The solution is take it back and have them replace them.

 

 

I'm pretty sure you caught them trying to pull a fast one. They called you because they were caught. Have them do the TSB! When done call Honda & report their sorry arses.

 

I know the dealer replaced mine, because they dented the door sills, chipped paint, smeared sealer on the windows and caused a leak in the left rear door while they had the doors apart.

 

Oh my god, the mechanic must be low end and sucks, how can they do that... do they know what they doing? You should take a photo and pic of everything before they work on the area.

Go back and demand the repair and repaint.

 

+1

They didn't do as bad of a job on mine but I could tell they did it because I used a flashlight to shine into the crevice. I had done that to check to see if I needed the recall or not.

For me, it was grease all over the door jambs and outside handles. Plus when I got home, I found scratches where they must have used a screw driver to pry the door panel. I had them fix the scratches through a body shop. I know they took it to a bodyshop because my dash cam showed them driving it there and I have the footage while they moved it around. Another reason a dash cam is bonus

This is why I avoid the dealership for maintenance items. Everytime I've taken my car there it has had to go back for them to fix something they screwed up.

 

When they did mine they told me they'll check to see if they have to be done first. They did them all because I noticed the material in the crevice is some sort of whiteish plastic as opposed to the rusty metal before. But I did not have any smear marks to complain about. They finished the same day too.

 

I had those effin' smear marks for months, cleaned and cleaned and cleaned and still they'd come back. It was maddening.

 

 

I am so glad I use Leith Honda in Raleigh.

When the screen on my LX failed, the car was returned perfectly clean and no rattles appeared in the dash area.

Leith follows up on every work order to be sure you are satisfied.

 

I remove graffiti as a part time gig. Mostly metal surfaces that don't have clearcoat. I would recommend acetone/paint thinner but only for windows/plastic parts. Apply some on a rag and wipe away. You can apply a layer of WD40 first to alleviate the pain because acetone is ultra aggressive. Make sure paint surfaces stay clear of it or else you'll strip away the clearcoat in a split second. Just my 2 cents.

You can also use WD40 only, and wipe away for a good 5+minutes. WD40 has excellent cleaning properties but it is time consuming, benefit being that it protects & lubricates surfaces. It evaporates quickly [i.e. less than 1 hr for very thin layer applications].

For clearcoated metal surfaces, use WD40 as a thin top coat and then apply brake fluid. I buy my brake fluid at my local dollar store. Let sit for a few minutes, and rub away with a rag. You will be rubbing for a good 5 to 10 minutes and apply WD40 some more as you keep rubbing. Apply WD40 as final layer and wipe away cause the brake fluid will do some nasty damage to paint if you let it sit for hours.

Specialized $10 "Goo off" type products are nothing but solvents in a bottle.

Brake fluid only works as well, but it's slower and very nasty; it stains and odour stays there for days; but it removes permanent marker extremely effectively off metal. Wear gloves/hand protection and make sure you're in a ventilated area/outdoors and have extra paper towels at the ready.