How do u turn the abs and tcs lights off on dash
#1
How do u turn the abs and tcs lights off on dash
I recently had a buddy install some H&R lowering spring on my 13' fit. Now my abs light and traction control light are on. Brakes work the same, how do I get rid of these lights???
Last edited by Classyfit9820; 10-20-2013 at 09:01 PM.
#3
Honda ABS codes can sometimes be read by connecting a wire under the dash to a service connector or connecting 2 terminals together in the diagnostic link connector. You then turn the key on and count the ABS light flashes. Then lookup the code and start investigating what the code points you too. IIRC, you can clear the codes by pressing the brake pedal when you turn the key on.
I have done it a handful of times through the years but dont take the time to use that feature since I have access to a scanner at the shop.
I have to agree with wanderer that you may have a disconnected wire.
You didnt mention tire swaps. Did you make any tire changes after geting it lowered? Do you have equal size tires on the front and rear? I don't only mean equal by what the sidewall says. ABS lights can get tripped if your actual tire diameter (measure actual diameter of all 4 tires and compare) varies. Some vehicles will have ABS and TCS (Traction Contol System) problems if they vary by 2/32" or more from any single tire to any other tires.
I have done it a handful of times through the years but dont take the time to use that feature since I have access to a scanner at the shop.
I have to agree with wanderer that you may have a disconnected wire.
You didnt mention tire swaps. Did you make any tire changes after geting it lowered? Do you have equal size tires on the front and rear? I don't only mean equal by what the sidewall says. ABS lights can get tripped if your actual tire diameter (measure actual diameter of all 4 tires and compare) varies. Some vehicles will have ABS and TCS (Traction Contol System) problems if they vary by 2/32" or more from any single tire to any other tires.
#5
Your Buddy likely did not disconnect the rear ABS before dropping the old spring and broke the wire. That happened to me. Around $250 for a new one at dealer. My Honda Tech slipped mine through using Wty.
#6
Honda ABS codes can sometimes be read by connecting a wire under the dash to a service connector or connecting 2 terminals together in the diagnostic link connector. You then turn the key on and count the ABS light flashes. Then lookup the code and start investigating what the code points you too. IIRC, you can clear the codes by pressing the brake pedal when you turn the key on.
I have done it a handful of times through the years but dont take the time to use that feature since I have access to a scanner at the shop.
I have to agree with wanderer that you may have a disconnected wire.
You didnt mention tire swaps. Did you make any tire changes after geting it lowered? Do you have equal size tires on the front and rear? I don't only mean equal by what the sidewall says. ABS lights can get tripped if your actual tire diameter (measure actual diameter of all 4 tires and compare) varies. Some vehicles will have ABS and TCS (Traction Contol System) problems if they vary by 2/32" or more from any single tire to any other tires.
I have done it a handful of times through the years but dont take the time to use that feature since I have access to a scanner at the shop.
I have to agree with wanderer that you may have a disconnected wire.
You didnt mention tire swaps. Did you make any tire changes after geting it lowered? Do you have equal size tires on the front and rear? I don't only mean equal by what the sidewall says. ABS lights can get tripped if your actual tire diameter (measure actual diameter of all 4 tires and compare) varies. Some vehicles will have ABS and TCS (Traction Contol System) problems if they vary by 2/32" or more from any single tire to any other tires.
#7
Well I hope this isn't the case but if I can't reslove the light, its going to the dealer for service tomorrow. Hopefully I can also get the Honda tech to "slip me some stuff"
#9
If it ends up being a broken wire like Black3sr described be prepared to get sexually assaulted by the dealership. They will hit you with diagnostic charge plus repairs not covered under warranty.
I highly suggest you check it out first. Even if you DIY after they check it out they will hit you with the diagnostic fee (I think it's ~$100?) If you're not comfy get your friend back over to check it out first.
Black3sr has a nice dealership service department apparently. Do not assume yours will follow suit, walk in, and get blindsided.
I highly suggest you check it out first. Even if you DIY after they check it out they will hit you with the diagnostic fee (I think it's ~$100?) If you're not comfy get your friend back over to check it out first.
Black3sr has a nice dealership service department apparently. Do not assume yours will follow suit, walk in, and get blindsided.
