Is there an easy non-modifying way to run the power for an amp through the firewall without having to cut an existing wire boot or drill an new hole in the firewall and add a grommet? With a car that's only 2 weeks old, I really don't want to do any of this, but as I'm growing more accustomed to the car audio, I feel I'm missing the really low end that my subwoofer provided in my last car. Does anyone know if there is enough 'slack' in any of the existing wire grommets/boots that can allow an additional wire through?

 

What size power cable are you planning on running?

 

I have an 8 awg wire that I used in my corolla for the last year. I'm hoping it will be long enough. It went grim the battery near the front of the engine bay to main wire grommet around the driver side door edge and up and over the rear seat to the trunk. I would be surprised if it's short. It only powers a 400W amp.

 

I think 8awg will fit through the wire boot under/behind the brake reservoir. I hope anyway, that's where I'll be running a 4awg through.

 

Excellent, maybe I can give that a try next week. On the Corolla I poked a hole in the boot and taped everything as good as possible, but that car was pretty old. Thanks for the tip. I'll post after I give it a try. I still want have to get a cargo cover before I put the sub in the car. It's a BFM Autotuba, so it takes a fair amount if space. I've heard hatchbacks are great for trunk speakers compared to a separate trunk. :-)

 

I was thinking the same thing, but after 5%tint on the back you cant see through the hatch at all. Depending on how loud you like your music you may want to stick a little foam behind your license plate. After the holiday season I'll be getting my hardware together and starting my install thread. Are you replacing your headunit? What kind of amp are you using?

 

I'm planning on using a speaker line input adapter with the stock grass unit. I have a Dual xpe(?)2700, by no means is it great but it works the box says 400W and tuba speakers are extremely efficient. They're just large. I get static through the amp for some weird reason, like the sound of a wrapper crinkling. I would recommend better. ;-)

 

It barely fits but there is already a hole on the drivers side behind the front strut. Run it through that hole and you'll be fine. Im running a giant system plus other mods so trust me it works. No need to drill another hole.

 

Great! Do you have a picture you can post? I'll have to see where that is. What size wire did you run through it?

 

I have a 2awg running a 3500 watt system, 2 gauge wire for battery relocation and starting/charging system upgrade, a 4 gauge wire for full led/hid lighting conversion throughout the entire car, and miscellaneous small ground wires.

 

Sounds like a great setup. :-)

 

It is and really loud went through 2 windows before the hatch and back 4 windows were converted to lexan. Had to relocate the battery due to the stock one not having enough power and the engine bay is way to small to do anything with. Then the motor was swapped out for a 2.4l DOHC out of an 08 Acura TSX so the battery already being in the trunk makes swaps so much easier.

 

Does anyone have a picture they can share of where they passed a power wire from the battery into the car? This is only the second time I've installed an amp and subwoofer so this is still pretty new to me. I'm also not exactly sure what to look for either. If there is an existing grommet, would it have a cap so it looks closed, or would it just be an open hole through the firewall?

 

There's an open hole through the fire wall behind the driver side front strut

 

It's completely open Fittycnt? I took off some of the electrical tape on the main harness boot and passed my 4awg through it.

 

You pass the wire through the existing rubber boot. It's a tight squeeze and I have alot of wires going through it so I had to splice the boot a little more open than factory

 

Ok, sounds about like what I did with the main harness. Thanks!

 

Ya it follows the main harness to the interior fuses and then out to the trunk or wherever. No prob

 

Fitty, is that on the '15s too? Sorry, I wasn't sure what year you did all your work on.

I'll check it out again when I get home, in the 5 minutes of daylight I have left...can't wait till daylight savings time again.

 

Its true on all gd's and ge's not sure about the 15s but when it comes to technical stuff like that it HAS to be there in that area. If you put your head under your dash and look up where your pedals come down from you should get a more accurate sight where the hole is. May have to pull the carpet a little down but it's definitely there.