LED Replacement Headlamp Bulbs
#41
03-09-2018, 07:13 AM
But how do the function? Can you see better at night with the low beams? With the high beams?
Better than you could see with the oem incandescents? When turning from a main road onto a side road, I could not see the sides of the side road with the oem incandescents, unless I almost completely stopped in the main road and turned very very slowly. Since the roads where I live don't have white lines along the edges, and since there are no shoulders either, and instead there is just a kind of ditch that begins where the pavement ends, which I do not want to drive onto, the original incandescents are making it hard for me to drive at night. If I slow down on the main road, I keep on worrying that someone is going to rear-end me. Yes she would be liable for damages, but I still don't want it to happen; I don't want the disruption it would cause.
The Amazon ad describes the Beamtech lamps as being 32 volt! My Fit has a 12 volt battery and the regulated voltage from the alternator is around 14 volts. A 32 volt lamp would not be suitable. If they have the wrong number here, why should I trust them to have the correct lumens posted? Or the correct color temperature?
By the way 2000 lumens for low beam of each lamp and 2000 for high beam, is not a lot more light than the original incandescents, which are about 1200 high beams, 900 low beams. https://www.brandsport.com/sylv-9003su.html And I do not think that 2000 lumens is twice as bright as 1000 lumens. And I think that the lumens are measured at the source, the at the filament or LED, and that that doesn't necessarily correspond to the amount of light that the reflectors reflect onto the road.
Better than you could see with the oem incandescents? When turning from a main road onto a side road, I could not see the sides of the side road with the oem incandescents, unless I almost completely stopped in the main road and turned very very slowly. Since the roads where I live don't have white lines along the edges, and since there are no shoulders either, and instead there is just a kind of ditch that begins where the pavement ends, which I do not want to drive onto, the original incandescents are making it hard for me to drive at night. If I slow down on the main road, I keep on worrying that someone is going to rear-end me. Yes she would be liable for damages, but I still don't want it to happen; I don't want the disruption it would cause.
The Amazon ad describes the Beamtech lamps as being 32 volt! My Fit has a 12 volt battery and the regulated voltage from the alternator is around 14 volts. A 32 volt lamp would not be suitable. If they have the wrong number here, why should I trust them to have the correct lumens posted? Or the correct color temperature?
By the way 2000 lumens for low beam of each lamp and 2000 for high beam, is not a lot more light than the original incandescents, which are about 1200 high beams, 900 low beams. https://www.brandsport.com/sylv-9003su.html And I do not think that 2000 lumens is twice as bright as 1000 lumens. And I think that the lumens are measured at the source, the at the filament or LED, and that that doesn't necessarily correspond to the amount of light that the reflectors reflect onto the road.
#42
03-09-2018, 08:19 PM
But how do the function? Can you see better at night with the low beams? With the high beams?
Better than you could see with the oem incandescents? When turning from a main road onto a side road, I could not see the sides of the side road with the oem incandescents, unless I almost completely stopped in the main road and turned very very slowly. Since the roads where I live don't have white lines along the edges, and since there are no shoulders either, and instead there is just a kind of ditch that begins where the pavement ends, which I do not want to drive onto, the original incandescents are making it hard for me to drive at night. If I slow down on the main road, I keep on worrying that someone is going to rear-end me. Yes she would be liable for damages, but I still don't want it to happen; I don't want the disruption it would cause.
The Amazon ad describes the Beamtech lamps as being 32 volt! My Fit has a 12 volt battery and the regulated voltage from the alternator is around 14 volts. A 32 volt lamp would not be suitable. If they have the wrong number here, why should I trust them to have the correct lumens posted? Or the correct color temperature?
By the way 2000 lumens for low beam of each lamp and 2000 for high beam, is not a lot more light than the original incandescents, which are about 1200 high beams, 900 low beams. https://www.brandsport.com/sylv-9003su.html And I do not think that 2000 lumens is twice as bright as 1000 lumens. And I think that the lumens are measured at the source, the at the filament or LED, and that that doesn't necessarily correspond to the amount of light that the reflectors reflect onto the road.
