know how u guys even survive down dere. lol (i hate humidity)

dat said, i suggest you take it easy at a ymca or park district to cool off. seek shelter cause temps inside a car can reach 170F if the a/c dies while ure asleep within less than an hour.

 

With that much space in the Fit surprised you didn't install a hammock!

 

Hello folks,

Another thread on this forum influenced my decision to buy a Fit so I thought I'd share my simple setup. It's really just a plank on the driver's side with a couple of loose 2x4 underneath to keep the whole bed level. The back was cut to the trunk's shape (thanks, dad!) but it's not necessary. I push the driver's seat and fill the hole behind with a bag full of stuff and sleep on a regular Thermarest. I'm 5'9" and glad I'm not any taller. I can still sit with my feet on the floor (passenger side). I use these sleeves to keep bugs out: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/-/32...74ac3c00HjejUF You can find them on Amazon as well. They have two layers and will stop some rain but also reduce airflow a bit.

Here it is, used as a table (pardon the mess).

 

I have done nearly zero investigation on this but felt I had to share. This looks really cool. I think it's over $2,000 US Dollars (edit: just realized they left their site up even though they are out of business or not longer producing these products).....

The design is something to think about or mimic.

swissRoomBox-home

 

super off topic.... what are you using ... for those sun shades for the 4 doors?

 

The Fit doesn't offer enough room. What makes sense is a gutted out Dodge grand caravan for camping.

 

That is really cool!

 

YES, super cool! I am trying to find a source that I understand (LOL) to better understand the load capacity of thin plywood on edge. Buying the telescoping poles does not seem too difficult. I am picturing a full weekend with plywood, and a router. Plus some really large wing-nuts.

 

Focus on keeping you, not the car, cool. RX filling an inflatable mattress with cool/cold water, either entirely water, or partially with water. Try it elsewhere first to see if it works, but I suspect sleeping on what is defacto a waterbed filled with cool water will keep you quite cool - maybe even cold. You may have to flush and refill, depending on how much heat the mattress loses at night. If the system works, you might be able to find a small battery-operated liquid cooler, or perhaps you have access to AC power and can find better options. This chilled-water system, amplified by using dry-ice, might get you over the top.

Reflectix is pretty great stuff to Velcro in the windows, using their new clear Velcro, to keep heat out. Good window film on the windshield, like 3M Crystalline also helps a lot if you can afford it. Reflectix will also keep you warm in winter.

 

This is an inefficient design. Bring those edge supports in 8-10" on each side, cantilevering the horz supports, and you can use smaller horz supports. Engineering 101. Cantilevering gives you the overhanging part "free", not requiring any strength beyond what is already required for the center, now much shorter unsupported section of the horz support.

Three strips of 1x4 (Home Depot now sells a product that is actually 1 inch by 4 inches) stood on end, and cut to mate to the floor perfectly, covered with high quality 3/8th inch plywood should suffice. Dimensional 1x3" oak or poplar ribs could be used for additional strength, attached to the 1x4" strips if need be.

A 2nd approach would be to glue & screw the ribs onto the plywood, in addition to short 3-4" stub posts that engage the floor at strategic points. In such a design, the post-lettes should have shoulders cut into them so the ribs/beams sit directly on the shoulders when bearing weight. The posts can then be glued and screwed directly to the ribs and/or plywood platform. Very strong. A 3x2" post, 4-8" long, laid flat on the 2" side, should mate to the ribs in the seat backs quite nicely, so keep an open mind about what constitutes a "post"

I'm guessing a single piece of plywood, cut to match the sides of the vehicle would not fit through the rear hatch, so two pieces and a piano hinge might be required, folding right down the middle, or 60/40, 70/30 etc. A post-supported system would allow access to the space between the platform and floor if the rear and/or front passenger seat were removed, provided hinged sections were built over the rear foot-wells and front seating area.

I suspect a Full-sized memory foam mattress cover would be sufficient for a very nice, firm sleeping surface. Walmart.

 

I've seen a few pic's on line of conversions of FITs for traveling. At 6'2", I've wondered how they would work for me. Thought that when I retired I might do some casual traveling. Let's us known what you do and how it works out. Thought about a small trailer with a cooking space on one side and a compost toilet on the other. (LMAO) Sorry that just came out, but am thinking of ways to outfit the "FIT" for travel.

 

My thought is to inflate a double air mattress to conform to all the irregularities. It would be less complicated and less weight to haul around.

 

For car living/camping: I second the minivan solution. An early 2000s minivan wont cost much, will run like a tank, and has space for days.


How ever on subject of the rear seat removal: i could see replacing them with storage cabinets as a net possitive.

 

Plus, with a mini van you could tow stuff.