A/T Trans. Fluid B&M Supercooler and Temp Guage
just installed a cyberdine blue led digital trans temp gauge today nested inside a carbon fiber cup with a swivel mount. looks sweet. i added another sending unit to the line going from the tranny to the cooler to get a more accurate temp of the fluid as it leaves the tranny.
so far the reading i got today was around 140 farenheight. that ws just taking it for a ride around town. not on the highway. The coolant temp in the radiator was around 175. i wish the damn helms manual said what the normal operating temp was for the fit A/T. Obviously in the cold winters it would be cooler. in the summer is when the tranny cooler will prove most useful. A little concerned that if i use the cooler in the winter the fluid will be too cold. But the cooler i got has LPD so hopefully it is doing what it is supposed to do.
I am gonna call honda tomorrow cause i have to schedule my element for service(windshield washer fluid motor is kaput) so i will ask them. Maybe they know what the temp range is supposed to be for the A/T.
so far the reading i got today was around 140 farenheight. that ws just taking it for a ride around town. not on the highway. The coolant temp in the radiator was around 175. i wish the damn helms manual said what the normal operating temp was for the fit A/T. Obviously in the cold winters it would be cooler. in the summer is when the tranny cooler will prove most useful. A little concerned that if i use the cooler in the winter the fluid will be too cold. But the cooler i got has LPD so hopefully it is doing what it is supposed to do.
I am gonna call honda tomorrow cause i have to schedule my element for service(windshield washer fluid motor is kaput) so i will ask them. Maybe they know what the temp range is supposed to be for the A/T.
the tranny cooler by B&M is made to take a serious beating for rocks. i have an oil cooler from B&M, mounted it in front lower air dam. protects the radiator and takes the hits. its solid, it wont ****. the lines wont either. The tube-fin designs are more flimsy than bar-plate.
having the cooler behind the bumper is almost useless. the cooler is made to be exposed to DIRECT airflow. which is why the a/c condenser and radiator takes up as much room as possible to maximize cooling.
having the cooler behind the bumper is almost useless. the cooler is made to be exposed to DIRECT airflow. which is why the a/c condenser and radiator takes up as much room as possible to maximize cooling.
who are you replying to exactly about the placement of the cooler. Confused. the cooler can't be mounted outside the car. it has to be behind the bumper. either above or below. either way it is exposed to air either from the top grill or bottom one. now if it was mounted behind the radiator then i would agree unless it had its own fan.
Just a suggestion:
Synthetic ATF has a much lower pour point (temperature at which it can still flow instead of turning to a gel) than conventional petroleum ATF. Synthetic also has a higher boiling and flash point than petroleum. Amsoil was the first to make this for cars 25-30 years ago and still makes the best, IMO. You can find it made by Redline and several other makers as well.
Synthetic ATF has a much lower pour point (temperature at which it can still flow instead of turning to a gel) than conventional petroleum ATF. Synthetic also has a higher boiling and flash point than petroleum. Amsoil was the first to make this for cars 25-30 years ago and still makes the best, IMO. You can find it made by Redline and several other makers as well.
who are you replying to exactly about the placement of the cooler. Confused. the cooler can't be mounted outside the car. it has to be behind the bumper. either above or below. either way it is exposed to air either from the top grill or bottom one. now if it was mounted behind the radiator then i would agree unless it had its own fan.
Just a suggestion:
Synthetic ATF has a much lower pour point (temperature at which it can still flow instead of turning to a gel) than conventional petroleum ATF. Synthetic also has a higher boiling and flash point than petroleum. Amsoil was the first to make this for cars 25-30 years ago and still makes the best, IMO. You can find it made by Redline and several other makers as well.
Synthetic ATF has a much lower pour point (temperature at which it can still flow instead of turning to a gel) than conventional petroleum ATF. Synthetic also has a higher boiling and flash point than petroleum. Amsoil was the first to make this for cars 25-30 years ago and still makes the best, IMO. You can find it made by Redline and several other makers as well.
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...-cooler-3.html
except that i do not recommend using Redline or any other types. ONLY Amsoil is the one proven to work fine for Hondas. Redline needs a certain amount of LubeGuard High Friction Modifier to work with Hondas. theres a member using M1 ATF, but i'm not sure if it was made specific to Honda's specs like Amsoil is.
you questioned the synthetic fluid's ability to hold different heat tolerances and breakdown. i answered under your "conditions".
got the new sending unit installed today. Still reading a it low though. I might disconnect the tranny cooler until it warms up in the spring.
Anywho, here's a couple of pics of the gauge. Got it to dimm by hooking it up to the red/yel wire in the headlight switch.


Anywho, here's a couple of pics of the gauge. Got it to dimm by hooking it up to the red/yel wire in the headlight switch.


it might be nessary with big power upgrades i guess... but i squeezed a 100shot on a 03 honda pilot for about one year with 70K on the odometer and it was always knock on wood. pilots and MDX's are notorious for tranny fauliers too of that year... i just changed my honda ATF more often.. im telling you this pilot went through some HARD AWD launchs too. cutting 1.89 60fts stalling the tranny at 1900 RPMs... i would just change the fuild very often if your looking for lonjeviety and stick with honda ATF too.
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