3rd Generation GK Specific DIY: Repair & Maintenance Sub-Forum Threads discussing repairs and maintenance you can do yourself on the 3rd generation Honda Fit (GK)

Break in oil dont change till 8000!?

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  #21  
Old 10-20-2014, 08:12 PM
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piston ring ridge and ring only happens in older car it does not or rarely happen in modern engine esp brand new engine
most if not all modern engine does not require break in or break in periods.

so just drive normal.. if you wanna redline, do it.. if you wanna drive it conservatively do that. it really won't hurt the engine as long as it's properly maintained in the future
 
  #22  
Old 10-20-2014, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by LxFit
I now have 500 miles...I think the factory oil has cancer causing stuff and lead. So you should always wear some nitrile gloves,
I just cant see myself changing the oil filter and not the oil...
changing the filter and not the oil is actually a pretty common practice amongst some communities. especially when running synthetic oil. the filter will wear out before the additive pack is gone.
 
  #23  
Old 10-20-2014, 11:18 PM
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what do all those cars have in common?
 

Last edited by LxFit; 10-21-2014 at 08:44 PM. Reason: thank you sOx temporary grammatical error
  #24  
Old 10-21-2014, 04:44 AM
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Originally Posted by LxFit
what do all those cars have in commen?
They're all Hondas.
 
  #25  
Old 10-21-2014, 05:48 AM
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Originally Posted by s0x
This one always gets me. Here's the deal. You bought a sub compact young familly car. It's not a sports car. It's slow. Drive reasonably for the first few months. Second, Honda spends millions upon millions on research and development as well as selling some of the most respected sports cars of all time. See nsx, type r, and s2000 and you're some newb on a forum. You're not being held hostage. Break your car in the way its made to be broken in. If it was gonna hurt your car they wouldn't recomend it. Whatever you actually know or think you know about mechanical and chemical engineering. They know exponentially more. Be patient. Welcome to our forum ps. Take it back and bitch about the window its probably bad trim or something.
Thank you. We are driving little Shit Boxes as my wife calls them. They will run a long time with lots of abuse. Hell why even bother to change oil. Likely could get 50,000 before really needing a change.
 
  #26  
Old 10-21-2014, 09:49 AM
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Hey Bro, Don't get it twisted this is no SOHC Civic!
What do all the cars you listed have in common?

They are DOHC!
Honda has not released a DOHC hatch in the states for 10+ years...
I don't think you've drove a 2015 Fit.
My 2015 Fit takes it one step further w/ direct injection and Drive by wire technology engineered by Honda racing that set records for reliability in racing.
I was turning just over 2200 Rpm at 80Mph, is that slow?
Direct Injection makes torque early as 1800 rpm out of a 1.5
I am from a certain Ford forum but after driving the sub compact 2014 Mazda 3, I drove this 2015 Fit and fell in love.

The Fit even though it has a basic rear suspension, its high strength steel and monocoque chassis (racing and safety) make it drive better than a
uni-body "sub compact family car."
Im sorry but a monocoque ultra high strength steel chassis is no shitbox, Those might be its roots but time marches on...


So I hope it makes you feel better to belittle my
2015 DOHC Direct Injection Hatchback
"Less can be more, And a well engineered car can exceed its classification on paper."
 

Last edited by LxFit; 10-21-2014 at 11:45 AM.
  #27  
Old 10-21-2014, 10:16 AM
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I think extended oil changes work in 10 out of 10 times but the real goal is slow engine damage and sludge to get you back in the showroom in ten years call me paranoid but these things happen.

2015 Fit is competing For low cost of ownership and maintenance in its ratings and class this is the reason you wait so long to change oil ... Yes Honda Knows best, But theres no way I keep sludgy old oil in my new DOHC Honda

Thanks 2 everyone I will be looking for a Redline, Gibbs, or Royal Purple or another High quality conventional Break in Oil W/ Moly and Zinc.(zddp)

I will be changing break in at 3000 miles.
(Normally I change a new oil at 500 miles.)
(yes I know motor oil is better today but so are scams and planned obsolescence.)
 