#10
If it ends up being a broken wire like Black3sr described be prepared to get sexually assaulted by the dealership. They will hit you with diagnostic charge plus repairs not covered under warranty.
I highly suggest you check it out first. Even if you DIY after they check it out they will hit you with the diagnostic fee (I think it's ~$100?) If you're not comfy get your friend back over to check it out first.
Black3sr has a nice dealership service department apparently. Do not assume yours will follow suit, walk in, and get blindsided.
I highly suggest you check it out first. Even if you DIY after they check it out they will hit you with the diagnostic fee (I think it's ~$100?) If you're not comfy get your friend back over to check it out first.
Black3sr has a nice dealership service department apparently. Do not assume yours will follow suit, walk in, and get blindsided.
#11
If it ends up being a broken wire like Black3sr described be prepared to get sexually assaulted by the dealership. They will hit you with diagnostic charge plus repairs not covered under warranty.
I highly suggest you check it out first. Even if you DIY after they check it out they will hit you with the diagnostic fee (I think it's ~$100?) If you're not comfy get your friend back over to check it out first.
Black3sr has a nice dealership service department apparently. Do not assume yours will follow suit, walk in, and get blindsided.
I highly suggest you check it out first. Even if you DIY after they check it out they will hit you with the diagnostic fee (I think it's ~$100?) If you're not comfy get your friend back over to check it out first.
Black3sr has a nice dealership service department apparently. Do not assume yours will follow suit, walk in, and get blindsided.
Yep I got hit with that diagnostic fee. Looks like the right front wheel speed sensor isn't making any contact, so they said it was probably stretched in the process of the lowering springs being installed...blah blah blah. Thanks for your help guys, I wasn't gonna give the dealer $320 like they asked for for parts and labor. Looks like my friend will be taking another look at it.
My Tech Service guy is great! Very helpful. I lost my low beams the other day. My fuses are OK and a call to him yesterday suggested I switch some of the relays to see if that would solve the problem. Unfortunatley I do not have a puller for the relays, it is cold etc, so I am taking it in this morning. We will see what I get charged with.
OP that is about right and yes if it was working before then your buddy likely damaged it. Funny there is no warning about that when doing the spring change other than to keep the front bits bungeed not to lose an axle.
The part on the rear was going to be over $100 plus labour and scan etc. I left mine until the next scheduled service and they did it as part of that but charged it to wty.
#13
remove your DRL fuse so you dont burn out those bulbs. I burned out 2 sets of silverstars from walmart (made by osram)
pulled DRL fuse, installed $5 bulbs from ebay. So far has outlasted the silverstars, and brighter by a little bit. (5900K color temp I believe)
Measured teh ebay bulbs drawing 4.1 amps at 14.4 volts, so they are drawign a bit mroe then factory.
But then the factory bulbs are the extended long lasting bulbs to deal with the low voltage of the daytime running lights that often kill aftermarket bulbs quickly
pulled DRL fuse, installed $5 bulbs from ebay. So far has outlasted the silverstars, and brighter by a little bit. (5900K color temp I believe)
Measured teh ebay bulbs drawing 4.1 amps at 14.4 volts, so they are drawign a bit mroe then factory.
But then the factory bulbs are the extended long lasting bulbs to deal with the low voltage of the daytime running lights that often kill aftermarket bulbs quickly
#14
remove your DRL fuse so you dont burn out those bulbs. I burned out 2 sets of silverstars from walmart (made by osram)
pulled DRL fuse, installed $5 bulbs from ebay. So far has outlasted the silverstars, and brighter by a little bit. (5900K color temp I believe)
Measured teh ebay bulbs drawing 4.1 amps at 14.4 volts, so they are drawign a bit mroe then factory.
But then the factory bulbs are the extended long lasting bulbs to deal with the low voltage of the daytime running lights that often kill aftermarket bulbs quickly
pulled DRL fuse, installed $5 bulbs from ebay. So far has outlasted the silverstars, and brighter by a little bit. (5900K color temp I believe)
Measured teh ebay bulbs drawing 4.1 amps at 14.4 volts, so they are drawign a bit mroe then factory.
But then the factory bulbs are the extended long lasting bulbs to deal with the low voltage of the daytime running lights that often kill aftermarket bulbs quickly
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