3rd Generation GK Specific DIY: Repair & Maintenance Sub-Forum Threads discussing repairs and maintenance you can do yourself on the 3rd generation Honda Fit (GK)

Break in oil dont change till 8000!?

  #1  
Old 10-19-2014, 12:51 PM
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Break in oil dont change till 8000!?

Thanks for holding me Hostage Honda...

I am afraid to rev past 4 grand, till I get my first oil change and because Honda break-in oil is "un-obtanium".

I would very much like to change it early but per the owners manual and Honda I have to keep this break in oil and contaminents for longer than 5000 miles. Im sure this works, However is far from ideal...

can I get 4 quarts of this Molybdenum break in oil stuff or what?

Also my back windows make a ear drum busting wind buffeting noise at low Highway mph that I have not heard from anyones reviews?
 
  #2  
Old 10-19-2014, 01:15 PM
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Leave it in. The only difference between factory fill and the shelf stuff is less additives to promote break in and sometimes dye. Almost all engines now a days are run on an engine similator before installed into the car.

If your paranoid leave the stock oil in but replace the filter with a higher grade one. I like Napa Platinum Synthetic media, Wix , or Purolator filters.
 
  #3  
Old 10-19-2014, 01:42 PM
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wont I lose a bunch of break in oil when I pull of oil filter?

does the factory change the oil after there bench testing/break-in?
 
  #4  
Old 10-19-2014, 01:50 PM
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x2 on leaving the factory oil in.

However, there's absolutely no reason to avoid revving over 4000 rpm before you change the oil. There is some guidance in the manual for breaking in, but it isn't all that complex and it only covers the first few hundred miles IIRC.

As for the back windows, I assume you mean when you have them down and the front windows up? That has to do with the aerodynamics of the car, and the Fit isn't the only vehicle that behaves this way. The solution is to roll the front windows down some or roll the back ones up and use the vent/AC.
 
  #5  
Old 10-19-2014, 01:53 PM
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I've been alternating between beating on the car and cruising. Short shift with the padals @5k and engine brake up to 4k.
 
  #6  
Old 10-19-2014, 04:51 PM
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Also my back windows make a ear drum busting wind buffeting noise at low Highway mph that I have not heard from anyones reviews?
I have heard that side window visors help the buffeting, not sure if it work on the fit tho.
 
  #7  
Old 10-19-2014, 06:27 PM
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not going much above 4000 rpm has yielded me 43mpg yesterday in town.

keeping my first oil for no more than 5000...

I am at 400 miles I have noticed quieter engine idle & improved MPG 28 Mpg the first few trips...


 
  #8  
Old 10-19-2014, 08:49 PM
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The reason that people dump the oil is to get rid of any casting sand or metal chips that might be left in the engine.

With modern manufacturing methods there isn't a lot of that to worry about. The stock filter will take care of any particles that might have been floating around in the oil.

A new engine won't contaminate the oil chemically any more than an engine with miles on it so there is no reason to change the oil prematurely.
 
  #9  
Old 10-19-2014, 09:09 PM
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Reason for not changing oil early is because when the engine was assembled there was assembly lube inside and it helps protect the engine during initial break in.once you change oil the assembly lube would be gone.

While modern engine don't require break in period any driving won't damage engine unless you run low on oil.
 
  #10  
Old 10-20-2014, 01:18 AM
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Hard tellin', no knowin'...
i plan to leave my initial oil fill in 'till the minder says 15%, but I have changed the filter twice(about once every 3000 miles), not sure if it was a good idea or not, but it can easily be done. Used purolator pure one filters, not sure if mobil 1 or amsoil filters might be better, (I have trouble finding clear solid information on the performance of oil filters). You could catch all the oil that spills out and return it, (I would at least put it through a coffee filter to remove the road grime) but for top up I bought some Honda synthetic blend 0W20. You need lless than half a quart. There are particles too small to be stopped by the conventional oil filter. I do not know, maybe they are necessary as part of the wearing in process called 'break in' and "establish wear patterns."
With the engine fully warmed up, from time to time I would think it would be best to periodically briefly max the RPMs. At the top of the stoke the connecting rod is going to stretch a tiny bit further at the highest rpm than at lower rpm, and the piston is going to travel a tiny bit further up the cylinder wall. If it has never been there before it may encounter a ridge that could damage the top ring. I would think periodically hitting your highest rpms would prevent forming an abrupt rim within reach of the top ring.
 