Better than you could see with the oem incandescents? When turning from a main road onto a side road, I could not see the sides of the side road with the oem incandescents, unless I almost completely stopped in the main road and turned very very slowly. Since the roads where I live don't have white lines along the edges, and since there are no shoulders either, and instead there is just a kind of ditch that begins where the pavement ends, which I do not want to drive onto, the original incandescents are making it hard for me to drive at night. If I slow down on the main road, I keep on worrying that someone is going to rear-end me. Yes she would be liable for damages, but I still don't want it to happen; I don't want the disruption it would cause.
The Amazon ad describes the Beamtech lamps as being 32 volt! My Fit has a 12 volt battery and the regulated voltage from the alternator is around 14 volts. A 32 volt lamp would not be suitable. If they have the wrong number here, why should I trust them to have the correct lumens posted? Or the correct color temperature?
By the way 2000 lumens for low beam of each lamp and 2000 for high beam, is not a lot more light than the original incandescents, which are about 1200 high beams, 900 low beams. https://www.brandsport.com/sylv-9003su.html And I do not think that 2000 lumens is twice as bright as 1000 lumens. And I think that the lumens are measured at the source, the at the filament or LED, and that that doesn't necessarily correspond to the amount of light that the reflectors reflect onto the road.
#44
03-11-2018, 06:56 PM
Installed the superbright leds for the headlights, popped right in, kept the oem rubber boot with little trouble, Waiting until it gets dark to check the cutoff and look. So far in the daytime they work, and my DRL also work. I notice a bit of a flicker on start up though.
I need to wait until a new day to replace the fogs. Still a little too cold and wet to get in behind the wheel well and remove the lining to fight my way into the fogs. I might as well wait for a day to drop the bumper anyway and do the sport horns at the same time
I need to wait until a new day to replace the fogs. Still a little too cold and wet to get in behind the wheel well and remove the lining to fight my way into the fogs. I might as well wait for a day to drop the bumper anyway and do the sport horns at the same time
#45
05-21-2018, 06:31 PM
VLEDs says their bulbs have a lower voltage range of 8 volts, Superbrightleds says their bulbs have a lower voltage range of 9 volts.
I decided it is time to take out my voltmeter. or my voltmeters, and see what they say about the voltage to the high beam filaments, when the DRLs are on. Be warned though, the voltage is controlled by a pulse width modulation circuit. Whether you can accurately measure the voltage being supplied to the bulb, by disconnecting the connector and measuring the voltage at the connector, with any kind of voltmeter, is questionable. Maybe you can measure the voltage accurately when the circuit is loaded by the bulb's filament (for example, with the bulb connected). Or maybe not. But measuring the voltage at the terminals, with no load, with no bulb in place, is even less likely. Now, to measure the voltage under load, I'd have to devise some intermediate device to go between the connector and the bulb, to which I can make contact, with the voltmeter's probe. I don't have such a device. So I just pulled the connector off the bulb, and measured. Started the engine during the daytime, put the headlight switch on auto, undid the handbrake, pulled the handbrake back up, put the car in drive, put it back in park, and measured.
What I got with my 40-year old high impedence voltmeter (I think its 1 megohm; the voltmeter utilizes a field effect transisitor to provide the high impedence), was 12.5 volts, Just a tiny bit less than the 14.5 volts I would expect to see at the high beam filament, with the headlamps switched to high beam. Although I forgot to measure that. But it would probably be about 14.5 volts. But with my 30-year old, cheap, automotive volt meter, with a range of 0 to 20 volts, but which has a much lower impedence, I got 3 volts, for the DRL voltage. Oh well. How many volts does the filament actually get in DRL mode? And how many volts would a LED lamp get, with its different impedence? I don't know. I forgot I also have a couple more voltmeters I can connect, and see what they say.
What I really need is a calibrated oscilloscope that can show the pwm waveform and that can be used to measure the peak to peak voltage and the RMS voltage. Anyone have any recommendations for something I can plug into my laptop computer's usb port or into the laptop's microphone jack that will display a voltage wave on the screen? Actually, I don't seem to have a microphone jack or high-level audio-input jack on my laptop, only on my desktops.
