You're pretty much spot on to what needs to be done around that mileage, my '08 is just 3k miles short of yours.

The coolant and transmission fluid are both 5 year/60k mile intervals (every 30k afterwards on ATF), the brake fluid is 3 year/36k miles. I personally had adjusted my valves around the 45k mark; my exhaust valves were a bit little loose and intakes were tight. Mind you, in my case I drive the car very spiritedly but nearing 60k miles it would be something to consider. Both the engine air and cabin air filters are recommended to be replaced every year or 15k if I recall correctly. The only other thing I can honestly think to check out is the brakes to see how much wear they'd have and recalls.

As far as the oil, there shouldn't be an issue with switching back to conventional from synthetic UNLESS an oil such as Royal Purple was used. Switching from RP to another oil will often lead to gasket leaks plus its not API certified. I personally would stick with a synthetic oil, especially if you'll be doing your own oil changes (you can find info on why in various oil discussions on the web).

In the case of 0w-20, it'll work but that's only if you want to run a thinner oil for fuel efficientcy purposes. In addition to that and to the best of my knowledge, there are no coventional blends of 0w-20 on the market as of yet. Just a full synthetic and a synthetic blend.

 

I have a similar question(s). I bought an 08' sport MT with 108k miles on it. I plan on doing all the usual maintanence.(tranny fluid, air and cabin filter, brake lines, oil was just changed, and new plugs). I'm new to the whole valve adjusting concept. What exactly does that involve? And are there other things I should be worried about changing?

 

For a valve adjustment, all the tech/doer is doing is readjusting the clearance of the rocker arm and the top of the valve stem. On the Fit you WILL NEED some sort of gasket sealant dab onto where the timing chain cover meets the engine block and while in there I'd also put in another valve cover gasket to ensure that it won't leak.

Some hoses have to come off (the PCV at minimum), the air box will have to come out, the throttle body moved aside, the intake manifold has to come off, and maybe something else I'm missing.

Here is a youtube video that would give you a more in depth idea. Its on an Accord but the valvetrain design is pretty much the same.

Honda Accord Valve Adjustment - YouTube

Also with 108k, you may also want to change (and gap before installing) your spark plugs. If memory serves me right, 105k is around when Honda recommends them in the service manual.

 

I'm good friends with a Honda mechanic so he should be able to help out with the valve adjustments. I know this is probably noob question (i'm new at this somewhat) don't the plus come pre-gapped? If not how does that work?

 

Nice! A Honda tech taught me how to adjust the valves on mine. If you aren't comfortable with performing the valve adjustment by all means have your friend (or another mechanic) look at it.

Some spark plugs do come pre-gapped, some don't regardless of brand. Its just a matter of getting a spark plug gapper (don't know actual name, but its this) and placing it between the electrode and the grounding point on the plug to check the gap and bending the grounding point accordingly to meet that gap's needed clearance.

I'm sure there are videos on youtube that show how to gap spark plugs.

 

^ You shouldn't really be gapping iridium spark plugs with that kind of gapper. Iridium electrode tips can be pretty fragile.

If you're going to re-gap them, you could use the kind of gappers that don't put pressure on the electrode.

 

I apprciate the info, I. Just got to find the time to do all this maintenance now.