Royal Purple is good stuff, however very expensive. I've been using it for many years in Honda/Mazda motors.

 

So i went from conventional 5w20 to full synthetic 5w20, you would be SPECULATING/ASSUMING that there would be no performance increases??

Again, this is on FULL SPECULATION.

I can get it for Lordco at a AWESOME price. How do you like it?? Have you noticed any performance gains?

 

I switched to AMSOil 0w30 series 2000 full synthetic with an EA AMSOil filter and my but dyno can confirm a slight performance increase. Especially in the low rpm's; the little engine doesn't struggle as much at lower engine speeds. On full 3rd gear pull you an tell the engine is going through the revs with less stress; whereas I would feel the engine's power die after 4,500 rpm it now keeps developing power all the way to redline.

I have only removed the stock silencer, no other mods, and I dont have any numbers to back up my claims, just a perception. Another fact I can share is that a ran against my cousin's Xa wich has full I/H/E, 1ZZGE injectors and a lightly tuned CAMCon computer and my pretty much stock Fit ran exacty even across the gears all the way into 5th from a stop.

 

Minor performance gain. But some. However, it is all the minor performance gains together that put you in front of the other guy if that matters to you. I have had conversations with several professional engine builders/drivers/racers recommend it for small displacement engines.

I like it much. I ran it in my build Integra LS a few years back and redlined that car everyday I owned it for 100,000 miles. I'm running it now in my Miata which doesn't see as much track time but does get the piss run out of it when I run mountain passes.

If you can get a good deal on it, go for it!

 

I used royal purple and felt the power increase instantly. and no it isn't a placebo effect. I'm sure good stuff

 

Actually, if you go to Royal Purple's own website and look up the summaries of the studies they publish and quote, nearly all of them either don't tell you which grade oil they are comparing to Royal Purple or they state that they are comparing a heavier weight conventional oil to a lighter weight Royal Purple synthetic. The studies posted on their own website demonstrate that most or all of the performance gains are based on running thinner weight oils and lubricants made possible by the more stable synthetics.

 

I just recently did an oil change with royal purple 5w20. The butt dyno feels a little extra power. Its like the car just gets up and goes easier. I use the paddle shifters most of the time. I definitly notice a slight difference. I used to use mobile 1 in all of my cars. I think I continue to use the Royal purple now. Its Good stuff. My only question is does Royal Purple make synthetic auto trans fluid and if so how safe is synthetic trans fluid in a honda auto trans? Just asking because this is my first auto car since my very first car and in the manual it says only to use honda ATF. I just don't want to screw up the trans.

 

Elf doesnt come in 5w20 and the closest thing they have is 5w30
http://www.elflubricants.ca/image/PD...ionSXR5W30.pdf

Ams has the following tech specs
AMSOIL - Extended Life 5W-20 Synthetic Motor Oil (XLM)

Mobil 1
Mobil 1 5W-20

and i cant seem to find a spec sheet for royal purple sae 5w20

my local mechanic recommends ELF but im worried about the kinematic viscosity rating compared to the 5w20 weighted oils, it's 15% thicker at 40c and 11% thicker at 100c compared to mobil 1 (iirc honda synthetic is mobil 1)

in all other aspects ELF is superior but if the oil is too thick to be pumped quick enough to lubricate the parts than the benefits will be outweighed by the increased wear

my aforementioned mechanic also said mobil 1's base oil is mineral and not synthetic but their website leads me to think otherwise

 

I know they make ATF oils, but not sure if it's compatible with Honda ATF

 

wierd, i'm having a VERY similar thread:

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...al-purple.html

 

I've tried both RP and M1. neither have much of a difference except the color of the oil. RP seems to give a slight kick for about the first 500 miles or so when the oil is still fresh, but after that, its back to normal. I got tired of spending money on RP b/c its pretty much no different from M1. So i just stick with M1 as its convienent, Amsoil when i feel like spoiling the car. Amsoil is one of the best synthetic oils out there and has been proven to be one of the top ones.