I decided it is time to take out my voltmeter. or my voltmeters, and see what they say about the voltage to the high beam filaments, when the DRLs are on. Be warned though, the voltage is controlled by a pulse width modulation circuit. Whether you can accurately measure the voltage being supplied to the bulb, by disconnecting the connector and measuring the voltage at the connector, with any kind of voltmeter, is questionable. Maybe you can measure the voltage accurately when the circuit is loaded by the bulb's filament (for example, with the bulb connected). Or maybe not. But measuring the voltage at the terminals, with no load, with no bulb in place, is even less likely. Now, to measure the voltage under load, I'd have to devise some intermediate device to go between the connector and the bulb, to which I can make contact, with the voltmeter's probe. I don't have such a device. So I just pulled the connector off the bulb, and measured. Started the engine during the daytime, put the headlight switch on auto, undid the handbrake, pulled the handbrake back up, put the car in drive, put it back in park, and measured.
What I got with my 40-year old high impedence voltmeter (I think its 1 megohm; the voltmeter utilizes a field effect transisitor to provide the high impedence), was 12.5 volts, Just a tiny bit less than the 14.5 volts I would expect to see at the high beam filament, with the headlamps switched to high beam. Although I forgot to measure that. But it would probably be about 14.5 volts. But with my 30-year old, cheap, automotive volt meter, with a range of 0 to 20 volts, but which has a much lower impedence, I got 3 volts, for the DRL voltage. Oh well. How many volts does the filament actually get in DRL mode? And how many volts would a LED lamp get, with its different impedence? I don't know. I forgot I also have a couple more voltmeters I can connect, and see what they say.
What I really need is a calibrated oscilloscope that can show the pwm waveform and that can be used to measure the peak to peak voltage and the RMS voltage. Anyone have any recommendations for something I can plug into my laptop computer's usb port or into the laptop's microphone jack that will display a voltage wave on the screen? Actually, I don't seem to have a microphone jack or high-level audio-input jack on my laptop, only on my desktops.
Last edited by nomenclator; 05-22-2018 at 04:21 PM.
#46
05-22-2018, 04:35 PM
I just learned that I can buy an inexpensive usb sound card to plug into my computer, make this device, and buy an inexpensive oscilloscope program like the one listed on that page.
#47
07-03-2018, 09:41 AM
Installed the superbright leds for the headlights, popped right in, kept the oem rubber boot with little trouble, Waiting until it gets dark to check the cutoff and look. So far in the daytime they work, and my DRL also work. I notice a bit of a flicker on start up though.
I need to wait until a new day to replace the fogs. Still a little too cold and wet to get in behind the wheel well and remove the lining to fight my way into the fogs. I might as well wait for a day to drop the bumper anyway and do the sport horns at the same time
I need to wait until a new day to replace the fogs. Still a little too cold and wet to get in behind the wheel well and remove the lining to fight my way into the fogs. I might as well wait for a day to drop the bumper anyway and do the sport horns at the same time
#48
07-05-2018, 08:54 AM
2016 EX. No issues with running fogs and led lights and I have them both set to auto on. Much better then stock
No resistors needed (unless they came bundled with the lights in the same package).. Nothing was replaced except the lights themselves
No resistors needed (unless they came bundled with the lights in the same package).. Nothing was replaced except the lights themselves
#50
08-02-2018, 03:28 PM
Need to contact superbringtleds as my one foglight has started to flicker, and it is noticeably less bright then the other. Today it was completely out, so either i have a plug coming loose or the bulb finally died out
#51
06-27-2019, 12:10 AM
i hope i am not beating the dead horse, but i had few questions;
1. I see repeating terms; H4 and 9003 when it comes to naming LED light that fits GK5. is this like socket/part number that gk5 healdlight uses?
2. Voltage. i completely forgot to think about voltage of bulbs. it looks like ~12V is optimum since GK5 uses small battery?
3. LED lights from SuperbrightLED stores doesn't seems to require any other parts (eg. regist). everyone who installed those light, is it still worlking fine ?
1. I see repeating terms; H4 and 9003 when it comes to naming LED light that fits GK5. is this like socket/part number that gk5 healdlight uses?
