Thanks, I was looking around in the engine bay and the wheel well. That makes more sense on being able to find something.

 

Ya our engine bays are so small you're not gonna see it looking behind the engine

 

GotFit, on the 15's it is between the gas and brake pedals from the inside. From under the hood, when I did mine, I removed the cover from the intake and was able to get to it from there. It's pretty much right behind the intake box on the firewall, maybe a little lower.

 

Thanks for the replies. I need to see how much trunk I have left with the subwoofer in there. The Auto Tuba isn't tiny. But I'll likely have the amp back there too. What would you suggest as a trunk location to attach the ground wire to?

 

The rear seat brackets bolts are what I'm using. If you need a smaller bolt, then the bolt on the tie down ring.

 

I can't seem to be able to find the high level dongle that came with my amp (Dual XPE2700) so I'm deciding if I should buy whaever Line Out Converter Best Buy has (looks like a Metra brand for $15) or if I should just solder the high level wires directly to the amp. If I use the line out converter, is it typical for the REM wire to have to be connected for the amp to turn on? Since the head unit is stock I didn't know what it would be connected if it was required. Maybe I'll have to check out Radioshack to see if there are generic 5 wire connectors I can use in place of the original.

 

I did some reading around the 'net and will likely be using a Bussmann Add-A-Fuse to tap into a fuse, probably whichever uses the radio. Between than and a line out converter, I should have all the parts needed to get started installing the amp and sub. It's supposed to a fairly warm winter day tomorrow, too.

 

I looked by the pedals and found a plastic cap. I pulled it out and it was a yellow foam like material behind the firewall. Is this what I want to put the power wire through? I really didn't want to have to drill or poke anything in order to run the wire. I would be okay with poking a hole in the plastic grommet, but what is this yellow stuff? I think it might be the backing of the fabric-like material inside the engine bay.



In the picture is the arm for the brake pedal

 

Does the CVT GK Fit have a grommet where the clutch or clutch wire would go? I've been reading around on other Honda forums and it seems that those are a popular choice for running a power wire on an AT car. I've seen a few knockouts behind some of the sound deadening pull out pieces, but nothing that looks like it goes through the firewall. Any help is much appreciated.

 

I pulled out that grommet shown a couple posts above and pushed the power wire through to see where it would come out. Here's where that opening leads to.




Here's a closer look.




Here's the inside with the wire.




I ran the wire behind the sound insulation and had it come out in the opening above the kick panel and dropped it down into the wire tray along the doors. When I got to the back seat I wasn't sure what to do, so I ran the wire up along the seat and had the wire come out in the opening of the side trim where the seat anchors. It looks like my wire doesn't get pinched by the seat either in the upright position or the reclined position.




It looks like it might be snug in the picture, but it feels that it's still able to move freely.

 

Which is the proper wire to connect the REM wire for an amp? Is it the power antenna wire or will that only work if I'm tuning into a radio station?

I tried to splice wires at the rear door speaker, but I couldn't get the wires through the door grommet so I gave up. Maybe tomorrow I'll try one more time with it but I think I'm going to pull the head unit out and splice the wires there instead.

 

If you are close to the fuse panel, you can tap into like the "acc", "moonroof", "rear wiper", basically anything that would turn on when the key is turned and that would not compensate your car from moving when the fuse blows.

As for the power antenna, you are right on that some cars only have power to the antenna when it is on AM/FM. But you can always test it out to confirm for the Honda Fit.

 

Thanks FibrePunk. I actually completed the installation on Sunday. I didn't have time to post the rest of the install. I made one or two posts in the mod thread. I'll see what if I can find them and post them here...

I tapped into fuse 37 (accessory fuse) for the remote wire to my subwoofer amplifier. I used an Add-A-Circuit to piggy back on the accessory fuse. I learned that the fuses that were already in the panel have the stubby connectors and that it won't work with the piggy back fuse holder. Fortunately, the Add-A-Fuse came with 4 fuses, 3.5, 5.0, 7.5, and 10.0 amps. The Accessory fuse is a 7.5A so it's all set. I checked for power with the car off and there is no power going through the fuse. As soon as I turn on accessory it gets power. So that should work well for turning the amp on and off. The crimp didn't work too well so I taped it. I will probably have to solder it in the future.





To get the speaker/high level inputs for the amp I soldered speaker wire to the rear speakers. I used solid 14 ga. wire with the ends filed smooth to get through the boot/grommet between the door and car. It took a bit of patience to work it through, but it wasn't too awful. It thought about quitting when I couldn't just push the speaker wire through by itself. I actually fished it in two parts. I started by dropping the wire into the car down by the pillar and it came out near the bottom. I didn't even need to deal with removing that trim covering the pillar, actually. I was able to push the power and REM wire past it all and the speaker wire was reachable where it dropped down. After I got enough wire in the car to reach the trunk, then I fished the speaker wire through the boot. I decided it was probably easier to pull the wire into the door because the speaker baffle has a bigger opening making it easier to work with.

