Yet another battery post, has anyone tried the SLI26R Duracell Procell
Yet another battery post, has anyone tried the SLI26R Duracell Procell
Hi Fit Freaks,
I'm sitting on the fence on whether to do a battery mod or not when I came across a battery I haven't heard talked about here. When I search for a honda fit on batterie plus's website it comes up with two compatible batteries, the sli151r, which we are familiar with, but also the following sli26r.
SLI26R Duracell Procell Battery - 2007 to 2011 L4 1.5L 330CCA - Fit - Honda - Car and Truck - Batteries Plus
Which claims to have 540 CCA.
Do any of you know about this? Has anyone tried it?
I'm sitting on the fence on whether to do a battery mod or not when I came across a battery I haven't heard talked about here. When I search for a honda fit on batterie plus's website it comes up with two compatible batteries, the sli151r, which we are familiar with, but also the following sli26r.
SLI26R Duracell Procell Battery - 2007 to 2011 L4 1.5L 330CCA - Fit - Honda - Car and Truck - Batteries Plus
Which claims to have 540 CCA.
Do any of you know about this? Has anyone tried it?
I recently installed a 26R superstart battery in my GE8. 715 cranking amps, I think its also rated to 540 cca
I cut a 1/2 inch thick slab of wood to use as a spacer under battery and on top of battery tray.
battery tray had the engine, radiator, and ecu sides cut off. the headlight side I left a 1.5 inch wall so the wood had a thing to hold it.
I removed the positive battery terminal connection by unbolting all the 4 wires and the side alternator/starting wire.
I cut the plastic "legs" off, so the bottom of the thing was now flat. I put everything back together, and so far I ahve NOT needed a battery tie down. It is firmly wedged between the wire harness clip on the left (one on the 45 degree angle arm), the ecu in back, the battery tiedown flap (where a J bolt hooks) in front, and the headlight to the right.
I dont have pictures right now, but I can definitely provide some this weekend, if texas decides to stay dry!!
I cut a 1/2 inch thick slab of wood to use as a spacer under battery and on top of battery tray.
battery tray had the engine, radiator, and ecu sides cut off. the headlight side I left a 1.5 inch wall so the wood had a thing to hold it.
I removed the positive battery terminal connection by unbolting all the 4 wires and the side alternator/starting wire.
I cut the plastic "legs" off, so the bottom of the thing was now flat. I put everything back together, and so far I ahve NOT needed a battery tie down. It is firmly wedged between the wire harness clip on the left (one on the 45 degree angle arm), the ecu in back, the battery tiedown flap (where a J bolt hooks) in front, and the headlight to the right.
I dont have pictures right now, but I can definitely provide some this weekend, if texas decides to stay dry!!
I would be EXTREMELY interested to learn more about this battery, searching google only brings up links to batteries plus, with no battery dimensions. I went to batteries plus last year after my battery wouldn't start, the only one they had at that time was the 151r we all know too well. I'm not interested in doing any modding so a factory fit would be amazing!
well, a 151 series fitment for batteries currently has ZERO affordable and reliable options.
My extra size 26R was $90 and I expect this thing to easily last 10 years.
My 1990 civic that I bought in 2002 or 2003 still had the ORIGINAL honda battery. That was a 51R or 51 fitment, and quite frankly, a 51 series is plenty of power for what honda was making back then. Hell, they are in current civics, or at least to the 8th gen (06-11)
They were also in S2000s and plenty of the acura cars that matched the civics and accords over the years (integra, rsx, tsx, tl, etcc)
My extra size 26R was $90 and I expect this thing to easily last 10 years.
My 1990 civic that I bought in 2002 or 2003 still had the ORIGINAL honda battery. That was a 51R or 51 fitment, and quite frankly, a 51 series is plenty of power for what honda was making back then. Hell, they are in current civics, or at least to the 8th gen (06-11)
They were also in S2000s and plenty of the acura cars that matched the civics and accords over the years (integra, rsx, tsx, tl, etcc)
I dont have pictures right now, but I can definitely provide some this weekend, if texas decides to stay dry!!
Last edited by Spacecoast; Dec 13, 2013 at 06:25 PM.
Kirkland 51r is 70$ at Costco. Backed with an 8 year warranty. You need to do very little modding to fit it in the GD. Not sure about the GE, I think the battery connectors need to be extended to reach the terminals but maybe a GE owner can confirm this.
Honestly, there's no "modding" really involved. The battery is about an inch wider so that means that it will not sit inside the flexible PVC undertray. You can either just discard the tray or cut off one side to make room for the extra width, then the fitment is perfect.
