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Considering that synthetic oils weren't as common now as they were more than a decade ago, is the dashboard oil change % based on synthetic or conventional oil? I forgot to write down mileage when I did the last oil change so I can't figure it out that way.
Honda must have regional specs for oil because my 2010 recommends conventional 5W-20. Says you may use synthetic if it meets the same requirements given for conventional motor oil. Also, in the same synthetic section, it says you must follow the oil and filter change intervals shown on the information display. Strong words, but Honda's words.
Considering that synthetic oils weren't as common now as they were more than a decade ago, is the dashboard oil change % based on synthetic or conventional oil? I forgot to write down mileage when I did the last oil change so I can't figure it out that way.
The maintenance minder doesn't know what type (conventional, synthetic, olive, corn...) or weight of oil you use. It is a simple/dumb algorithm based on a small number of parameters, most likely including things like operating hours, idle time, RPMs, and temperature.
I have never seen mine (2010 Fit Sport A/T) drop below 70% before my annual oil change at 5000-6000 highway miles. I'm about ready for my 2025 oil change and I'm still at 80%.
You certainly have a rough idea of when you did the oil change, right? If you know within the nearest 1000 miles that should be good enough. Change after 5000 miles or a year (whichever comes first) and call it good.
Honda must have regional specs for oil because my 2010 recommends conventional 5W-20. Says you may use synthetic if it meets the same requirements given for conventional motor oil. Also, in the same synthetic section, it says you must follow the oil and filter change intervals shown on the information display. Strong words, but Honda's words.
Mine does say 5w as well. But I read up a decent amount and 0w is fine for 2nd generation. In fact I believe 2nd gens after 2011 or '12 come with a 0w recommendation even though the engines are the same as before. The 0w is for viscosity at startup. It flows better cold but after warmup has the same viscosity as 5w.
Mine does say 5w as well. But I read up a decent amount and 0w is fine for 2nd generation. In fact I believe 2nd gens after 2011 or '12 come with a 0w recommendation even though the engines are the same as before. The 0w is for viscosity at startup. It flows better cold but after warmup has the same viscosity as 5w.
I was mistaken @donlogan on my post above about Honda specifications requiring Synthetic oil. You're right about the oil weight change. The owner's manual for our (USA) 2013 reads:
Premium-grade 0W-20 Detergent Oil with an API Certification Seal on the container
You may also use synthetic motor oil if it is labeled with the API Certification Seal and is the specified viscosity grade
10 years ago I was using Amsoil. Been using it for probably 20 years now, but it got a bit too expensive. I use Costco Full Synth which is probably Mobil 1 and I am using a viscosity of 5w-20, for added protection. I live in Tucson, AZ. My mileage has gone down a little but my valve chatter has almost been eliminated.
I am using a viscosity of 5w-20, for added protection... My mileage has gone down a little but my valve chatter has almost been eliminated.
In comparison to what? If you're comparing to the 0w-20 recommendation being discussed here, 5w-20 oil has the same viscosity (i.e., "20") at operating temperature, meaning that both should perform the same. 0w-20 is thinner and flows better at cold temperatures.
As you have observed, you might expect a small drop in efficiency because of the (slightly) thicker cold viscosity, but considering the typical daily low temperatures in Tucson I doubt that there is much difference in oil flow at startup between 0w-20 and 5w-20 for most of the year. A change in valve noise is most likely the placebo effect, or perhaps your valves need adjustment.
In this case, you're not going to hurt anything (in fact, Honda recommended 5w-20 for the first few years of second generation Fits before later revising to 0w-20), but you're probably not helping anything either. My 2010 oil cap says 5w-20. I use the current recommendation of 0w-20.
If you have 24 minutes and want to get in-depth on oil grades, here you go:
My Owner's Manual says "Premium grade 0W-20 detergent oil with an API Certification Seal on the container." It says 0W-20 on the filler cap, too. I never paid any attention to the "detergent" part.
