Ok I am doing my first oil change my self and switching over to mobil 1 0w20.. the problem is I have no idea what filter to get... would it be the same as the previous models?

 

all three generations of Fits use the same oil filter.

In fact, Honda has used the same thread-pitch and opening sizes since the late 70s or early 80s across all the 4cylinder cars.


So do an upgrade and buy an OEM Honda S2000 oil filter. slightly bigger oil capacity, a little more oil pressure, and slightly more oil flow.

 

thanks for the tip!

 

Mobile 1 filters are nice, i’ve used them on my ep3 and my 08 civic sedan for the last 5 years. They are larger capacity filters then oem also. Here is a great review on oil filters. You can see how some of the competition falls short. If you do go oem the jdm filters are constructed the best.
NTPOG Oil Filter Review

 

Good luck! Let us know how it goes. I'm sure it won't be difficult, but I'm curious how many extra steps are required to remove and replace the bottom panel covers.

Also, just some food for thought, I saw these magnetic drain plugs when I was upgrading my shift knob and thought they could be a nice addition. What do you guys think? You can get the oil pan/transmission plug on ebay for around $25.

 

transmission plug is already magnetic.

 

Just did it.. used Mobil 1 0w20 and mobil 1 filter. The hardest part was the under cover lol I believe 3 screws and 1 screw/clip? on each side. Other then that Its same ol same ol.

 

Really? Sweet!

Did you have to use jack stands? I know it's tight under the car, but the oil plug and filter seem like they might be accessible by just reaching under with your hand... I haven't taken my bottom cover off though so maybe you can't. I used to change my oil in the Mustang by just reaching under, but it was a V6 so there was a ton of room in the engine bay to get a hand in.

Oh and out of curiosity, what was the mileage when you did the change and how do you reset the MM? Thanks for the info BLX!

 

I'm very curious as well about how you accomplished your oil change: jack-stands? do you have access to a lift?

If you used jack stands I'm encouraged and may go buy some. Just recently bought a "rapid-pump" floor jack from Harbor Frieght in anticipation of tire-rotation, oil changes etc. My oil life still at 70% so I have some time to prepare.

Please elaborate when you get a chance ... thanks!

 

I dont use a jack for oil changes. throw on an old shirt and slide under! Im a big stocky dude and my car is lowered as well.

 

No shit?!! Enough room to remove the undercover? Isn't everything right in your face? I haven't tried, just gave it a look-see.

This is good news ... I have plenty of old shirts and don't mind getting dirty! Will give it a test-run (sliding myself underneath) tomorrow.

Thanks to all for this thread!! Good info!

 

I dont bother removing the underpaneline. Just park the right front wheel over a big piece of wood to make sure the oil drips towards the center.

Obviously throw it into 1st or reverse, and rock the car before setting e-brake.

I have long arms though. the oil drain is a 14mm or 17mm wrench. Just be careful and dont round off the head!

The oil filter is easier if you grab a strip of rubber and wrap around the filter so you can grip it easier. Or you can use a leather belt you dont care about.

 

I used a 2 1/2 ton cap jack and jacked it up on the passenger side took off bottom cover, drained it through the bolt and then changed filter, rebolted and refilled. Then reset mm and called it a day.

 

Can you provide the Mobile 1 filter part number you used? Also, you said you reset the mm, can you tell me how that is done?

I used Mobile one oil and filters on my old 2000 Ford E-150, so when I went to the Mobile one site, I was surprised when they did not list a part number for the 2015 Honda Fit. As for resetting the mm, I am sure it is a simple thing, and I must look stupid for not knowing how it is done, but I admit, I don't know. Thanks!

 

Wix or NAPA Gold. Same filter, but very good quality.

 

also noticed the car isn't as loud after the oil change.. maybe its just me

 

What oil viscosity and filter did you use? These cars will get a little louder as the engine breaks in, and the packing material in the muffler breaks in.

 

I drive a GD3 and I use any full synthetic oil that's on sale. Currently using Castrol 5w20. I just buy two five gallon jugs every time they go on sale so that gives me about a year to wait until there is a sale again.

I'm currently using the Mobil 1 extended mileage filter. I've never noticed any difference in filters but after seeing the cardboard innards of Fram filters, I just don't know if I want that on my car. I know the current OEM honda filter is a Fram Tough Guard. I'm sure it's perfectly fine but everything is peachy with my Mobil 1 filter so why change.

In my experience, the engine noise does go down slightly right after an oil change.

I bought some rhino ramps on sale and let me tell you, it's the best 50$ investment I ever made. It makes raising the car for fluid changes very easy and it use it when touching up little scrapes and stone chips on my front bumper. Makes it less backbreaking than trying to paint that low area of the car when it's on the ground.

For a good oil change, you should also replace the crush washer that fits under the drain plug. I also use a ziplock style sandwich bag to dispose of the oil filter. Makes it much less messy. I also bought a cheap kitchen measuring cup from the dollar store so measuring the exact amount of oil is easy. I put in exactly the right amount (3.6 L). I used to just round off and put 3.5 litres but always found that I added a little oil afterwards so I stick to the exact measurement and rarely have to top it off.

Also, I kept a big piece of cardboard from a box containing a guitar. I put it under the car so I don't have to slide under there on the concrete driveway. Makes it just that bit less dirty and more pleasant.

Don't forget that the drain plug requires 29 ft/lbs of torque. It's not a crazy amount of torque but it is quite firm compared to most of the bolts on the Fit. Oil filter is only 8 ft/lbs I think so just hand tight is good enough. The harder you tighten it, the more you will curse when trying to remove it. You only need to compress the rubber ring.

 

I use Pennrite HPR 0w20 Oil, and Wix 57356. (I sell both if interested)

Highly recommend this setup, no oil consumption, quiet motor, and more MPG from what I can tell as I drive the same route everyday.

I also do some track days on my car from time to time and did not see any consumption between changes!

 

Oil filter torque is usually measured by the amount of turn after the rubber gasket ring touches the filter boss. It's usually 3/4 turn, but check the filter and box for the spec. Don't forget to put a drop of oil on the gasket ring to help it slide. I like the filter socket that fits over the end of the filter as it makes it easier to judge how far to turn.

I've found that OEM filters are actually cost-competitive with aftermarket ones and I just buy a couple at a time. It's awfully hard for a dealer to point at the filter as a cause of a failure if it is the one they sell!

Oh and retighten the drain plug after one or two heat-and-cool cycles as they tend to settle in.