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So after installing a lowering spring (yea the other side isn't done yet), I noticed that the top piece of the strut is not sticking up as high as it was before. I'm wondering if I didn't reassemble it correctly. Everything is definitely tight. There's no wobble and no noise when driving. But thinking about it, i can't come up with a scenario where that height should have changed at all.
The threaded rod is flush with the flange nut, where before it stuck up about a half inch and had a little rubber cover thing on it.
Can anyone put my concerns to rest? Or tell me I screwed up.
Got the seized one off today, put the lowering spring on and re-assembled. It was replaced with an aftermarket KYB Excel G strut, but this one also left less threads showing. It has about 1 thread poking through.
I disassembled the other side just to make sure and everything looked good, and ride height is even on both sides, so i'm not going to worry about it too much. Those nuts only get 33 ft/lbs of torque, so they don't need to be mashed onto the threads anyway. Just an FYI.
A local down here in San Diego had an issue where his top nut refused to come out.... I'm starting to think Honda really goofed and this may be affecting multiple owners
A local down here in San Diego had an issue where his top nut refused to come out.... I'm starting to think Honda really goofed and this may be affecting multiple owners
maybe the thread pitch is wrong causing cross threading?
I put my springs on last night and I was thinking about your install and the way the top of the strut was lower when you were done. I did not experience that and I'm thinking that something in the top of your strut assembly must not be seated. With the bearing that's in there and all, you may consider taking another look?
I put my springs on last night and I was thinking about your install and the way the top of the strut was lower when you were done. I did not experience that and I'm thinking that something in the top of your strut assembly must not be seated. With the bearing that's in there and all, you may consider taking another look?
On the first side I did (the one that is definitely lower), when I pulled the top hat and dust boot out, everything fell apart, and I had to reassemble the bearing with new grease and everything. This was my main concern for what I may have messed up.
When I did the second side, I pulled the top assembly out in one piece and had no issues. Then I reassembled on the new strut. This one has the stud all the way through the top nut, but not far enough to put the little rubber booty on, and I know it is put together in the correct order. My only thought is that I did not use a spring compressor when I reassembled the strut assembly. Is it possible that the spring pressure is what allowed me to apply the torque, but that wasn't actually in the fully torqued position. Meaning, if I compress the spring and tighten down the nut that holds the bearing on, would the nut travel further downwards? That would shift everything up and fix my issue.
Did you compress the springs prior to torquing down the nut that holds the spring assembly onto the strut? That's the only place I can think I did differently. But now it's definitely bothering me and it's going to get tore apart again no matter what.
On the first side I did (the one that is definitely lower), when I pulled the top hat and dust boot out, everything fell apart, and I had to reassemble the bearing with new grease and everything. This was my main concern for what I may have messed up.
When I did the second side, I pulled the top assembly out in one piece and had no issues. Then I reassembled on the new strut. This one has the stud all the way through the top nut, but not far enough to put the little rubber booty on, and I know it is put together in the correct order. My only thought is that I did not use a spring compressor when I reassembled the strut assembly. Is it possible that the spring pressure is what allowed me to apply the torque, but that wasn't actually in the fully torqued position. Meaning, if I compress the spring and tighten down the nut that holds the bearing on, would the nut travel further downwards? That would shift everything up and fix my issue.
Did you compress the springs prior to torquing down the nut that holds the spring assembly onto the strut? That's the only place I can think I did differently. But now it's definitely bothering me and it's going to get tore apart again no matter what.
I did not need a spring compressor to install the new springs (nor did I use an impact wrench). In fact I didn't bother using compressors to remove the second spring from the strut. But then again, Danger is my middle name...
Originally Posted by evilchargerfan
I did not use spring compressors for my d2 springs, b&g, nor my tein's. impact gun, ftw
Still waiting for my Bisimoto to ship; I blame you...
prior to ordering mine, I think their website said like 10+ in stock or something along those lines. perhaps, I should have approached Bisimoto and asked nicely, for a partial sponsorship.
we've seen a flux in bisimoto exhausts on the forums as of late, and now they only show 3 in stock