It's a 5k reminder and I find it ironic as the synths are 7k now. I drive a 2018 EX-L and the counter is still at 5k miles even though they had pure synth in 2017-18 that can have extended intervals. I find a lot of Honda's cab functions archaic in today's world of functionality. Like the media display running Android 3.0...what?
Why would I need my valves adjusted if they are quieter? I've talked with my local Honda shop (they are not a dealer) and they say that I could even run 5w-30 in the engine and might benefit from less engine ear in the summer's extreme heat hereof an average 105 degrees. I have also changed oils for my wife's Jeep which was also recommending 0-20 and then have to do some major bearing repair down the road, no thanks!
Why would I need my valves adjusted if they are quieter? I've talked with my local Honda shop (they are not a dealer) and they say that I could even run 5w-30 in the engine and might benefit from less engine ear in the summer's extreme heat hereof an average 105 degrees. I have also changed oils for my wife's Jeep which was also recommending 0-20 and then have to do some major bearing repair down the road, no thanks!
Quieter is a qualitative term. If you feel like they're quieter than they used to be, it could be:
1) placebo effect
2) something magic about 5w-20 oil vs 0w-20 oil
3) valves are tighter than they used to be, which can be bad.
If you told me that the the valves were checked/adjusted 10K miles ago, that would probably rule out #3. If you told me you have no idea when/if the valves were adjusted, that would lean a bit towards #3.
If you told me that it's definitely #2, I'm going to slowly shake my head in agreement while thinking that it's probably #1.
Why would I need my valves adjusted if they are quieter? I've talked with my local Honda shop (they are not a dealer) and they say that I could even run 5w-30 in the engine and might benefit from less engine ear in the summer's extreme heat hereof an average 105 degrees. I have also changed oils for my wife's Jeep which was also recommending 0-20 and then have to do some major bearing repair down the road, no thanks!
Is your oil level always at the upper-most limit? I've noticed that if my engine oil level drops even a little (on the dipstick), the engine seems noisier. I might be imagining things.
Considering that synthetic oils weren't as common now as they were more than a decade ago, is the dashboard oil change % based on synthetic or conventional oil? I forgot to write down mileage when I did the last oil change so I can't figure it out that way.
Grew up with a neighbor that was a Oil engineer for Chevron. SO just my life experience here not a "bob the oil guy"..
He told me the best thing to remember is that the 2 numbers are performance at temperature,
so 10w40 means @32F its 10 wt, and at 212F its 40wt. Unless you live in the arctic, 5w20 or
5w30 would be "just" enough less viscous to allow more cling to internal parts. SO no surprise
if the valve train would be a smidge quieter with 5w** vs 0w** weight oils.
I ignore hte oil light indicators on all my cars, I change it at a max of 5500 miles and often around 4000 miles, just because it makes my mechanical side happy.
I run Liquimoly mostly NAPA carries it. High quality synthetic with a lower price than the boutique Oils like Royal Purple or Amzoil.
Notice how older JDM cars and all older cars in general used to have a chart that allowed the owner to determine based on their climate and driving habbits which was the optimal oil for PROTECTION of the engine (fuel economy hah not really factored in like that yet) In the Winter I'll run a 0 or 5w-20, but in the summer I run a 5w-30 weight oil. I also come from a background of factory turbo charged mitsubishi engines though... But they at least people would commonly go up in viscosity if you're not just daily driving them, but you're making big power, or racing they'd often run a 40 weight oil as a minimum. Engineer's should be listened to yes, but engineers were just consulted for that manual I promise you, not asked what was their opinion for optimal engine LIFE. They were told to factor in other concerns, like fuel economy... Which we all know has pushed to thinner oils. Do what you want though it's your car, and it's not like Honda gave garbage advice or anything, just saying they on these cars, and at the time they were made, I'm positive factored in engine drag due to thicker oil as a con. Also consider all this "protect people from themselves" and whatnot now days.