  #28  
Old 10-21-2014, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by LxFit
Hey Bro, Don't get it twisted this is no SOHC Civic!
What do all the cars you listed have in common?

They are DOHC!
Honda has not released a DOHC hatch in the states for 10+ years...
I don't think you've drove a 2015 Fit.
My 2015 Fit takes it one step further w/ direct injection and Drive by wire technology engineered by Honda racing that set records for reliability in racing.
I was turning just over 2200 Rpm at 80Mph, is that slow?
Direct Injection makes torque early as 1800 rpm out of a 1.5
I am from a certain Ford forum but after driving the sub compact 2014 Mazda 3, I drove this 2015 Fit and fell in love.

The Fit even though it has a basic rear suspension, its high strength steel and monocoque chassis (racing and safety) make it drive better than a
uni-body "sub compact family car."
Im sorry but a monocoque ultra high strength steel chassis is no shitbox, Those might be its roots but time marches on...


So I hope it makes you feel better to belittle my
2015 DOHC Direct Injection Hatchback
"Less can be more, And a well engineered car can exceed its classification on paper."
No ones belittling your car dude. Im obsessed with my fit and it is the "shit box". I'm belittling your ignorance on the situation and your inability to properly spell the world common. Again, Be patient. Also I'm glad you were able to read the brochure before you bought your sub compact :thumb ups: clearly the marketing department did their job well. Welcome.
 
  #29  
Old 10-21-2014, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Black3sr
Thank you. We are driving little Shit Boxes as my wife calls them. They will run a long time with lots of abuse. Hell why even bother to change oil. Likely could get 50,000 before really needing a change.
Go ahead. Be the first one with a rejected warranty claim when it blows up.
 
  #30  
Old 10-21-2014, 05:21 PM
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Look it you guys want to settle this just send out a sample to balackstone labs and have them test it.

Change the oil when the light comes on and use top tier gas and you'll be fine. If it blows up I got my service records ready for a warranty claim.

And I don't consider the Fit a shitbox at all. It had a surprising amount of technology for such a low price. Stuff Toyota, Nissan, and others only have in thier $30k+ models.
 
  #31  
Old 10-21-2014, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by mecevans
Look it you guys want to settle this just send out a sample to balackstone labs and have them test it.

Change the oil when the light comes on and use top tier gas and you'll be fine. If it blows up I got my service records ready for a warranty claim.

And I don't consider the Fit a shitbox at all. It had a surprising amount of technology for such a low price. Stuff Toyota, Nissan, and others only have in thier $30k+ models.
using top tier class on the fit engine is just throw money down the drain
87 octane runs fine on the motor. the engine was design to run efficiently on lower grade fuel.

it's not going to burn cleaner, give more power or save more gas running top tier gas.
 
  #32  
Old 10-21-2014, 08:06 PM
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From a marketing standpoint- no, Honda does not want your engine to sludge up or fail in under, say, 150,000 miles. Because while that will get you to a dealership for another car, you'll likely be so pissed off it won't be another Honda.


So following the MM isn't going to steer you wrong.
 
  #33  
Old 10-21-2014, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by kenji815
using top tier class on the fit engine is just throw money down the drain
87 octane runs fine on the motor. the engine was design to run efficiently on lower grade fuel.

it's not going to burn cleaner, give more power or save more gas running top tier gas.
Top Tier fuel is a quality standard which Honda (and many others) reccomends.

You do get more power with 91, and it is optimized with either. If spending an extra dollar is that big of a deal to you use 87.
 
  #34  
Old 10-22-2014, 01:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Black3sr
Thank you. We are driving little Shit Boxes as my wife calls them. They will run a long time with lots of abuse. Hell why even bother to change oil. Likely could get 50,000 before really needing a change.
i definitely would not wait 50k miles haha i even still use full synthetic
 
  #35  
Old 10-22-2014, 02:32 AM
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Originally Posted by mecevans
Top Tier fuel is a quality standard which Honda (and many others) reccomends.