2. Voltage. i completely forgot to think about voltage of bulbs. it looks like ~12V is optimum since GK5 uses small battery?
3. LED lights from SuperbrightLED stores doesn't seems to require any other parts (eg. regist). everyone who installed those light, is it still worlking fine ?
#52
06-27-2019, 01:02 AM
I was convinced the LED that I bought for $90 would work. The light was bright white, but the main projection of the light was too close in front of the car for comfort. If I raise the housing, I would blind everyone on the road. I returned them and got my money back in full. Be careful, not all H4 LED light are the same. Mine had two LEDs on what looked like a circuit board. Onr on top and one on the bottom of the board. Those two chips suppose to simulate the H4 halogen lamp. They do not. I suggest you google and read up on plug and play LED before buying them. I went back to my SYLVANIA 9003/H4 SilverStar Ultra Halogen Headlight Bulb. They were replacement of the low power OEM bulbs.
#53
06-27-2019, 07:11 AM
Thank you for your insightt.
As for SYLVANIA ULTRA light bulbs, r they yellowish color or white?I see some ppl saying that even though its halogen bulb,its white color
As for SYLVANIA ULTRA light bulbs, r they yellowish color or white?I see some ppl saying that even though its halogen bulb,its white color
#54
06-27-2019, 07:28 AM
I was convinced the LED that I bought for $90 would work. The light was bright white, but the main projection of the light was too close in front of the car for comfort. If I raise the housing, I would blind everyone on the road. I returned them and got my money back in full. Be careful, not all H4 LED light are the same. Mine had two LEDs on what looked like a circuit board. Onr on top and one on the bottom of the board. Those two chips suppose to simulate the H4 halogen lamp. They do not. I suggest you google and read up on plug and play LED before buying them. I went back to my SYLVANIA 9003/H4 SilverStar Ultra Halogen Headlight Bulb. They were replacement of the low power OEM bulbs.
Did the bulbs have a fixed orientation on the base, or did you try to rotate them on the base to see if that made any difference?
#55
06-27-2019, 07:59 AM
First I installed them incorrectly, the chips were orientated sideways. I was able to rotate the bulb to position the chips up and down. There were no instructions that came with the bulbs. I had to communicate with them by email several times to get things figured out. Even with the correct orientation, the Honda Fit lamp housing did not provide the light projection like the OEM halogen. The bright white light was all over the place. The main aim was too close in front of the road. I sent them several photos of the projection. Even though their policy was a 20% restock, they did not charge me for returning them, but I had to pay $6 to ship them back to Irvine, CA. Like I said, not all H4 LED are created equal. LED bulb is trying to simulate the same projection as halogen bulb. The Fit housing was designed for uniform lighting from halogen bulb. My suggestion is, the more chips that are in the LED bulb, the better it simulates the light coming from a halogen bulb. That is why you see many LED chips in tail lights. Some mfg use organic LED (OLED) that looks like plasma, continuous lighting. OLED is more expensive than LED. The Fit uses LED tail lights, not OLED. You will see both LED and OLED in the more expensive cars.
Last edited by wasserball; 06-27-2019 at 08:12 AM.
#57
06-27-2019, 08:31 AM
Sorry, I was so frustrated I dumped them. My suggestion, if you do go with LED, the more chips in the bulb the better it simulates the coil filament in a halogen in projecting light in the Fit's housing. Two chips just won't do it, at least I wasn't satisfied.
#58
06-27-2019, 08:39 AM
3. LED lights from SuperbrightLED stores doesn't seems to require any other parts (eg. regist). everyone who installed those light, is it still worlking fine ?[/QUOTE]
My SuperbrightLED set up is going great with no issues.
My SuperbrightLED set up is going great with no issues.
#59
06-27-2019, 08:45 AM
Same here with the ones I bought at SuperbrightLED. I did have to change the orientation initially, but that didn't take any time at all. I haven't been flashed since installing them and they really light up the backroads on my commute.
#60
06-27-2019, 12:17 PM
i am looking into buying H4 9003 that sells on SBL store.... =S
LEDs have longer life span then halogen lights?
LEDs have longer life span then halogen lights?