Evilchargerfan's GK5 - Ballin On A Budget, Minus The Ballin Part (poor mans build!)
#361
indeed. I will admit this other dd is much more fun .... until I had to put gas in it, lol
with the whole trump tariff on china thing, I believe even the replica kits have sky rocketed up in pricing =\
Did you have the splash guard installed? Just curious if it made any difference in protecting the radiator?
Also, the ebay lip seemed to hold up ok. What's your opinion on it? eBay refunded me from the scammer, so I'm deciding if it's worth looking for the same lip again.
Also, the ebay lip seemed to hold up ok. What's your opinion on it? eBay refunded me from the scammer, so I'm deciding if it's worth looking for the same lip again.
#364
if you have a link to those MC's, share please. I'm all for better pedal feel and improved braking.
if I could do it all over again ..... I'd go with the ITR kit with 11 inch rotors, and I believe the caliper on those are larger than these wilwoods.
2007-2014 Honda Fit 11" big brake kit
D'Art .... you gonna do rear disc brakes? Its got your name written all over it!
Fastbrakes Honda Fit rear drum to 11" disc conversion big brake kit
if I could do it all over again ..... I'd go with the ITR kit with 11 inch rotors, and I believe the caliper on those are larger than these wilwoods.
2007-2014 Honda Fit 11" big brake kit
D'Art .... you gonna do rear disc brakes? Its got your name written all over it!
Fastbrakes Honda Fit rear drum to 11" disc conversion big brake kit
#365
Very nice Subaru, but what a bummer man...haven't been back in a while, come here to see the updates (some very nice ones might I add, sick brake kit!)...was not expecting this. Really glad you're ok buddy!!
#366
I'm 99% sure it does
you wanna take 1 for the team, and email them and ask? lol
also, if it does work ..... I for one (for the sake of looks) would go as far, as buying Wilwood Red Rear Calipers made for an ITR and complete the look. my biggest concern is, what brake lines I would need, and what brackets (if needed) to get
thanks for the kind words!
the poor little subaru has seen better days and shes neglected (cant remember the last time its had a proper wash)
recently went to a 10 yr annivesary car meet with my old car club, and took that chance to sell the cf skirts and cf rear diffuser to someone who drove down from nor cal. I figured, I'd rather give it a good home, than me destroying expensive/rare jdm parts on my daily commute
hopefully, the little fit will be back in our lives soon .... the mpg on a wrx is killing the bank account!
you wanna take 1 for the team, and email them and ask? lol
also, if it does work ..... I for one (for the sake of looks) would go as far, as buying Wilwood Red Rear Calipers made for an ITR and complete the look. my biggest concern is, what brake lines I would need, and what brackets (if needed) to get
the poor little subaru has seen better days and shes neglected (cant remember the last time its had a proper wash)
recently went to a 10 yr annivesary car meet with my old car club, and took that chance to sell the cf skirts and cf rear diffuser to someone who drove down from nor cal. I figured, I'd rather give it a good home, than me destroying expensive/rare jdm parts on my daily commute
hopefully, the little fit will be back in our lives soon .... the mpg on a wrx is killing the bank account!
#367
Evil, I may have figured out the issue with the rear tein street z and flex z bottoming out. I set the HAS adjustable shim as far out as I could and then adjusted the shocks as far out as I felt safe. The rear damper is set as stiff as it will go. The rear shock height adjustment has 3 5/8 inch of thread showing on the shock from the start of the thread at the top to the bottom of the lock ring where it makes contact with the bottom mount of the shock. I will provide pictures if needed. So far I do not have anymore issues with it bottoming out and ride height is at 12 3/4 inches in the rear from the center cap to the fender.
#368
Evil, I may have figured out the issue with the rear tein street z and flex z bottoming out. I set the HAS adjustable shim as far out as I could and then adjusted the shocks as far out as I felt safe. The rear damper is set as stiff as it will go. The rear shock height adjustment has 3 5/8 inch of thread showing on the shock from the start of the thread at the top to the bottom of the lock ring where it makes contact with the bottom mount of the shock. I will provide pictures if needed. So far I do not have anymore issues with it bottoming out and ride height is at 12 3/4 inches in the rear from the center cap to the fender.
