2017 EX Transmission Oil Change?
2017 EX Transmission Oil Change?
Does anyone have a link to a video and/or instructions on how to change the transmission fluid in a 2017 Honda Fit? I also need to find out what type of oil it takes and the size and quantity of crush washers needed. Thanks!
I have the text:Transmission Fluid (HCF-2) Replacement
NOTE
Applicable vehicles:
Replacement
NOTE: Keep all foreign particles out of the transmission.
Transmission Fluid (HCF-2) Capacity:
3.4 L (3.6 US qt) at change
4.2 L (4.4 US qt) at oil pan, valve body, and transmission fluid pump removal, installation, and replacement*
5.7 L (6.0 US qt) at overhaul
NOTE: *Reference transmission fluid (HCF-2) capacity when working time is 30 minutes. The actual transmission fluid (HCF-2) capacity will vary from the specified capacity based on the length of time the transmission fluid pan is off the transmission. Avoid leaving the transmission fluid pan off for extend periods of time.
NOTE
Applicable vehicles:
- 2015-18 Honda FIT; CVT
Replacement
NOTE: Keep all foreign particles out of the transmission.
- Engine - Warm Up
- Start the engine, and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on twice).
-
- Turn the engine off.
- Transmission Fluid - Drain
-
- Remove the drain plug (A) with the sealing washer (B), and drain the transmission fluid for at least 5 minutes.
-
-
- Remove metal particles from the magnetic surface of the drain plug.
- Be careful not to burn yourself by the hot part.
-
-
- Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer.
- Transmission Fluid - Refill
-
- Remove the filler plug (A) and the sealing washer (B).
-
- Refill the transmission with the recommended fluid into the filler plug hole (A) until transmission fluid overflows. Always use Honda HCF-2 Continuously Variable Transmission Fluid.
Transmission Fluid (HCF-2) Capacity:
3.4 L (3.6 US qt) at change
4.2 L (4.4 US qt) at oil pan, valve body, and transmission fluid pump removal, installation, and replacement*
5.7 L (6.0 US qt) at overhaul
NOTE: *Reference transmission fluid (HCF-2) capacity when working time is 30 minutes. The actual transmission fluid (HCF-2) capacity will vary from the specified capacity based on the length of time the transmission fluid pan is off the transmission. Avoid leaving the transmission fluid pan off for extend periods of time.
-
- Temporarily install the filler plug with the sealing washer.
- Transmission Fluid - Add
- NOTE: Add transmission fluid after the shift lever operation without spending too much time.
- Lower the vehicle.
-
- Start the engine, and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on twice).
-
- While pressing the brake pedal firmly, shift in turn the transmission to PRNDSLSDNRP position/mode (without paddle shifters)/PRNDSDNRP position/mode(with paddle shifters), and wait for at least 3 seconds to each position.
-
- Turn the engine off.
-
- Raise the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported.
-
- Remove the filler plug (A) and the sealing washer (B).
-
- Add the transmission with the recommended fluid into the filler plug hole (A) until transmission fluid overflows. Always use Honda HCF-2 Continuously Variable Transmission Fluid.
-
- Reinstall the filler plug with a new sealing washer.
- HDS - Connect
-
- Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
-
- Turn the vehicle to the ON mode.
-
- Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle. If it does not communicate, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting.
@Jazu, thanks for the info. Is this something an owner can do?
In looking at the YouTube videos online, it looks very similar to how I replace my 2012 Honda CR-V rear differential fluid. Also, aside from a possible torque wrench, are any special tools required? In the YouTube video I watched the author is using a funnel with a long tube to reach the CVT fill plug.
Thanks again for your help.
In looking at the YouTube videos online, it looks very similar to how I replace my 2012 Honda CR-V rear differential fluid. Also, aside from a possible torque wrench, are any special tools required? In the YouTube video I watched the author is using a funnel with a long tube to reach the CVT fill plug.
Thanks again for your help.
You should do it yourself. The hardest part of the CVT fluid change out is reaching the fill hole, which requires a flexible tube and a funnel. I was lazy and had the Honda Dealer do it for me at 50K miles. The quote was $89.95, but with the HIDDEN added "shop charge" of $15.25 misc the total cost came out to be $108.54. It was a rip off that I considered a lesson learned. Yea, the charge includes the customer lounge with a TV, chairs, coffee, water, snack, etc. But, I never took advantage of them. You can buy the recommended Honda transmission fluid, HCF-2 for about $9/quart. These days, there are a lot of maintenance videos in the internet. Some are well done and some are really bad. At least, the producers were informative. Thanking them!
Last edited by wasserball; Jan 2, 2020 at 09:34 AM.
You should do it yourself. The hardest part of the CVT fluid change out is reaching the fill hole, which requires a flexible tube and a funnel. I was lazy and had the Honda Dealer do it for me at 50K miles. The quote was $89.95, but with the HIDDEN added "shop charge" of $15.25 misc the total cost came out to be $108.54. It was a rip off that I considered a lesson learned. Yea, the charge includes the customer lounge with a TV, chairs, coffee, water, snack, etc. But, I never took advantage of them. You can buy the recommended Honda transmission fluid, HCF-2 for about $9/quart. These days, there are a lot of maintenance videos in the internet. Some are well done and some are really bad. At least, the producers were informative. Thanking them!