  #11  
Old 10-20-2014, 11:54 AM
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I now have 500 miles...I think the factory oil has cancer causing stuff and lead. So you should always wear some nitrile gloves,
I just cant see myself changing the oil filter and not the oil...
 
  #12  
Old 10-20-2014, 11:59 AM
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I left mile in and didn't change the filter til 15%. I've got 170K miles now, It burns about 1/8 quart between changes now. Always go by MM. Guess I should have changed the break in oil sooner and changed oil more often. Guess I screwed up
 
  #13  
Old 10-20-2014, 12:07 PM
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Spreadhead,

1/8 a quart? That's like a cup! Oh no! Haha
 
  #14  
Old 10-20-2014, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by mecevans View Post
Spreadhead,

1/8 a quart? That's like a cup! Oh no! Haha


Actually it's 1/2 cup. Guess I better trade it in!
 
  #15  
Old 10-20-2014, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Oneoldphlaytis View Post
Hard tellin', no knowin'...
i plan to leave my initial oil fill in 'till the minder says 15%, but I have changed the filter twice(about once every 3000 miles), not sure if it was a good idea or not, but it can easily be done. Used purolator pure one filters, not sure if mobil 1 or amsoil filters might be better, (I have trouble finding clear solid information on the performance of oil filters). You could catch all the oil that spills out and return it, (I would at least put it through a coffee filter to remove the road grime) but for top up I bought some Honda synthetic blend 0W20. You need lless than half a quart. There are particles too small to be stopped by the conventional oil filter. I do not know, maybe they are necessary as part of the wearing in process called 'break in' and "establish wear patterns."
With the engine fully warmed up, from time to time I would think it would be best to periodically briefly max the RPMs. At the top of the stoke the connecting rod is going to stretch a tiny bit further at the highest rpm than at lower rpm, and the piston is going to travel a tiny bit further up the cylinder wall. If it has never been there before it may encounter a ridge that could damage the top ring. I would think periodically hitting your highest rpms would prevent forming an abrupt rim within reach of the top ring.
your theory are all wrong.
piston does not travel any further at 1000 rpm vs max rpm
changing filter at 3000 and at 5000 won't make different except empty your wallet.
 
  #16  
Old 10-20-2014, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by LxFit View Post
I now have 500 miles...I think the factory oil has cancer causing stuff and lead. So you should always wear some nitrile gloves,
I just cant see myself changing the oil filter and not the oil...
1st time i ever heard of such thing as cancer causing motor oil
 
  #17  
Old 10-20-2014, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by kenji815 View Post
your theory are all wrong.
piston does not travel any further at 1000 rpm vs max rpm
changing filter at 3000 and at 5000 won't make different except empty your wallet.
Rods stretch and compress under load.
 
  #18  
Old 10-20-2014, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by kenji815 View Post
1st time i ever heard of such thing as cancer causing motor oil
Fresh motor oil is completely safe. You could drink it if you wanted too.

Used motor oil has numerous carcinogens as a result of byproducts of combustion.
 
  #19  
Old 10-20-2014, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by kenji815 View Post
your theory are all wrong.
piston does not travel any further at 1000 rpm vs max rpm
Incorrect.

Originally Posted by mecevans View Post
Rods stretch and compress under load.
Correct.

Oneold's advice is good re: ridge and ring. Don't be afraid to redline while the break in oil is in. Just leave it in for ~4k miles or until the MM tells you to, whichever makes you feel warm and fuzzy inside.

Buffeting sound is due to hatchback design. You need to have the front windows down a tiny bit to avoid it.
 
  #20  
Old 10-20-2014, 07:20 PM
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Patience

This one always gets me. Here's the deal. You bought a sub compact young familly car. It's not a sports car. It's slow. Drive reasonably for the first few months. Second, Honda spends millions upon millions on research and development as well as selling some of the most respected sports cars of all time. See nsx, type r, and s2000 and you're some newb on a forum. You're not being held hostage. Break your car in the way its made to be broken in. If it was gonna hurt your car they wouldn't recomend it. Whatever you actually know or think you know about mechanical and chemical engineering. They know exponentially more. Be patient. Welcome to our forum ps. Take it back and bitch about the window its probably bad trim or something.
 

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