A real must in a cold climate. Puts out 550CCA
Honestly, there's no "modding" really involved. The battery is about an inch wider so that means that it will not sit inside the flexible PVC undertray. You can either just discard the tray or cut off one side to make room for the extra width, then the fitment is perfect.
A real must in a cold climate. Puts out 550CCA
I got my 26R at Oreillys (that how its spelled?) with a 10% military discount
Similar prices across other partsstores, maybe $5-$10 difference
If your partsstore is charging a lot more, ask them if they can match their online prices. They might be able to do it.
Or not. I do not know
EDIT, Ill get pictures of my battery install in a bit. Its 40 degrees out, much warmer then wisconsin was!! perfect weather for a bit of car work
Similar prices across other partsstores, maybe $5-$10 difference
If your partsstore is charging a lot more, ask them if they can match their online prices. They might be able to do it.
Or not. I do not know
EDIT, Ill get pictures of my battery install in a bit. Its 40 degrees out, much warmer then wisconsin was!! perfect weather for a bit of car work
So either way with a 26R or 51R the battery will be bigger, is what Im getting.
I can get the military discount, maybe i'll check with my buddy thats the manager of O'Reilly's and see. I just can't believe that a Fit battery is so expensive, but I bought a battery for my truck and it was like 70 bucks. I just grabbed a big one for it.
I can get the military discount, maybe i'll check with my buddy thats the manager of O'Reilly's and see. I just can't believe that a Fit battery is so expensive, but I bought a battery for my truck and it was like 70 bucks. I just grabbed a big one for it.
I went with the cheapest 26R they had. Surprisingly enough, it wasnt the lowest power. Mine I found out looking at it again, is rated 575 cold cranking, and 715 normal cranking amps
Heres a few pictures to help you guys out.



Ignore the blue thing, that is my homemade oil catcher to catch the ridiculous amounts of oil that pass through the PCV system. Oil spary = detonation at a minor level, but enough for the ecu to pull timing back a few degrees, as measured over several hundred miles of testing.
Heres a few pictures to help you guys out.
Ignore the blue thing, that is my homemade oil catcher to catch the ridiculous amounts of oil that pass through the PCV system. Oil spary = detonation at a minor level, but enough for the ecu to pull timing back a few degrees, as measured over several hundred miles of testing.
Bump from the grave.
I'm looking at getting this Duracell now. What intrigues me a bit is that BatteriesPlus offers free install, but I wonder how much slicing and dicing they have to do in order to cram a 26R into the car (especially given that they say it's a fit). If I have to install an aftermarket intake to accommodate a better battery, then that's fine, but I know BatteriesPlus isn't gonna do it!
They're also selling a Rayovac now, but the Duracell has 25% more CCA and I'm in New England, so........yeah.
I recently installed a 26R superstart battery in my GE8. 715 cranking amps, I think its also rated to 540 cca
I cut a 1/2 inch thick slab of wood to use as a spacer under battery and on top of battery tray.
battery tray had the engine, radiator, and ecu sides cut off. the headlight side I left a 1.5 inch wall so the wood had a thing to hold it.
I removed the positive battery terminal connection by unbolting all the 4 wires and the side alternator/starting wire.
I cut the plastic "legs" off, so the bottom of the thing was now flat. I put everything back together, and so far I ahve NOT needed a battery tie down. It is firmly wedged between the wire harness clip on the left (one on the 45 degree angle arm), the ecu in back, the battery tiedown flap (where a J bolt hooks) in front, and the headlight to the right.
I cut a 1/2 inch thick slab of wood to use as a spacer under battery and on top of battery tray.
battery tray had the engine, radiator, and ecu sides cut off. the headlight side I left a 1.5 inch wall so the wood had a thing to hold it.
I removed the positive battery terminal connection by unbolting all the 4 wires and the side alternator/starting wire.
I cut the plastic "legs" off, so the bottom of the thing was now flat. I put everything back together, and so far I ahve NOT needed a battery tie down. It is firmly wedged between the wire harness clip on the left (one on the 45 degree angle arm), the ecu in back, the battery tiedown flap (where a J bolt hooks) in front, and the headlight to the right.
They're also selling a Rayovac now, but the Duracell has 25% more CCA and I'm in New England, so........yeah.
So as I guessed, they wouldn't do anything more than a simple drop-in replacement.
I'm actually thinking rather than butchering the 151 battery tray, I may look for one designed for the 26R and work on getting that to fit instead.
I'm actually thinking rather than butchering the 151 battery tray, I may look for one designed for the 26R and work on getting that to fit instead.
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