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"Bumperplugs" In Modern Steel Metallic from Bumperplugs.com
Wheels & Suspension:
Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 205/50/16
Eibach Pro-Kit #(4091.140)
Rota Grid 16x7 +40 in Hyper Black (previous)
Enkei RPF1 16x7 +43 in F1 Silver (current)
OEM USDM Plastic Honda Center Caps #(44732-S9A-A00)
Gorilla Automotive Lugs 12x1.5
Engine:
AEM Intake 21-748C
Figured Id make a thread about what i'm doing with my GK5 and share any info I gather along the way.
I picked up my GK5 brand new from Norm Reeves in West Covina at the start of 2017. It replaced my previous daily driver, a 2006 Scion XB, that I was rockin for about 2 years while finishing school.
I always liked the GE and GD Generation of Fits. I actually intended to buy a used GE in 2013 but they were just a little out of my price range, which is how i ended up with my XB. When 2014 came around I started seeing some GK5's on the streets and wasn't a big fan. I always digged the GE and didn't think the GK looked quite as good for whatever reason. Well by the end of 2016 I was ready to sell my XB and I had come around on the GK5's looks enough to buy one.
Took off the front plate and bracket when I got home and ordered some color matched plugs from "Bumperplugs". Decided to head up to the mountains to try to get through some of the "break-in" miles and see what were dealing with.
So a few days later my plugs showed up.
I paid something like 30 bucks for them, not a great deal but I had just spent 20k on a new car so I wasn't going to have holes in my bumper. These plugs didn't even come close to fitting, I ended cutting/sanding off about 50% of the plastic on the ribbed areas to get them narrow enough but even then the plugs were too long and had to be cut in half to fit flush with the bumper.
Impressions:
Boy that's some expensive and poorly fitting plastic. I mean with some work it will fit perfectly but for 30 dollars It probably should have fit out of the box. The color is spot on, the metal flake is deep and rich under daylight.
A while back I had purchased a Maven Countersunk shift knob for the s2000. Its a nice brushed metal knob that provides a shorter throw to any car by lowering the overall height of the gear stick due to the depth and position of its threading. As far as I know, all honda knobs share the same thread pitch so I figured it would fit the GK5. Pictured below is my best attempt at measuring the height difference.
Impressions:
It lobs off at least a full inch in the gear sticks throw which results in a quicker gear shift. Its probably double the weight of the OEM plastic knob and overal feels a bit too heavy for the GK5. The leather boot is also free to move around as it no longer has an anchor when you ditch the OEM knob. I decided overall it wasn't for me and went back to the plastic knob. For now.
Install isn't to bad, You have to take out the center console which takes about 10 minutes but is mostly painless.
Impressions:
For those wondering you need both the knob and the boot, The USDM boot will not connect to the JDM knob as the plastic clips that connect the two are completely different. The JDM knob is wrapped in leather and is slightly taller than the USDM knob. The JDM knob is larger in roundness and fits my hand better as it feels less cramped. Minimal difference in shifting feel. The top of the knob is either a painted plastic or alloy that does not get hot in the sun.
Last month I took a road trip from SOCAL to Washington, I didnt stop much, but I managed to take a few photos when I could.
The fit is a great road trip car. Had plenty of room for 2 weeks of supplies and a bunch of beer. Its comfortable for long trips. The wind noise is moderate for a 2017 car (above 60mph), but coming from the xB, it could be worse.
I drove about 2200 miles in 10 days and averaged 36mpg (car said 38mpg). This was mostly highway miles, with 500 pounds of people/gear.
Rota Grid in Hyper Black 16x7 +40.
Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 205/50/16.
Gorilla Lugs.
Eibach Pro-kit.
Currently have 300 miles on the setup. Going to wait until I have at least 500 miles before going in for my alignment so that the springs will be settled.
Here is some data on spring rates of OEM vs Eibach.
