Please note that cars listed on the same line of the classification are considered the same car. For example, in H-Stock, the line reads:
Civic del Sol S, Si (94+)
This means wheels from the Si can be used on the S. But all the Civic Si are listed independently and therefore, you can't use the '02-'05 wheel size on an '89-'91 Si. So if the listing reads (and you'll have to look at the FasTrack issue to see) "Fit (all)" or something similar, you can use the Sport wheel size.

If you decide to run competition tires, just buy a set of Sport stock rims from someone here. They can't be significantly heavier than what available in 15x6. (Most rims are 15x6.5 or x7.) Another suggestion is to find a set of Civic VX or HX alloys. They're very light and might be the 14" you're looking for.

BTW, changes in ride height is no longer part of the rules.

Have Fun.

 

Anyone have thoughts one whether or not the Fit Sport Auto might be fun for AutoX? I've never raced an automatic car, but I've tried my car in Sport mode with and without paddles and I think it might be a lot of fun. The tranny keeps the revs up by dropping gears and running each gear to redline. I've been playing with it lately...it hurts gas mileage, but I think this car might be a lot of fun in H Stock.

 

Do any of you guys go to the NASA TT events? I ask because All I see here is SCCA.

Here in Puerto Rico We adopted the NASA-TT 2007 rules.

Is there a mayor difference that you know?

BTW, If this is material for another thread, lets do it.

Please advise

 

Autoxing any car is fun. Typically, the SCCA courses are laid out to use only one gear (2nd). Sometimes, in certain cars, tight turns will require a down shift, or long straights will require an upshift. I won one event in my GSR because I could hold first up through a tight turn (love that 8k redline) while all other cars in STS were shifting to 2nd, to 1st, to 2nd. I also crashed my WRX because of a long fast straight and bend. I was going 65+ in a parking lot. It was my fault because I didn't maintain control of the car but it can happen. But given good course designers, those situations are rare.

So, there is no advantage or disadvantage. Techniques such as left foot braking can keep an auto trans converter spooled up and it can work great. So "mod" cars prefer autos as the rules allow changes to make them competitive.

Thinking a little bit more, if the CVT could be set to keep the engine between certain RPMs, it would be very good. Although, I know the way that I flail behind the wheel, I'd constantly be hitting the paddles.

I say, get out there and let us what you think.

 

Actually u can run up to a 48 offset with the 1/4" buffer offset they allow.

 

I haven't seen any lightweight aftermarket wheels in that offset. If you do find some let me know.

BUMPING this thread for more interest. The first Regional AutoX for me is later this month. Either I'll race here or possibly travel down to Kansas City for their first event on the same day.

I've decided to prep my car for H Stock for now until my STS SE-R is done. If I like the Fit in HS then I'll stick with it for awhile. I'm looking at sticky tires right now. Avon Tech RAs are on sale at the Tirerack and those seem to be a great deal at $119 each. I've already got my K&N panel filter. I can't seem to find any aftermarket shocks/struts yet.

 

What size are you going with?

I would LOVE to see someone at the national level prep a Fit for H Stock. I think it would hold its own. Although it seems down on power compared to the MINI, I believe it corners at least as well. I'm especially encouraged after seeing the Mazda3i do so well at Nationals.

You can find light wheels that are the right offset; you just have to be willing to spend big bucks for a set to be custom made. I'd guess it would run $1200-1500 for a set. That's a lot of money for stock-sized wheels.

I still think the non-sport Fit with race-valved struts and 225 rubber would tear it up at the national level . . .

Mike

 

205/50 R comps. Most likely the sale priced Avon Tech RAs.

I really won't know until I start racing it if the car has national ability just yet. Ideally it would be better to have a MT, but I've tested the car out a little with the paddle shifters of the AT and I'm pretty satisfied it can do the job just about as well. Getting used to that might be tricky.

I think I'll either purchase a 2nd set of Sport wheels or just use mine for AutoX and some other wheels for daily driving on.

Short of having my stock shocks rebuilt I haven't found anything aftermarket yet. I'll have to wait around for that. As far as exhaust options...I'm not sure what to do. I want to keep my daily driver quiet, but the rules would allow for a straight pipe cat back. It's tempting...but some low/midrange power would be given up for more top end.

 

I am no expert in the matter ( I only have raced the Fit twice ), but What is the average speed you will race? I ask because for what I have experienced, the drivetrain gets quite hot. you may want to ad a transmision oil cooler....

Why is so much of an issue the offset? I know that the rules said that the offset afect the track of the vehicle, but as you said there wont be lightweigt rims with an offset close to the 55 stock for cheap!!!!

Try to look for Suzuki esteem 2000-2002 SPEEDLINE 5 LEGS wheels ( the 15's from the glx mostly wagons which actually are the most commons) they should have the right offset, and they are really light!! I had one of those wagons and I was really pissed off when my wife made a deal for a 2005 Ford escape whithout telling me first. ( I would had toke those rims out, since the esteem went in trade-in)

For the tires, I highly recomend the Toyo proxes RA1 (they last long and stikc better as they wear), I cut like 9 seconds from my first track day to the second just changing tires and I bought RA1's because I can't afford the Kumho V710 or V712........ wait never mind the tires, I just saw the Avon's, THEY SHOULD BE FAR BETTER THAN THE TOYOS!!! since they are just sliks. I wish I had money to them, but anyway those tires will cost me 11 class points.

