15,200 miles:

I have no pics, but I finally went ahead and did it. Like many other instructions, I couldn't find the fill bolt. I loosened a bolt right above the drain bolt and it was bone dry! So I torque wrenched it back in at 33 lbs..

I ended up draining through the drain bolt which is marked with blue paint, then filled it through the dipstick hole using a hose tube funnel (do it slowly or it will spill out). Total refill is exactly (UPDATE: not 3 bottles) 2.5 bottles. I ran it around the neighborhood through a large hill to really get the fluid hot. I then rechecked the dipstick and it was dead-on where it should be when it is hot.

The shift is amazingly smoother and the powerband upon acceleration is much more robust. Shifting is quieter and so is downshifting when applying brakes. I also replaced the air filter bought through honda.. What a rip off .. $22.50. Give me a Wix any day for $12-$15.00.

Time to monitor my fuel efficiency.. steady a 30mpg before the change..

UPDATE: It's 2.5 Quarts, not 3 quarts!!! I'm gonna change mines out again since it's now over the line a bit on the dipstick. This could lead to gear slippage and foaming which results in improper lubrication. So 2.5 quarts is perfect. I overfilled my sister's 2005 accord as well with 3 quarts and it started to slip like crazy. Did a second flush with 2.5 quarts and the levels were perfect and no more slippage.

 

Keep in mind that three quarts is not the total capacity of the tranny so you only got a percent of the oil changed. you would have to calculate that % and re do the oil change a certain # of times to raise the % of new oil in the system. A more complete yet expensive way to get 100% new oil is take it to a shop that will suck out the old while putting in the new, that is the only way to get all new oil in a auto,,

 

Yep, that's been considered.. I recall reading somewhere that Honda doesnt recommend a flush but to simply change it every 15k instead. Either way, this is better than not changing it at all.

 

i gotta change mine. did u use the hew honda ATF fluid? maybe some B&N trick shift?

 

I used Honda's Genuine Auto Transmission Fluid. ATZ-1? forgot the exact designation. Now that I think of it, I should've used Redline, its the only Honda approved trannie fluid... or was it AMSOIL? Do some research.

 

i did a ATF change about 2 weeks ago right at 18000km. i bought 3 bottles of honda z-1($26 cdn with tax) and put about 2.4 liters according to my owners manual.

oil didnt look too bad when i drained it but after just one drain and refill, shifting is silky smooth. since i do 100% city driving with alot of stop and go traffic, i plan to do it every 2 engine oil change to keep the atf fresh. just do it, it's money well worth it IMHO

 

Amsoil is the approved synthetic.

 

greetings, how many kilometers do you change your ATF?

best regards

 

do not use any additives or other fluids besides Honda Z1 ATF or Amsoil ATF.

 

The fill bolt is behind the intake.

 

Yeah the fill hole is a big fill bolt behind the intake, u got to take off the intake box and u'll see it. I happen 2 take pix of it while i was doing my gauge install so enjoy!

PPL PLZ CHANGE UR TRANNY FLUID LOOK AT THE GUNKY METAL SHAVINGS I FOUND ON THE DRAIN PLUG. I did mine at 30k but i should have done it earlier. Shifting is a LOT better. I only used honda ATF fluid, about $7 a quart and u need 3 to fill up completely. BTW it IS magnatized to pick it up. I guess honda didn't forget about us AT guys.

Intake and battery removed.


The plug is CLEARLY marked ATF.


OMG look at that drain plug! eww!!!


Metal shavings on the paper towel.

 

That black sludge is from the clutch plate/band wear from normal use. Not to worry about it. It's when you get CHUNKS of metal you start to cry,,,

 

Thanks for the great pics on refilling the ATF. Do you happen to know what the drain plug and the filler bolt should be torqued to?

 

If u removed it, ur gonna know how TIGHT it was to get off. I just made it as tight as i could because there is NO way u can make it as tight as factory. The ATF drain plug i just did it as tight as i could cuz it's not going anywhere. Just make sure the car is COLD when u do tighten it cuz ur messing with aluminum and u don't want it to crack when it's expanded when it's hot.

 

I was looking at other sites on how to change ATF. They state that you have to change the filter too. Does the ATF have a filter that needs to be changed or cleaned? I'm having trouble locating AMSOIL in stores. Can it only be bought online? I need to know, because Honda changes the ATF for $69.95. I'd rather do it myself to save money.

 

There is a filter located under the battery tray if you have an A/T. I didn't change mine this time but next time i will. Did it this weekend and took 3 quarts. Also drained the radiator fluid and took the T/B off and cleaned out the carbon buildup. Got EBC rotors and pads too but couldn't get the damn screws off so my mechanic will do it on Monday.

 

Amsoil products are not sold in stores. Only through dealers that can be found in your local phone book, or through the Amsoil web site.

 

you need to find out if they change just the three quarts you get by pulling the plug or are they pumping ALL the ATF out while putting in new stuff for a 100% new oil change for 70- bucks,,,big difference in the two,,,

 

I just did my fluid over the wknd too. Piece of cake although the drain plug was torqued higher than I expected.

I didn't use the fill bolt, as I'm just acustomed to using a long funnel directly into the dipstick hole (have to remove the intake either way).

Assume you're talking about the infamous honda rotor screws. I just drill them out...unless you have a nice #3 phillips impact set...but even then, it is just easier to drill them. Home Depot has some 6mm 100 deg. flathead SS machine screws that work great as a replacement! Although, technically the screws are not even required.

 

i'm an Amsoil dealer