Here's the solid wire fished through.




Here's the speaker wire run through the boot.




Then I soldered the speaker wire to the tabs on the driver. I should have checked polarity, but I didn't. I'm assuming that in the picture, the tab on the right is the positive lead.



I did the same thing for the passenger/right side. I started by fishing the wire.




But this side has a slightly different pillar configuration I think because I couldn't just push/drop the speaker wire into the car. The wire wouldn't go straight down, but the boot was also "upside-down" compared to the driver/left side. I ended up using a length of string with a fishing weight on the end to drop down the pillar. The flash made the sinker a little hard to see in the picture.




I used that to pull the speaker wire into the car. Then I pulled the speaker wire into the door. It seems I only took a picture of the wire through the door for the left side because it essentially looks the same but I took a picture of the second speaker soldered so I might was well post it since I have it.




And these speaker must be pretty durable because I dropped a bead of solder from the iron on the cone where it meets the surround. It flattened out and splashed tiny beads of solder around the surround. I was able to gently peel it off with no visible damage and it still produces sound.

For the left door I ran the wire along with the power and REM wire to the trunk. The right door went partly up the fender and along the bottom of the back seat rests. In the future I may do that with the power, REM, and left speaker wire. I didn't realize that possibility when I ran the power and REM.

The subwoofer is the Autotuba designed by Bill Fitzmaurice. He sells speaker plans for fairly simple to build yet efficient loudspeakers and subwoofers. The trade off for having such a clean and efficient speaker is size. It's a horn design so it can produce big sound for a relatively small driver. The driver in the subwoofer is an 8" and it sings its heart out with the potential for a good punch.

I build the speaker about 15 months ago for the last car and it took up about 2/3 of the trunk. It takes up closer to 3/4 of the Fit's trunk. This is a cross section picture of the subwoofer before I put the side on and the driver chamber covers. You can see how the sound produced by the driver is naturally amplified by the path to the port.





I did decide to paint it before putting it in the Fit so that it actually looked like a finished product. I used a nice dark gray (Valspar's Tomcat) in an eggshell. This is how it fills the trunk with plenty of room for the trunk cover to fit over it.




This absolutely solved my dislike of the Fit's stock audio sounding flat and two dimensional. With the non directional low frequencies, the audio now fills the car making me feel enveloped in my music. It's actually such an amazing difference, even with the stock speakers, that I can't help but grin every time I'm driving with music going. I have the speaker wire adapters and the driver mount adapters to do the front and rear doors, but right now I'm super happy with what I have. Right now I couldn't be happier with the sound.

I also haven't had any static grumble from the subwoofer/amp, so I'm thinking I had a loose power connection somewhere when it was installed on my last car. I realized that when I was testing impedance with my multimeter and got similar sounds.

So my installation went pretty much how I wanted it to go. The only part of the car that was altered was the plastic grommet by the brake pedal. Besides that, nothing else was modified in any way, I just ran wires and zip-tied things in place.

 

GotFitB13:

Btw, did you get a chance to pull out the harness from the HU and looked at the pins and mapped them out?

Are they the same as like that of the 2013 Fit listed here?

2013 Honda Fit Car Stereo Wire Information

 

No, I never pulled the head unit, didn't need to. You can try searching for the 2015 hvac and radio diagrams the forum. That might have what you need. I used it for reference, I don't remember who is hosting it though.

 

For the GK LX, I pulled out the OEM HU, changed speakers, upgraded speaker wires. Unfortunately, OEM speaker wires do not match the color codes on the GE Fit (from the link you provided).

Here's the actual:

Speaker Wire Color code for 2015 Honda FIT GK LX
RIGHT FRONT RED +, GREEN -
LEFT FRONT WHITE +, BLACK -
RIGHT REAR BLUE +, PINK -
LEFT REAR PURPLE +, GRAY -

 

Here is mecevans' post with the wiring diagrams for the EX.
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-...-diagrams.html

 

Thank you. By chance you also have a pic of the OEM harness with the color wires to map out the pins? If possible I want to just plug in the aftermarket harnesses after I pull out the HU. TIA

 

Thanks.. So, you didn't use the aftermarket harnesses you bought?

 

No, but I didn't buy one for the head unit, just the door speakers. I had two JVC two way speakers but both got damaged.