#370
that looks really good, i'm jealous you got the flex z's, I wish I paid a little more for those
does doing these new adjustment affect the ride quality of how the teins perform out of the box / per tein recommendations?
bjosuesr , would you mind enlightening the rest, and share with them some of the things we discussed over pm. someone may find this info useful, and also, a recap would be nice as I may follow in your foot steps and adjust what is necessary in the rears as you did, to prevent bottoming out
does doing these new adjustment affect the ride quality of how the teins perform out of the box / per tein recommendations?
bjosuesr , would you mind enlightening the rest, and share with them some of the things we discussed over pm. someone may find this info useful, and also, a recap would be nice as I may follow in your foot steps and adjust what is necessary in the rears as you did, to prevent bottoming out
#371
The ride quality has not suffered at all. I haven’t been on a road with extreme bumps yet. I am sure on extreme bumps it may bottom out due to it being lowered and it being a ge8 suspension which has a softer spring rate than the gk. I would scrap even at stock height on some bumps. I am tempted to purchase the tein s lowering springs for the gk and just replace the rear springs with the height adjuster on them with the tein s rear spring to see if I get any extra height. I talked to Tein USA and they told me that they will be doing testing on a GK coilover kit but they cannot give me a specific date as to when they will be doing so. They also said that the jdm gk rear shocks would not fit the usdm model as the jdm one are beefier. I wonder if bmw alpina May have any insight into this as I read he put a jdm gk rear axle in his which has rear disc. I hope this helps I’ll post under my Tein thread as well.
#375
After driving around a wrx for 2 months as our dd, having the gk5 back in my life is bitter sweet. I miss the power of the wrx, but I most definitely do not miss 25 mpg. One fun thing I noticed, in a wrx other drivers seem to get out of my way, as they see or hear me coming ... and rarely do people do crazy maneuvers in an effort to over take on the highway. In the gk5, people try everything in their power to avoid/pass me up like the plague and more than likely assume a grandma is behind the wheel. * chuckle *
SO, I recently installed a new steering wheel. Same one Kitkat201 and bjosuesr have:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-...ml#post1424742
After the install, after 30 mins/30 miles (ish) of driving ... 3 lights lit up on my gauge cluster.
-TPMS (first, blinking, then after a few mins, turned solid)
-Vehicle Stability Assist
-Electric Power Steering
At this point, I am thinking 1 of 5 outcomes:
-Maybe I did not re tighten my negative on the battery, hard enough?
-Maybe I did something wrong while re installing the wheel? (check list = I did re connect 2 harness on air bag, 1 horn harness, 1 grounding wire, harness for cruise control, harness for vol control, and 1 big harness at the very top which I presume is a 2nd horn connector)
-Maybe the 5 yr old oem battery itself is ready to die?
-Maybe the shop that did my bumper/radiator/ac condenser screwed something up back there, and I am getting these 3 lights as a result?
-Maybe something unrelated went wrong, and the wheel/battery has nothing to do with it?
Any input would be nice, I could use some help brain storming!
SO, I recently installed a new steering wheel. Same one Kitkat201 and bjosuesr have:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-...ml#post1424742
After the install, after 30 mins/30 miles (ish) of driving ... 3 lights lit up on my gauge cluster.
-TPMS (first, blinking, then after a few mins, turned solid)
-Vehicle Stability Assist
-Electric Power Steering
At this point, I am thinking 1 of 5 outcomes:
-Maybe I did not re tighten my negative on the battery, hard enough?
-Maybe I did something wrong while re installing the wheel? (check list = I did re connect 2 harness on air bag, 1 horn harness, 1 grounding wire, harness for cruise control, harness for vol control, and 1 big harness at the very top which I presume is a 2nd horn connector)
-Maybe the 5 yr old oem battery itself is ready to die?
-Maybe the shop that did my bumper/radiator/ac condenser screwed something up back there, and I am getting these 3 lights as a result?
-Maybe something unrelated went wrong, and the wheel/battery has nothing to do with it?
Any input would be nice, I could use some help brain storming!