FRONT:
OE rate: 23 N/mm (131 lbs/in)
PRO-KIT progressive rate: 21 - 28 N/mm (120 - 160 lbs/in)
Bump-stop: OE Trimmed
Damper: OE
Tubing: N/A
OE wheel center to fender: 792 mm (31.2 in)
PRO-KIT wheel center to fender: 762 mm (30.0 in)
PRO-KIT can be aligned to OE Specs: Yes
REAR:
OE rate: 26 N/mm (148 lbs/in)
PRO-KIT progressive rate: 15 - 32 N/mm (86 - 183 lbs/in)
Damper: OE
Bump-stop: Eibach bump-stop
Tubing: Yes
OE wheel center to fender: 797.5 mm (31.4 in)
PRO-KIT wheel center to fender: 761.5 mm (30.0 in)
PRO-KIT can be aligned to OE specs: Yes
Impressions:
I put these springs on my OEM shocks that have 5k miles on them. The rebound and dampening is pretty mediocre. The ride would really benefit from shocks rated for lower/stiffer springs. The ride quality is not bad but the combination of springs + OEM shock feels like a mess. With that being said, Any lowering spring is going to have the same issue. The overall drop is fairly mild and I have no clearance issues with speedbumps or driveways. It would be very easy to daily this setup with a little bit of caution. Its not obnoxious to drive, but is a large decrease in comfort from OEM. As far as performance goes, the car corners MUCH flatter but is unsettled by hard bumps due to the mismatch with OEM shocks and aftermarket springs. This setup will allow the sidewall to rub the plastic inner fender liner on moderate impacts. The rubbing is non visual and did not damage my fenders. Rubbing will only occur when the suspension is rapidly compressed via bump/dip.
Rota Grid in Hyper Black 16x7 +40.
Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 205/50/16.
Gorilla Lugs.
Eibach Pro-kit.
Currently have 300 miles on the setup. Going to wait until I have at least 500 miles before going in for my alignment so that the springs will be settled.
Impressions on overall setup: My springs have no completely settled but here are my current impressions of my wheels/tires/springs. With OEM springs these wheels/tires appeared to be slight positive camber in the front and aprox -1.5 in rear. Upon lowering they appear to be -0.5 in front and the rear remains the same . His is the data on spring rates of OEM and Eibach.
FRONT:
OE rate: 23 N/mm (131 lbs/in)
PRO-KIT progressive rate: 21 - 28 N/mm (120 - 160 lbs/in)
Bump-stop: OE Trimmed
Damper: OE
Tubing: N/A
OE wheel center to fender: 792 mm (31.2 in)
PRO-KIT wheel center to fender: 762 mm (30.0 in)
PRO-KIT can be aligned to OE Specs: Yes
REAR:
OE rate: 26 N/mm (148 lbs/in)
PRO-KIT progressive rate: 15 - 32 N/mm (86 - 183 lbs/in)
Damper: OE
Bump-stop: Eibach bump-stop
Tubing: Yes
OE wheel center to fender: 797.5 mm (31.4 in)
PRO-KIT wheel center to fender: 761.5 mm (30.0 in)
PRO-KIT can be aligned to OE specs: Yes
I put these springs on my OEM shocks that have 5k miles on them. The rebound and dampening is quite lacking. The ride would really benefit from shocks rated for lower/stiffer springs. The ride quality is not bad but the combination of springs + OEM shock feels like a mess. With that being said, Any lowering spring is going to have the same issue. I have always used Eibach products on my cars and I am biased to purchasing their products when available. The overall drop is fairly mild and I have no issues with speedbumps or steep driveways. It would be very easy to daily this setup. Its not obnoxious to drive, but is a large decrease in comfort from OEM.
As far as performance goes, the car corners MUCH flatter, even with my OEM sway bar and no rear bar. Body roll is still present but is significantly reduced.
Overall it is at your discretion on wether or not ride comfort is worth the reduced body roll and wheel/fender gap.
OEM SPRINGS + new wheels and tires: this setup will allow the sidewall to rub the plastic inner fender liner on very hard impacts. Medium to moderate impacts will not rub. The rubbing that occured is non visual and did not distort the appearance of the fenders, it simply contacted the plastic clips on the inside of the fender.