If you want to keep the car quiet for the daily conmmute, just take the muffler out to race. BELIVE ME... you'll like it., and it cost only 1 class point.

BTW, I race under 2007 NASA-TT rules.


I hope I help a little, and good luck in your auto x

 

Getting a second set of Sport wheels is certainly the cost-effective way to go. I wonder how hard it would be to remove the cat-back system before each event and replace it with a less restrictive set up . . .

Getting some race shocks and good rubber will be the keys to success with this car. And a good alignment.

Mike

 

The offset of the wheels is a big deal because the rules says so. The wheels can only vary from stock offset by 1/4". That makes finding aftermarket lightweight wheels difficult. Toyo RA1s make a good track tire, but they are not grippy enough for great auto-x use.

He can do whatever he wants to the exhaust after the cat as long as it's relatively quiet and terminates behind the driver. In SCCA classes, there are no points penalties like in NASA rules. Either you can do it, or you can't.

May have to investigate that Suzuki Esteem wheel deal . . .

Mike

 

I primarily do SCCA Solo (aka Autocross) here locally and I will travel to Kansas City, Kansas or Topeka for events there occasionally. Our courses here are fairly low speeds. If I had to guess most of them are sub 40 mph. Kansas City on the other hand has a very big site to race at that you can get up to 65 mph! Very fun. I'm not sure my Fit would get going that quick, but my old STi did. Courses are less than 1 minute and 1 single lap so a tranny cooler won't really be necessary.

I'll have to check out those Suzuki wheels. The guys/gals on SCCAforums.com have been a good resource.

The RA-1s are excellent tires, but they just don't get hot enough for AutoX in most cases. They're built with the roadcourse in mind because once they warm up they stick and they'll last. AutoX tires are built to warm up very quickly. It's weird, but "stock" classes allow for use of R comp tires. If you don't want to use R comps they have other classes that are specifically for street tires. Then again there are a lot of sticky street tires these days which are close to being as fast as R comps.

I don't know if it would be worth it to remove the muffler for an event at this point. I'll be changing wheels/tires every event and on hot days that alone can get tiring.

Thanks for all the suggestions/feedback though. I'm suprised there isn't more interest in this thread.

 

I'm looking into a 2nd set of Sport wheels as we speak with another forum member here. I guess if I had a muffler-less catback with hangers that I put on before an event and removed later when I got home it might not be a bad deal. Should be cheap too. I wonder how loud (in db) it would be. Some AutoXs have sound restrictions.

Race shocks are key. I'm still trying to find answers. A lot of the good R comps are cut to allow for camber challenged cars like ours. I don't to go too crazy with alignments, shocks or anything else just yet until I figure out how competitive I think this car can be. My first race in KC should tell me that though. That's the benchmark here in my neck of the woods. It's fairly easy to win locally...especially for someone with as much seat time as myself.

I ordered a CG Lock ( CG-Lock Performance Add-on for your Seat belt ) which should help as well. The Fit seats are pretty good and supportive, but you can't beat something like this for the $$.

 

The fit cannot compete with the older lighter hondas in STS class. They are about 400 pounds lighter with a bit more power too

 

Agreed. Neither can my '93 SE-R, but it will be faster than my Fit.

I'm running H Stock with my Fit.

 

I agree somewhat, although your starting off better with the ef gen hondas with suspension, weight and power advantages you still have a similar class car(si- a little more) it would just take more money and tuning to get a car that would beat out a nicely tuned ef honda. Its possible but not optimal to start in a fit.

In general, the car has great race car capabilities for its chassis, but it takes a lot to get there and in all reality the fit is not a sports car in stock form.

 

Neither is an '89 Civic Si.

So I e-mailed KYB yesterday to see if they had anything for the Fit currently or in development and this was the professional response I received. Sounds like they REALLY want my business.

My e-mail:
I'm wondering if you have any shocks/struts for my '07 Honda Fit Sport.
I plan to Autocross it in SCCA Solo H Stock class and I'm looking for a
set of adjustable shocks/struts that will be an improvement over stock.
I'm mostly interested in the AGX model.
Thanks
The response:
*my name here,*
We do not offer anything for the Honda fit.
Thank you,
Dan
KYB America LLC

 

What about Koni? Or maybe (crossing fingers) a set of overpriced Edlebrocks....

I know J's Racing carries a decent coilover, a little pricy, setup. Just get the rears out of the coilover kit and see what happens

 

I e-mailed Koni today. I'll follow up later on their response. Never heard of Edlebrock making shocks/struts.

No way I'll buy a set of coils just to tear out the shocks/struts. If that's the case I'll go to STS with the coilovers on. However I don't want to spend too much on this car. It is my daily driver.

 

Who did you e-mail at Koni? I have Lee Grimes' e-mail that I can use if you want me to. He's a Honda geek and a helluva guy.

Edelbrock makes shocks, but they're not race-valved. The fitments are mostly for Detroit iron anyway. Don't bother.

Koni could convert your front shocks, and I'll bet there is a set of rears the right dimensions, but you may be looking at big bucks. I don't think you'd want to subject your mega-buck shocks to daily driving. As far a alignment goes, just get as much camber up front as you can and as little out back. You may try disconnecting the front sway bar, too. Seeing that you have lots of seat time, this is surely not news to you, but anyhow . . . Also put some toe out up front. The toe out is what would affect your tire wear the most. Get it set to race mode, mark it, then set it to street mode and mark it. I bet you could change from street to race toe in about 2 minutes at the same time you're changing front tires. What do you think?

Mike