SPC #81260 work great

 

Thanks for the info. I was trying to find out what Camber Bolts people were using and this is the only thing I was able to find. I just put in my order for mine and will drop back in when they arrive to confirm my fitment aswell. Thanks JHN.

Bump for others looking.

 

If I am just getting a H&R + Koni Orange setup to lower the car, are camber bolts necessary for the alignment afterwards? Or can the car be lowered without the camber bolts?
thanks!

 

Considering most of the people here who post about lowering don't seem to use them, you will probably be fine. There are two general reasons I see to use camber bolts. First, if you track your car and need negative camber to give extra grip in turns, or second, if you have either wider tires or a different offset and want to pull the upper edge in to keep them from rubbing on the fenders.

 

you can run without camber bolts. actually there's really no adjustment on the Fits besides front toe.

but from a performance perspective, when i lowered my GD and especially the GE, i ran -2 degrees on the front which added a lot more bite during turns vs stock. the open diff really kills the exit of the turn so you want max tread contact while turning.

 

Does lowering the fit add positive camber that needs to be corrected with the camber bolt? I have a highway car (stock 2015 LX) so i'm ok with very slight (close to 0) camber but i dont want it to be 0 or positive after lowering. The front and rear suspension geometry is radically different, how do they differ when lowering? Thanks.

 

I went with 0 toe and -1.5 degrees up front when I lowered my car on Swifts. I love the extra bite and turn in response.

 

The rear is a trailing arm setup, and camber is not affected by lowering. The front is a MacPherson strut, and if anything might see a slight negative camber when lowered, but very slight. When I lowered my car, I also added wider tires (205/50/16) on aftermarket wheels, and without the camber bolts it causes rubbing on the fender liners. If you go with narrower tires or a different offset, you may not need them.

 

I thought I'd add that I just switched to my winter wheels yesterday and did not see any extra wear on the inside of the front tires from the more aggressive alignment.

 

sweet, i happen to have a set laying around! (looks like wrx camber bolts are the same exact pn)

 

Installed these on mine recently after lowering with Koni Orange/Eibach Pro Kit, and what a difference -2 degrees makes in the corners!

 

did you install yours on the lower, or the top hole?

 

Installed according to SPC's instructions, top hole. Loosen the bottom bolt a touch to pivot the knuckle to the desired setting and tighten them both down.

 

did you use the tab that came in the packaging? or just the bolt itself and nut?

 

I used it all, the tab doesn't come off, it's attached to the toothed washer that helps keep the camber setting by gripping the strut with it's little teeth.

I'll try and get a couple pics for you as soon as I can.

 

the top hole (for koni orange anyway) was perfectly round, and did not leave any room for the tab:


I ended up removing the tab, and installed just the bolt up top. Next go around, I'm gonna try the lower hole since its elongated and does have room to fit both the camber bolt + tab

 

update:

moved the bolt to the lower elongated hole. was not only able to fit the washer in there, but also gained more camber adjustability. go figure

 

older thread but maybe it'll help someone. when you install the camber bolts they go in the top hole. the tab on the washer lines up with the backside of the lobe on the bolt. so if lobe is at 12 o'clock the tab is at 6 o'clock.

 

can you show us some pictures, of how this is done?

 

noticed you were installing them on Koni Oranges, this might be why they didn't go correctly in the top hole. Stock struts allow you to use the top one.