EIBACH SPRINGS + new wheels and tires: this setup will allow the sidewall to rub the plastic inner fender liner on moderate impacts. The rubbing is also non visual. This setup will NOT rub no matter how hard you corner, rubbing will only occur when the suspension is rapidly compressed via bump/dip. In my experience potholes are not enough to cause rubbing. The only rubbing occurs on severe dips in pavement.
I assumed there would be some rubbing so I purchased camber bolts when I ordered by wheels.
Once I pass the 500 mile mark I will be installing the bolts and taking the car for alignment. Since the rubbing is so slight im guessing additional -0.5 camber in the front will allow the sidewall to clear on impacts. Ill update you guys when I find out.
Took off the front plate when I got home and ordered some color matched bumper plugs. Decided to go for a drive the same day as I have alot of empty mountain roads in my area.
that looks like GMR sir.. my old stomping grounds when I attended Cal Poly Pomona (2003-2006).
Many battles and drives thru that awesome road! Miss it so badly!
that looks like GMR sir.. my old stomping grounds when I attended Cal Poly Pomona (2003-2006).
Many battles and drives thru that awesome road! Miss it so badly!
Also, I agree with you regarding the struts and shocks on the GK5. They're a bit on the soft side but not bad with stock springs... that's about it though. Haha
Now that I think about it, I'm curious if the HPD CR-Z suspension would be compatible with the GK5... or better yet, if Honda will be producting HFP/HPD accessory suspension for the Fit for the 2018 models.
Also, I agree with you regarding the struts and shocks on the GK5. They're a bit on the soft side but not bad with stock springs... that's about it though. Haha
Now that I think about it, I'm curious if the HPD CR-Z suspension would be compatible with the GK5... or better yet, if Honda will be producting HFP/HPD accessory suspension for the Fit for the 2018 models.
Im hoping the 2018 Sport will reignite some interest in companies making performance parts for the GK. Some HPD options would be cool too.
Most people running this setup have commented that it rubs on the front when you hit big dips. I had the same results. I have driven the car daily since my last post and put about 5k miles on this setup. The area that is rubbing during the dips is the plastic inner fender liner. More specifically where one of the front metal tabs of the fender connects to the plastic liner.
After 5k miles of rubbing this was the only spot I could identify so I decided to trim the fender liners. After taking off the wheel you can see the fender liner is held in with at least 10 plastic push rivets. I removed the two rivets at the highest parts of the fender arches and trimmed off 1 inch of the plastic above the rivets contact area and the entire length of the arch. This can be done very easily with an xacto knife.
After trimming the liner I used a heat gun and some pliers to bend back the two metal tabs that were exposed after trimming the liner. These are the same tabs that I removed the rivets from. You can do this by heating the metal on the edge of the arches and the tabs themselves. After they are warm/hot to touch you wrap your pliers with a thick towel and gently massage the tabs until they are flush with the small 1/4 lip that spans the entire fender. The tabs do not need to be flat to your fenders they simply need to be bent in enough so that they do no extend the small 1/4 inch lip.
Impressions:
The rubbing is gone completely. I test drove over controlled areas that I previously rubbed 100% of the time. I was unable to get it to rub at all under the most extreme compression of the suspension. I will update again in several months if there are any changes or ASAP if I do experience any rub, but for the time being I believe that it has solved the rubbing for my exact setup.
Most people running this setup have commented that it rubs on the front when you hit big dips. I had the same results. I have driven the car daily since my last post and put about 5k miles on this setup. The area that is rubbing during the dips is the plastic inner fender liner. More specifically where one of the front metal tabs of the fender connects to the plastic liner.
After 5k miles of rubbing this was the only spot I could identify so I decided to trim the fender liners. After taking off the wheel you can see the fender liner is held in with atleast 10 plastic push rivets. I removed the two rivets at the highest parts of the fender arches and trimmed off 1 inch of the plastic above the rivets contact area and the entire length of the arch. This can be done very easily with an xacto knife.
