Car info: 2015 Fit LX w/ CVT
Question:
The CVT transmission fluid what are the thoughts on using:
Castrol 06811 Transmax ATF CVT Transmission Fluid (Honda HCF-2 rated)

 

Haven't seen any replies to the question. Is it a good replacement for the Honda fluid?
Edit; Seems like it is. I'm getting a quart to top up the what I have of the HCF-3.

 

I have learned the hard way that not all oils play nice. This is really true with Auto Transmissions.
I only run the OEM oil. I find the cost not much off from the aftermarket oils.

The CVT oil looks and feels more like normal oil then automatic transmission fluid.

As for the rating on the Castrol oil, its because they paid for that certification. That's from an oil friend of mine. I used what said it was rated for a Scion and the clutches start slipping in a couple days. At the time it only had 30K miles on it. I changed the oil with OEM oil and then again after 500 miles and slipping went away. That was ATF-4 at $6-7 per qt. vs the HCF oil. In my case both oils said they were rated for my needs.

 

Agreed. I looked up the prices and the difference is less than $2/quart. Why take the chance? I'm going with the OEM.

 

The drain plug crush washer for the GK Fit is a 25.5 mm OD and 18 mm ID washer

90471-PX4-000

 

This it the way I would do it. However you neglected to mention whether the tubing was 1/2 inch outside diameter or 1/2 inch inside diameter (OD or ID).

I would also consider using a little hand oil pump instead of a funnel and tube. Reason for using the side hole is that the spec for filling the transmission is to fill it until oil reaches the bottom of the side hole and starts dribbling out – fill so that, with the car level, the oil level in the transmission is even with the bottom of the side fill-hole.. By using the side hole, it is easier to make sure you get the exact amount of oil needed. You could measure the oil and then fill from the top hole but I think it is easier to get a more precise fill if you use the side hole as I described. A way to use the top hole the most precisely would be to fill through the top hole, with just slightly more oil than the specs say is needed, and then open the side hole and let the extra oil drip out.

One reason for not trusting a shop to do this job is that they may overfill. They may use a pump, often an electric pump, to put oil in through the side hole, put in too much oil, and hurriedly shove the plug into the hole before any oil drips out thinking "the more oil the merrier.". I think this is a very common mistake made by the dumb-ass, over-confident idiots whose motto is "I have confidence in my abilities, I know what to do; I don't need to read no freakin' instruction manual." It is perfectly possible to fill the transmission correctly with an electric pump but you have to know not to overfill and you have to proceed carefully.

 

Are there are 2 crush washers, one for the drain plug, one for the fill plug? If so, are they both the same size or are they different sizes?

 

You will also need the fill bolt (fill plug) crush washer - which it turns out is not a 18 mm ID like the drain plug crush washer (#27 on diagram). In the middle of the CVT oil change transfusion, I didn't have a replacement fill bolt washer - a certain dealer Bern@di H%onda gave me two 18 mm for both after looking them on the parts fiche.

So you will also need part 94109-20000 crush washer (20 mm) #34 on diagram for sealing the filler bolt.



GK Fit CVT Transmission Parts

 

My toplines on my first GK Fit CVT transmission fluid change at 51200 miles:

1. Changed the fluid based on mileage not the computer (still waiting for the code to appear for CVT oil change)
2. plan for more time than an oil change
3. Perform an oil change while your underneath
4. per the instructions in an earlier post - please make sure the engine and CVT fluid is completely at operating temperature. The fan might not turn on when you're doing the CVT transfusion at an outside temp of 45 °F. I drove the car around then let it idle with the front hood (bonnet) closed. The transmission oil is fully at temperature if you cannot touch the CVT pan or drain bolt or CVT fill bolt (CVT is that hot).
5. Plan for CVT fluid at temperature to: (1) be $%^$@ hot and (2) come out with a fury and get everywhere. I used a milk jug cut to catch the backsplash and direct it down to the pan. (also works for draining the coolant from the block as this is a horizontal shot)
6. My magnetic drain pan bolt only had a thin film of black particles that easily wiped off the magnet
7. Refill the transmission fluid with the car level - if it's up on front ramps - the difference may be about +200 mL more than is needed for a straight level refill.
8. I shifted from PRNDSL back to LSDNRP leaving 5 sec for each drive mode and did this 3 times when I first started the car (cold new CVT oil) and again 3 times when the CVT oil was full at operating temperature.
9. Car level - rechecked the fill both fluid level - it was down about 150 mL - had to add more one last time
10. I needed 4 (US qt) bottles (about 934 mL/bottle) as I used about 300 mL of fresh CVT oil as a chaser to clean out the pan (ended up with only 50 mL to spare at end)
11. Do not overfill - service tech told me that an overfill situation is as bad as underfill but couldn't explain why.

 

Does anyone know where to get the fluid, other than at a Honda dealer? Last time I got it on Amazon. This time, I ordered it but it never came. Had to get a refund. There were no other sources listed on Amazon. Autozone can't get it.

Any ideas?

 

Honda only calls out HCF-2. If it were my car, I would buy the Honda HCF-2 as HCF-2 compliance doesn't means they have all of the stuff that Honda requires and none of the stuff they do not need. Differential fluid is the same way on Honda - use their fluid or else. The CVT replacement is too expensive. Coolant and oil are easy - follow the wide open specs that Honda provides and is met by manufacturers.

 

I've been burned by fake Amazon sellers. You will not find 4 qts for Honda HCF-2 for less than $85 online.

 

Check this out

 

This entire Thread has what you need for a transmission change (that's what I followed and added to it above). Read the entire Thread to plan the transmission change work including tools and cleanup.

 

Just did my '16 for the third time at 118000 miles.

I cannot stress how important it is to include the step where after filling, you put the filler plug in, start the engine and cycle through all the gears. Then you remove the plug and top off the transmission. My tranny always takes about 1/3 to 1/2 of a quart more fluid to top off.

I'm so glad we have the internet to help us with jobs like this.

 

Is there a good place to grab a funnel that will work for this with leaving the airbox in place?

 

Find an 18" piece of tubing that will fit into the filler hole. Attach your funnel to one end. Stick the other end in the filler hole. You don't have to take off the airbox to do this.
***** I THINK I stuck the end of the tube into the filler hole from the bottom. That is, I think I was under the car, and I reached up and put the tubing in the hole. Couldn't do it from up above.

Hope this answers your question.

 

There's a few holes so just to make sure we're on same page:
1) Cap at the top (typically filler hole)
2) Check plug hole (for checking fluid level)
3) drain plug

Can you clarify which one you are referring to? (not #3 of course)

 

The hole that I put the hose into would be #2, the Check Plug Hole. I drain from the bottom, #3, and fill through #2. I've never accessed #1, although I've seen it when fiddling with other stuff. Ignore hole #1.

 

That makes sense based off the videos I've been watching, I'm going to do it today. Thanks!