You do get more power with 91, and it is optimized with either. If spending an extra dollar is that big of a deal to you use 87.
page 21 http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/p...u/5A1515OM.pdf
Fuel recommendation: Unleaded gasoline with a pump octane number 87 or
higher required
i use 87 cuz there is no benefit in using higher octane.
maybe your butt dyno is telling you your getting more power.
the ecu is simply not configure to gain more out of higher octane fuel
you can put race gas 110 octane and it won't make a difference.
 
  #36  
Old 10-22-2014, 04:19 AM
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Originally Posted by mecevans
Look it you guys want to settle this just send out a sample to balackstone labs and have them test it.

Change the oil when the light comes on and use top tier gas and you'll be fine. If it blows up I got my service records ready for a warranty claim.

And I don't consider the Fit a shitbox at all. It had a surprising amount of technology for such a low price. Stuff Toyota, Nissan, and others only have in thier $30k+ models.
Originally Posted by mecevans
Go ahead. Be the first one with a rejected warranty claim when it blows up.
Boom! I blowed up.

Oh shit I am beyond wty what to do what to do?

Hmm to late for an oil change now.

Hey you Anals just do as Honda suggests.I think they know best. I have followed their instructions for 5+ yrs and my GE runs just fine.
 
  #37  
Old 10-22-2014, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by kenji815
page 21 http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/p...u/5A1515OM.pdf
Fuel recommendation: Unleaded gasoline with a pump octane number 87 or
higher required
i use 87 cuz there is no benefit in using higher octane.
maybe your butt dyno is telling you your getting more power.
the ecu is simply not configure to gain more out of higher octane fuel
you can put race gas 110 octane and it won't make a difference.
It's proven the ECU will advance timing more with higher octane. That is indisputable. More ignition timing advance = more torque. Most of this will be under the curve where the ECU is not using open loop fuel map. There is a max timing advance that it will not go past, but you will not hit that max on 87. This has been proven with scangauge, etc. When you are not WOT the ECU will be able to advance timing much more with a higher octane fuel. You may have to run a few tanks before it adjusts the maps to fully take advantage of it.

If you go from running 91 for a long time and go back to 87 the motor will ping a lot until the knock sensor and ECU realize it needs to back the timing off. It will get used to it in a little while and it won't be as bad. That's my experience anyway. Right now i'm running 87 mostly since i'm just commuting but I went through a long period of only running 91 and doing backroads driving, so I went through this phase recently.

I can pull hills in 4th using 91 that I would normally have to downshift to 3rd on 87. Also, the motor will never ping on 89 or 91, but it definitely will on 87, I can hear it.

The Fit is designed so that it can use 87, yes, because it's an economy car, but it's also designed to take advantage of higher octane.

This is not old school EFI with fixed vacuum advances, the ECU is pretty intelligent.
 
  #38  
Old 03-31-2015, 07:30 PM
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maybe I missed it but where in the manual does it list proper breakin instructions?

also where does it say first oil change doesn't need to be done until 8k?
 
  #39  
Old 03-31-2015, 07:50 PM
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The initial oil should be changed as per the maintenance minder, which may be more or less than 8000 miles—potentially a good bit more.

Try looking in the index for the break in procedure. Maybe they dropped it from the '15 manual. As I recall, it was pretty typical stuff—avoid driving like you stole it for the first 500 miles, and try to avoid extended periods at one speed for the first couple thousand. There was nothing surprising or particularly esoteric.
 
  #40  
Old 04-14-2015, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by DrewE
The initial oil should be changed as per the maintenance minder, which may be more or less than 8000 miles—potentially a good bit more.

Try looking in the index for the break in procedure. Maybe they dropped it from the '15 manual. As I recall, it was pretty typical stuff—avoid driving like you stole it for the first 500 miles, and try to avoid extended periods at one speed for the first couple thousand. There was nothing surprising or particularly esoteric.
Found it! Break-in instructions are in the side bar (fine print) on page 317 of the owner's manual.
 


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