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Cross posting my question from another thread, As I can't normally even find that thread...
To those that have gone before me...
I'm about to run/fish the power cable from the battery. Is there any issue running from the empty threaded terminal in the pic below (lower right) on the positive terminal block? I'm reading 12 VDC (more like 13.5 VDC).
just let me know so I don't accidentally produce 1.21 gigawatts. I drive 88 far too often to have to mess with time travel.
He said it's live. Well, he said it has 13.5V, which sounds about right if the engine is running and the alternator charging.
I cannot see any reason not to do what you are proposing. If you're connecting your fuse block via a wire to the terminal, 6 gauge or larger should be used for safety (as the fuse for that terminal is labeled as having 70A capacity).
I cannot see any reason not to do what you are proposing. If you're connecting your fuse block via a wire to the terminal, 6 gauge or larger should be used for safety (as the fuse for that terminal is labeled as having 70A capacity).
DrewE,
I'm running power to a powered sub. Relatively small (KSC-SW11, 8.5A rated maximum draw), and will be coming straight to an audio compensator ( virtually no draw), then to the sub; the line won't be going to the fuse panel. Just trying to determine what the best option is, since this was free, just trying to determine if one option is better than another. I'm not averse to running from the non-fused
The cable I'm running is touted as 8 GA, but my strippers show it closer to 10 GA. There is also a 20A inline fuse/holder for the install that came with the kit.
BTW, I re-measured with the car running; every option is reading 15.3VDC.
