ABS and traction lights, but no CEL codes
Hi all,
A puzzling situation with our 2011 Fit Sport: ABS and traction (skid) lights keep coming on, but no CEL codes show up when scanning. Next steps for diagnosis?
A puzzling situation with our 2011 Fit Sport: ABS and traction (skid) lights keep coming on, but no CEL codes show up when scanning. Next steps for diagnosis?
You aren't gonna set the money light with an ABS/VSA issue. To get an exact answer you need a Honda scan tool.. The car will store fault codes that only the OEM reader (or a very good third party scanner like an Autel) can retrieve.
Most common thing I see pop up is implausible data coming from a wheel speed sensor on one or more corners of the car. Usually from the tone wheel rusting away and flying off the backside of the bearing. You would need a scanner to see which wheel it was. You should use live data with the car in the air, brakes off and spin each individual wheel to see which one(s) read bad data.
Most common thing I see pop up is implausible data coming from a wheel speed sensor on one or more corners of the car. Usually from the tone wheel rusting away and flying off the backside of the bearing. You would need a scanner to see which wheel it was. You should use live data with the car in the air, brakes off and spin each individual wheel to see which one(s) read bad data.
Not quite the same thing, but a VSA calibration might work. (I don't think it would hurt to try). Here is a post I made about 2 years ago when I had an issue.
================================================== =====================================
Thought I'd add to the original thread. I had CEL and VSA lights on simultaneously. I ran my BlueDriver scanner and it showed a P0303 code. Checked the plugs and #3 was very loose and the coil was sooted. I replaced the coil and tightened the spark plugs. After driving a while, the lights went out. The p0303 code was a permanent code, so I could not clear it with the BlueDriver. But, I was watching the $06 mode data and could see the misfires were 0 and the last 10 weighted average misfires were dropping. After driving a while, the permanent p0303 code was removed, but a normal p0303 code was still present. I could see this on the Smog test (since I needed an emission test soon.
I ran an ALL Systems code check and the p0303 and an 83-11 code were showing up (this was probably why the VSA light originally came on, but I knew this was a false light since it came on when the CEL came on--and the misfire was causing that but that was fixed). When I tried clearing the 83-11 code, a message on my BlueDriver stated:
"Some Honda/Acura vehicles may require VSA calibration after clearing codes. This involves connecting two pins on the OBDII port - steps can be obtained by contacting BlueDriver Support"
So I contacted BlueDriver support and they got back to me in a few minutes with the following:
To perform a VSA neutral point calibration:
1.Park the vehicle on a flat level surface.
2. With the ignition switch off, ground the Brown wire in terminal #9 of the OBD-II connector.
3. Turn the ignition switch on and do not depress the brake pedal.
4. The ABS indicator turns on and then goes out after 2 seconds.
5. After the ABS indicator goes out, the press and release the VSA off button once within 0.5 seconds.
6. After the ABS indicator turns on again, the press and release the VSA off switch once within 0.5 seconds.
7. The VSA activation indicator should sound blink 2 times and go off in one second, then the system completes the neutral position memorization. If the lights do not go out, repeat the procedure again.
Important Note: When they mention the ground in step #2 this is either pin 4 or 5 (both are ground points) in the attached diagram – note you want to be careful not to get these pins backwards as #16 is on the opposite side of the connector from #9 and is the power line - if the power and ground are connected you may blow a fuse.

Performed these steps, and everything returned to normal, and the emission test passes now.
Thought this might help others.
================================================== =====================================
Thought I'd add to the original thread. I had CEL and VSA lights on simultaneously. I ran my BlueDriver scanner and it showed a P0303 code. Checked the plugs and #3 was very loose and the coil was sooted. I replaced the coil and tightened the spark plugs. After driving a while, the lights went out. The p0303 code was a permanent code, so I could not clear it with the BlueDriver. But, I was watching the $06 mode data and could see the misfires were 0 and the last 10 weighted average misfires were dropping. After driving a while, the permanent p0303 code was removed, but a normal p0303 code was still present. I could see this on the Smog test (since I needed an emission test soon.
I ran an ALL Systems code check and the p0303 and an 83-11 code were showing up (this was probably why the VSA light originally came on, but I knew this was a false light since it came on when the CEL came on--and the misfire was causing that but that was fixed). When I tried clearing the 83-11 code, a message on my BlueDriver stated:
"Some Honda/Acura vehicles may require VSA calibration after clearing codes. This involves connecting two pins on the OBDII port - steps can be obtained by contacting BlueDriver Support"
So I contacted BlueDriver support and they got back to me in a few minutes with the following:
To perform a VSA neutral point calibration:
1.Park the vehicle on a flat level surface.
2. With the ignition switch off, ground the Brown wire in terminal #9 of the OBD-II connector.
3. Turn the ignition switch on and do not depress the brake pedal.
4. The ABS indicator turns on and then goes out after 2 seconds.
5. After the ABS indicator goes out, the press and release the VSA off button once within 0.5 seconds.
6. After the ABS indicator turns on again, the press and release the VSA off switch once within 0.5 seconds.
7. The VSA activation indicator should sound blink 2 times and go off in one second, then the system completes the neutral position memorization. If the lights do not go out, repeat the procedure again.
Important Note: When they mention the ground in step #2 this is either pin 4 or 5 (both are ground points) in the attached diagram – note you want to be careful not to get these pins backwards as #16 is on the opposite side of the connector from #9 and is the power line - if the power and ground are connected you may blow a fuse.
Performed these steps, and everything returned to normal, and the emission test passes now.
Thought this might help others.
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Classyfit9820
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