I couldn't find the "sticky" thread about this, so I'm making a new one.

There have been lots of complaints about the two rear fasteners for the engine splash shield. Thanks to a suggestion by someone here, I tried those snap-in fender/bumper fasteners. Perfect!

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now if I can just find a permanent solution for those speed nuts that keep getting out of position of falling off - the ones that the Philips screws go into.

 

sounds good.. wow but 50pcs!

maybe you can just tape the speed clips in place using foil tape..

 

Yeah, I know. Maybe I should have gotten 100. : )

They're used all over the car, so with two cars ion the family, they won't go to waste.

 

LOL

yah, im sure with future cars you buy they can come in handy too.

 

so far i have never removed the two back fasteners, just drop/pull the shield down and drain and replace filter, it is not as easy (pan on a slope) and i did spill a bit of oil, BUT IT IS POSSIBLE.. they have a nice sound absorber/oil absorber built into the tray..i wonder which it was designed as ?

 

I tried that the other day, but between the force needed to pull down the shield and the certainty of the oil hitting the shield and splashing all over, I removed the two plastic screws. Now I can just pop those clips out.

 

yes, the shield is over a lip at the front...there is a bit of force required to get it over the lip...its probably not a great lifetime solution

 

My dealer doing oil change 1 apparently replaced the original plastic clips with bumper type clips, look like 91505-TM8-003. However he only put one of the front lips in place above the bumper. Next dealer I went to missed one speed nut when putting in the tapping screw. He just screwed the screw into air. The other screws - he started them into the speed nuts but turned them down no further, neglected to snug them, left them quite loose. The front lips were place above the bumper so the shroud was unlikely to fall out - even though the screws were likely to fall out and get lost.

 

Of course! Bring the car to a Honda dealer so you know it gets serviced right!

 

Not no more. I bought a rolling hydraulic jack that is light enough for me to lift in and out of the cargo area, and some jack stands, and some 3/8 plywood to put under them if i'm working on asphalt, and got a pair of 2 x 10 inch pieces of lumber to use as ramps so I can get the 5 inch high jack under the car and reach the front center lift point. I found an area of reasonably level concrete next to the railroad tracks where I don't think I'll get chased away from. I've long had socket wrench sets, and a big special socket for the oil filter. I plan to do the next oil change myself.

 

i take it you dont have garage storage? ramps are so much easier.

 

No garage. I live in a 1 bedroom apartment. Ramps don't take any more room to store than a small rolling jack, but I don't think i have room for both, and I hate driving onto ramps. I'm always thinking I'm going to drive past the end. Or instead of the car going up on 2 simultaneously, maybe one ramp will slide forward before the car starts climbing, but the other won't, so when one wheel is at the top, the other wheel is still on the incline. Plus I won't be able to do brake work and tire rotations with the ramps - so I definitely need the jack and jackstands, I don't have room for both the ramps and and the jacks and jackstands.

 

I made mine out of 2 x 12s, so they are BIG - like 8' tall when standing on end. I made them when I had a Ford Expedition - big and heavy. They are on wheels, so they are easy to move. I push each ramp right up against each front tire. Then I go to the rear and make sure they are straight. I have stops at the end of them, so driving over the edge would be very difficult.

 

Sounds good. I figure if I had a house with a garage and had room for storage I would probably make nice long ramps with a mild incline, that brought the car fairly high, out of lumber. I actually started sketching out plans for best weight to strength ratio and to have each ramp in 2 pieces that could attach to each other securely. For now, my "ramps" are just 2 pieces of 2 x 12 lumber, with one edge cut at an angle.

 

I used to have steel ramps that were in two pieces: the ramp itself, and the resting place for the tire. I never felt like they were secure enough when I was driving up on them.

 

Those after market clips work like a charm.

I wouldn't think of having anyone else change my oil but me.
My ramps are home made, three layers of 2x10's. Each layer shorter than the one beneath, to give it a ramp effect. With my sloping driveway the car is level when the ramps are under the front tires.

 

That's a very workable ramp. It will be about 4.5 inches high. I think I could design and make an adequately strong ramp about the same height or maybe a little higher, using less wood though - so it would be easier for me to carry around. It would take a lot more carpentry work though.

 

The solution to the under cover is not reinstalling it after the first oil change. You will soon get over the shock of leaving this useless part off permanently. Now, I can reach the oil filter (pic shows mirror image) and plug from the front of the car without having to lift the front end for the next oil change. As in my BMW (9 qts), I can probably change the oil (3.3 qt) and filter in 15 minutes or less. The longest part of the process is to allow time to drain the oil. Another recommendation is to line your oil drain pan with a 15 gallon plastic trash bag. When you recover all the old oil tie a knot at the top of the bag and take oil along with the drain pan that was used for support to the oil recover station. Pinch or cut a hole at the bottom of the bag and let the old oil drain into the recovery drum. Now, your drain pan is clean without residual oil. That is nice not having to clean up. You paid the price with the 15 gallon plastic bag.

 

I fill old 5-qt oil containers with the drain oil and bring them to recycling.

 

Sealing the bottom of the engine bay can reduce turbulence under the car, and thereby reduce drag and wind noise. I don't know how much you'd notice the noise, or the change in fuel economy from the drag, but when I was on the NSX forum there were people spending quite a bit of money for undertray panels from the Type R.

Probably doesn't make such a difference at freeway cruising speed compared to autobahn speed, but I've taken enough of a hit in economy with my tire choice that I'm going to keep mine on. At least my wife's CX-5 has a small access hatch for the oil filter, wish Honda had thought that far ahead.