Does anyone know the hole size for the transmission fluid fill hole? I'm looking for a funnel with a tube to make installing the CVT oil a little easier. After looking at various automotive products, most of which were cheap, I found this. The only problem is the tube is fairly large at 1" in diameter.
Actually, one of these might be better. Do you think one of these will work, given the placement of the fill plug?
Yes- there's no other way to pump up to the case other than one that is gravity fed (another Plews product). In the case of the "sealed" transmission - you'll never get a gravity fed valve with a long-enough transfer tube to pump from a higher position.
I was going to recommend the same - after using the Plews products for many MT, Diff, and ATF fluid changes. Always buy one more than you need (to have one on hand at all times) or clean one up by letting it drip dry (do not use detergent and water - you'll never get it out). I've had to refill a leaking case on off-road machines after damage and used a spare I had in my tool board.
I was going to recommend the same - after using the Plews products for many MT, Diff, and ATF fluid changes. Always buy one more than you need (to have one on hand at all times) or clean one up by letting it drip dry (do not use detergent and water - you'll never get it out). I've had to refill a leaking case on off-road machines after damage and used a spare I had in my tool board.
Last edited by Jazu; Jan 2, 2020 at 01:29 PM. Reason: I like editing
Thanks!
Wow! That's a whole lot easier. So to remove the airbox all I need is a 10mm swivel socket? Will this work? https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-80...8025742&sr=8-5
Thanks!
Thanks!
https://www.harborfreight.com/univer...-pc-63141.html
here’s how I did it. I removed the air box, it made filling a million times easier.
https://youtu.be/v1X8eOb1sGs
https://youtu.be/v1X8eOb1sGs
The ONLY problem I had was I removed both of the small hoses coming from the metal piece on top of the engine and quickly discovered that one of them was filled with antifreeze. So, for anyone following these instructions, DO NOT remove the small hose going underneath of the intake valve. Also, in my particular case, I did not need to use a swivel socket, so that saved me an additional $12.75.
Last edited by RavenManiac; Jan 17, 2020 at 12:30 AM.
Don't omit the step where you cycle the shift lever then recheck the fluid level. Mine took a considerable top-off amount. Maybe 1/3 to 1/2 quart.
Did I miss something? Which crush washers did you end up getting? I could only find one size, so I ended up reusing one of the washers - I don't remember which one.
Did I miss something? Which crush washers did you end up getting? I could only find one size, so I ended up reusing one of the washers - I don't remember which one.
Don't omit the step where you cycle the shift lever then recheck the fluid level. Mine took a considerable top-off amount. Maybe 1/3 to 1/2 quart.
Did I miss something? Which crush washers did you end up getting? I could only find one size, so I ended up reusing one of the washers - I don't remember which one.
Did I miss something? Which crush washers did you end up getting? I could only find one size, so I ended up reusing one of the washers - I don't remember which one.
Hmm. I did cycle through the gears, but I didn't check the fluid levels because it's a royal pain in the butt just to access the CVT. How were you able to check the fluid levels without a dipstick? As far as the crush washer, I purchased one from my local Honda dealer. The price was a ridiculous $3.15 and that was discounted. 

Then I removed the side hole plug and added fluid until it dribbled out. (This is where it took another 1/3 to 1/2 quart.)
Then I replaced the side hole plug and I was done.
Just changed the CVT fluid yesterday at 30K Bought 4 qt on ebay $45 shipped with new washer.
The oil comes out fast as the viscosity is low. Drain pan should touch tire.
To fill I made a L out of some 5/8 copper tubing. Mainly because I have it and it works. I bent the L and put a transmission funnel into the top of the tubing. I did't measure the hole, but found I could not stick my index finger inside to check the fluid level, had to use pinky finger.
Took a tad less than 3.5 qt before it flowed out the filler hole. So slow down at 3.25 qt or you will have a mess.
Notes: Before draining the fluid level, I tried to check the level, but was unable to because of internal components could not get my pinky in there.
I put all 4 tires on some 4x4 blocks to get access to remove the plastic access cover that covers the bottom of the engine area.
Tools: 17mm fill plug, 3/8 breaker bar drain plug.
CVT holds 8 qt Roughly 3.5 qt drain out of the unit.
Buy 4 qt to do an oil change.
The oil comes out fast as the viscosity is low. Drain pan should touch tire.
To fill I made a L out of some 5/8 copper tubing. Mainly because I have it and it works. I bent the L and put a transmission funnel into the top of the tubing. I did't measure the hole, but found I could not stick my index finger inside to check the fluid level, had to use pinky finger.
Took a tad less than 3.5 qt before it flowed out the filler hole. So slow down at 3.25 qt or you will have a mess.
Notes: Before draining the fluid level, I tried to check the level, but was unable to because of internal components could not get my pinky in there.
I put all 4 tires on some 4x4 blocks to get access to remove the plastic access cover that covers the bottom of the engine area.
Tools: 17mm fill plug, 3/8 breaker bar drain plug.
CVT holds 8 qt Roughly 3.5 qt drain out of the unit.
Buy 4 qt to do an oil change.
Last edited by R290; Jan 27, 2020 at 06:55 PM.