#377
After driving around a wrx for 2 months as our dd, having the gk5 back in my life is bitter sweet. I miss the power of the wrx, but I most definitely do not miss 25 mpg. One fun thing I noticed, in a wrx other drivers seem to get out of my way, as they see or hear me coming ... and rarely do people do crazy maneuvers in an effort to over take on the highway. In the gk5, people try everything in their power to avoid/pass me up like the plague and more than likely assume a grandma is behind the wheel. * chuckle *
SO, I recently installed a new steering wheel. Same one Kitkat201 and bjosuesr have:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-...ml#post1424742
After the install, after 30 mins/30 miles (ish) of driving ... 3 lights lit up on my gauge cluster.
-TPMS (first, blinking, then after a few mins, turned solid)
-Vehicle Stability Assist
-Electric Power Steering
At this point, I am thinking 1 of 5 outcomes:
-Maybe I did not re tighten my negative on the battery, hard enough?
-Maybe I did something wrong while re installing the wheel? (check list = I did re connect 2 harness on air bag, 1 horn harness, 1 grounding wire, harness for cruise control, harness for vol control, and 1 big harness at the very top which I presume is a 2nd horn connector)
-Maybe the 5 yr old oem battery itself is ready to die?
-Maybe the shop that did my bumper/radiator/ac condenser screwed something up back there, and I am getting these 3 lights as a result?
-Maybe something unrelated went wrong, and the wheel/battery has nothing to do with it?
Any input would be nice, I could use some help brain storming!
SO, I recently installed a new steering wheel. Same one Kitkat201 and bjosuesr have:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-...ml#post1424742
After the install, after 30 mins/30 miles (ish) of driving ... 3 lights lit up on my gauge cluster.
-TPMS (first, blinking, then after a few mins, turned solid)
-Vehicle Stability Assist
-Electric Power Steering
At this point, I am thinking 1 of 5 outcomes:
-Maybe I did not re tighten my negative on the battery, hard enough?
-Maybe I did something wrong while re installing the wheel? (check list = I did re connect 2 harness on air bag, 1 horn harness, 1 grounding wire, harness for cruise control, harness for vol control, and 1 big harness at the very top which I presume is a 2nd horn connector)
-Maybe the 5 yr old oem battery itself is ready to die?
-Maybe the shop that did my bumper/radiator/ac condenser screwed something up back there, and I am getting these 3 lights as a result?
-Maybe something unrelated went wrong, and the wheel/battery has nothing to do with it?
Any input would be nice, I could use some help brain storming!
#378
a reg scanner does not detect any cel. interesting.... looks like ill have to dig through my moving boxes and locate my more advanced scanner
does the fuel inj short, involve a blinking TPMS light on start up?
Update:
I disconnected battery, and discharged via brake lights.... waited a few mins... reconnected battery. upon start up ... TPMS lights blink, vsa lights on, and a few mins later the power steering icon comes on
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l9I9...ature=youtu.be
does the fuel inj short, involve a blinking TPMS light on start up?
Update:
I disconnected battery, and discharged via brake lights.... waited a few mins... reconnected battery. upon start up ... TPMS lights blink, vsa lights on, and a few mins later the power steering icon comes on
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l9I9...ature=youtu.be
#379
Evil, I got a bunch of these that day I overtightened my intake mani. You know the saga, but I cleaned it up, and got her back together and torqued appropriately, and all the lights turned off. Long way to say, could there be a vacuum leak caused by the accident repair crew somewhere? All it takes is a hose left off/knocked off.
Cheers!
d
Cheers!
d
#380
SO, used my "Blue Driver" advanced scan tool... and it did detect 2 codes:
-C0051 - Steering Wheel Position Sensor
-U0101 - Lost Communication With TCM
Googled a bit about the C0051 and this article does mention, "loose steering wheel feel" may mean I have to replace that sensor. I sure hope they are wrong, it doesnt look like fun:
https://www.yourmechanic.com/article...vin-sunderland
For those interested in a blue driver scanner:
-C0051 - Steering Wheel Position Sensor
-U0101 - Lost Communication With TCM
Googled a bit about the C0051 and this article does mention, "loose steering wheel feel" may mean I have to replace that sensor. I sure hope they are wrong, it doesnt look like fun:
https://www.yourmechanic.com/article...vin-sunderland
For those interested in a blue driver scanner: