Going to change again as a preventative measure and rule out as the cause of my "falling rpms and no power when getting back on gas" issue. Since it's so easy.

2012 fit needs df-1 right? Any recommendations where to buy and how much? Google search is not doing a good job, serving up tons of stuff that is emphatically NOT df-1.

Also, anyone have recommendations on a replacement drain plug or washer?

 

Thinking this one looks good, although recently ppl comment they have problems w quality

 

For a simple ATF drain and refill, you'll need about 2.6 qts of ATF DW-1 or an equivalent ATF.

Drain plug washer part number is 90471-PX4-000 by the way.

A quick search on Amazon showed quite a few packs of washers for cheap... If you have a Honda dealer nearby, check with them. Some (like mine) will toss you the drain plug washer for free or pretty cheap with fluid replacements.

 

"falling rpms and no power when getting back on gas" sound more like engine, not transmission problem
bogging down at acceleration is more of ignition issue

 

Thank you for suggestion dr j! Car has plenty of pep above 2400 rpm ... which I can’t figure out how to reconcile with a cause. Yet. Below that, getting back on the gas causes a temporary lift then rpms drop below the coasting rpm and little happens until you put enough boot in it the car downshifts. It’s puzzling me (obviously). The transmission fluid change will cross out certain problems but I suspect not be the cure.

 

Car has plenty of pep above 2400 rpm that's when vtec kicks in
While its difficult to diagnose this issue over the internet, and assuming your ignition coils are in acceptable shape (and not cheap imitation of hitachi or Denso coils) my primary suspects will be an EGR system (uneven flow among the cylinders, OBD II would not set code for that) or, more exotic, a piston slap at part throttle acceleration causes knock (detonation) sensor to act funny and to retard the ignition timing (at least it does it on my car, according to the scanner)

 

Are you being serious vtec has one of the change points so low for this engine? That would point to my leading candidate, valve adjustment issue.

All good suggestions. I do see timing is being pulled, but it only seems to happen under load like when transitioning back to accelerating at low rpm. More mystifying is that rpms will actually rise briefly, then bog down. None of this happens under a no load condition (like in park etc).

I've cleaned EGR once but it remains in my mind since it would fit the symptoms.

Yes it is hard to diagnose remotely. Don't worry. Still appreciate it. It is hard to diagnose HERE!! 😊

 

When mentioning EGR I referred to the passages in the intake runners covered by the long plate (where the PCV hose attaches to)

 

Ok noob question.. So I got all the stuff for the at fluid change. Including better magnetic plug. Are you supposed to drain fluid when the engine is cold, hot but let settle.for fifteen (my assumption), or hot and just turned off?

 

Warm is best. Definitely not hot, unless you are wearing PPE.

 

All set. Was pretty easy. Had to run out for a breaker bar since the max on the torque wrench wasn't enough to break loose the drain. Oddly the manual calls for only 36lb ft which doesn't seem that tight but I suppose it will suffice.

Upgraded to a new drain plug and the magnet on the new is much better. Old one had some fine sediment on it, did not appear concerning

 

Hi, BUMB,
did you fix the power problem after the ATF change, or is it better?
I plan to do a change and refill because the previous owner put 3.5 Qts, instead of 2.6 as per the service notes, (has the same power lurch at 2nd and 3rd gear and I think it's because of over-pressurized fluid)

 

Not sure of the Gen we're talking about here, but do check the fluid level per the owner's manual. Fluid temperature matters. Start the engine and let it idle until you hear the cooling fan start. This might take 10+ minutes, so be patient. When the fan starts, shut off the engine and quickly pull the dipstick, wipe it, insert it, pull it and read the level.

Remember too that there's a fluid filter hiding under the airbox as I recall. It's not necessary to change it each time. If you change it, my Gen 2 then needs about 3.5 QT for a simple drain and fill.

 

Ah, the good old days when the Fit transmission had a dipstick! The days before some bean counter pointed to it and said to an engineer those fateful words "What's this?"

 

Ah yes, well said. Heck, some manufacturers have even removed the fill hole in manual transmission cases for the reason you describe. A simple process then becomes an uncertain and time-consuming mess.

 

2nd gen: Unknown service history. About 2.8L came out, and 2.8L new went back in--after running the engine until fan on once, per the shop manual. Level was 33% from low.

 

Yea, the more I read about our Gen2 Fits/Jazzes, the ATF required for a smooth driving experience is more than the mentioned capacity in the SM (2.5L),
for the update; I drained and refilled exactly 3 liters of Kixx Multi-Vehicle ATF and the reading was at the top of the last hexed line (wait for the fans to kick in twice> 90 seconds> on a flat parking lot), and the slight lurch is still present when you're babying the car but the shifts are somehow smoother upper gears (I think it's its character with every AT GE8), will try to do it with OEM DW-1 when I have extra money for 20$ a Litre where I live to see if it helps,