When you switch to synthetic in general, its not about making HP, it just makes everything perform at a more efficient level. Cooling, cold-starts, gas mileage, longer oil drain intervals, etc.

RP's dyno tests are biased and do not exhibit real-world results. I believe i recall exactly what they used on their drag camaro:
-RP race oil
-RP coolant additve+distilled water
-RP trans fluid

The only trans fluid thats able to substitute for Honda ATF is Amsoil ATF. Redline ATF (which was recommended by Comptech) was found to cause trans problems on the TL/CL's that ran them. But Honda ATF is very good on its own.

As for the coolant part, running distilled water alone makes great for cooling during competitions vs. your 50/50 mix, as water has a high heat of vaporization. BUT, it is not good for the cooling system internals to run this daily as Honda's cooling system requires certain ingredients from Honda's Type-2 (or is it type-1?? i forgot which) coolant to prevent rusting and corrosion within the system.

Dyno graphs showing a <10hp is certainly questionable, as that is usually the margin of error between dynos.

 

oh btw, do NOT increase the viscosity rating thinking it'll be better. There is no benefit from doing so and can harm your motor. If you're still running on stock internals (which are spec'd for certain clearances), do not go any higher than 30weight.

 

so 03DSM-RSX, would you say that i should just go with 5w20 Mobil 1 synthetic?? what about an oil filter? uup hear in BC Canada, there's a very limited number of filter selection. I've got Fram, Napa, OEM, altrom, Mopar and nippon/nippon denso. What are your thoughts?? i would like to use Mobil 1 but i dont' know ahy


What about MOTUL 300V 5W40 from AJR?? i knwo that the viscosity is thicker, but how about the brand name??

 

Absolutely! that's what I was trying to say only I didn't. If you have any intent on driving your car hard for the long haul it's just the right thing too do.

Amsoil is great also. I personally got a much better deal on the Royal Purple so I went that direction. My cost on the Amsoil was much more. I don't think you can really go wrong with any of the above.

 

5w-20 is the stock rating for USDM Fits. I believe they are also for Canada. Use M1 5w-20, its fine for your engine and great year-round protection. Even on the bottle of M1-5w-20, it says "Honda approved". I used 5w-30 in my Fit, but i'm in much warmer climates than you are, so stick with 5w-20.

Do you have Mobil 1 oil filters over in canada? if so, the part number you need is M1-110. If not, you can just stick with OEM. From the list of brands up there, i wouldnt use them.

AJR's 5w-40 is the same as any other brand 5w-40. that is too thick and heavy for your stock motor and oil may not reach all the nooks and crannies of the internals to run the car efficiently. So no, dont use it, brand name usually doesnt matter. Motul is known for their brake fluid, not engine oil in my opinion. As long as you're running FULL synthetic, its all better than conventional oil.

 

the only reason im considering the ELF 5w30 oil is cuz my local mechanic says that mobil 1 and amsoil base oils arnt fully synthetic ... now i know at a time mobil 1 synthetic used mineral as their base but at this point in time everything ive read points to ams and M1 base oils being fully syn ...

i really dont feel comfortable with running an oil which is over 15% thicker than the recommended grade cold and 10% thicker hot ... im gonna check it up with him again later but as of now im split evenly between all of em ... prolly edging towards M1 just cuz it's so popular

 

yup, its even expensive for dealers to buy it too!

 

as far as i know aj's fit has stock engine internals ... perhaps its because they run it on a track under high load and temps that makes the 40 weight oil a necessity

 

hmm...i've never heard of ELF. Not sure on your mechanic's experience on oils, but they (ams/m1) are fully synthetic. If in doubt, just stick with Honda oil.

 

yes, under those conditions, it may be warranted. but i doubt AJR will keep the motor stock for long, so it doesnt matter. But you definitely dont want to be running 40wt for daily purposes. I kinda question their reasoning on using 40wt on the stock motor. It would actually cause some scoring on the cams/internals in high rpms if the oil is not moving freely.