After trimming the liner I used a heat gun and some pliers to gently bend back the two metal tabs that were exposed after trimming the liner. These are the same tabs that we removed the rivets from. You can do this by heating the metal on the edge of the arches and the tabs themselves. After they are warm/hot to touch you wrap your pliers with a thick towel and gently massage the tabs until they are flush with the small 1/4 lip that spans the entire fender. The tabs do not need to be flat to your fenders they simply need to be bent in enough so that they do no extend the small 1/4 inch lip.
Anyone who is going to attempt to bend their tabs needs to BE WARNED. It is very easy to crack paint when doing any sort of fender rolling or tab bending. In my trials I had zero paint damage or cracking but your experiences may vary from mine. I have no previous experience with fender modification so I took my sweet time doing this and had good results. If in doubt, take your car to a professional fender roller to have your tabs rolled/liner trimmed.
IMPRESSIONS: The rubbing is gone completely. I test drove over controlled areas that I previously rubbed 100% of the time. I was unable to get it to rub at all under the most extreme compression of the suspension. I will update again in several months if there are any changes or ASAP if I do experience any rub, but for the time being I believe that it has solved the rubbing for my exact setup.
I removed the two rivets at the highest parts of the fender arches and trimmed off 1 inch of the plastic above the rivets contact area and the entire length of the arch. This can be done very easily with an xacto knife.
After trimming the liner I used a heat gun and some pliers to gently bend back the two metal tabs that were exposed after trimming the liner. These are the same tabs that we removed the rivets from. You can do this by heating the metal on the edge of the arches and the tabs themselves. After they are warm/hot to touch you wrap your pliers with a thick towel and gently massage the tabs until they are flush with the small 1/4 lip that spans the entire fender. The tabs do not need to be flat to your fenders they simply need to be bent in enough so that they do no extend the small 1/4 inch lip.
Anyone who is going to attempt to bend their tabs needs to BE WARNED. It is very easy to crack paint when doing any sort of fender rolling or tab bending. In my trials I had zero paint damage or cracking but your experiences may vary from mine. I have no previous experience with fender modification so I took my sweet time doing this and had good results. If in doubt, take your car to a professional fender roller to have your tabs rolled/liner trimmed.
I forgot to mention that I never ended up using camber bolts. I decided that It would be better for me to keep an OEM alignment for daily purposes. It is entirely possible that you might be able to run my wheel/tire setup with some excessive negative camber and clear the fenders without cutting/bending anything.
Anyway, I decided to pickup one of my favorite wheels, a bit overused but RPF1s just look real nice on everything. Went with a sizing pretty much identical to the Rota wheels.
Enkei RPF1 16x7 +43
OEM Honda Center Caps #(44732-S9A-A00)
Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 205/50/16
Gorilla Lugs.
Impressions:
That looks preeeeeeeetty good.
I saw quite a few other GK5 users rocking RPF1s but they were all either on 15 inch wheels or a tire size I didnt like. Since my Rota and Enkei wheels are pretty much identical specs I knew I would like the fitment of the RPF1s.
With that being said. The Rotas have a flat face which is a very desirable attribute for a wheel so easy to fit under the GK5's fenders. This flat face looks great from ALL angles. The RPF1s in these specs do not have a flat face, their face is convex, which is typically the opposite of what makes a nice looking wheel. These wheels look great when gazing head on, and look alright when viewed from the side due to the convexity. The face does not protrude past the lip or anything crazy like that, so they arent THAT convex, but a flat face high offset RPF1 sure does look better. Even if you look at a 16x7 +35 RPF1 the face is the same as the +43, so to get a flat face you would have to go with some pretty extreme offsets or a wider wheel or both.
Hopefully this gives you guys an idea of what you want for your setup. Do research on the wheels you like, check if they have varying faces. Make sure the size your ordering is the face you want. If you cant find photos of faces on the manufacturers website try googling your exact wheel size to see if anybody has uploaded photos. I spent hours on Instagram going through #GK5 photos and talking to guys in Malaysia, China and Japan (who usually speak english) to get wheel and tire specs to find what I like.
Shoutouts to @eric879 and others for their help, If you guys use Instagram check his profile out. Check me out @s2kookies and let me know your from fitfreaks, I would love to follow some of you guys and see your builds.
06-14-2017, 03:32 PM
