Maintenance Minder Oil life question
Here's the answer I got on another Forum from a Honda tech:
The oil life is stored (and calculated) by the PCM *_based on engine operating parameters_*. All of the other maintenance items are stored (and calculated) by the gauge control module *_based on mileage_*.
The Gauge control module will move maintenance items up or down a few thousand miles based on oil life, so keeping in mind that, while tire rotations are generally recommended every 7500 miles, if the oil life showed that an oil change was needed at 6000 miles, the sub-code for a tire rotation would come up also, or if the oil life was good to 9000 miles, that's when the rotate subcode would come up.
If you change your oil sooner, like say 40%, when you go through the reset procedure, the sub-codes that *_would_* have been displayed at the next oil change will flash to show what maintenance items would have been recommended at that time, and these sub-items will reset with the indicator.
If you decide to replace the coolant, air / cabin filters, transmission or differential fluids sooner than the recommended interval (meaning that these sub-codes are not displayed when the oil life is reset) then you would need to either have the gauge module updated with the Honda HDS scan tool, or accept that these sub-codes will not necessarily be relevant when they are displayed at a later mileage.
The minder is a convenience feature, but is not carved in stone. It will not account for noisy valves or transmission fluid that should be changed at 30,000 miles because of severe service, or vehicles that are driven in very dusty conditions. While the oil life is, for the most part, actually representative of how your vehicle is being operated, the other maintenance items are still going to come up as a mileage based recommendation, so if you want a clue as to what is going to be recommended at a given future mileage, just refer to an older model's (pre-maint. minder) NORMAL recommended service schedule. You'll find that the maintenance sub-items are going to pretty much follow the same schedule.
***************
So, it appears that the FIRST thing you should do when intending to change the oil, is to RESET THE MAINTENANCE MINDER. If any other items flash during the rest, DO THEM AS WELL.
And, keep a record of items done, and compare it to an older maintenance schedule (especially if you feel you should follow the Severe schedule, as 90% of us should do).
The oil life is stored (and calculated) by the PCM *_based on engine operating parameters_*. All of the other maintenance items are stored (and calculated) by the gauge control module *_based on mileage_*.
The Gauge control module will move maintenance items up or down a few thousand miles based on oil life, so keeping in mind that, while tire rotations are generally recommended every 7500 miles, if the oil life showed that an oil change was needed at 6000 miles, the sub-code for a tire rotation would come up also, or if the oil life was good to 9000 miles, that's when the rotate subcode would come up.
If you change your oil sooner, like say 40%, when you go through the reset procedure, the sub-codes that *_would_* have been displayed at the next oil change will flash to show what maintenance items would have been recommended at that time, and these sub-items will reset with the indicator.
If you decide to replace the coolant, air / cabin filters, transmission or differential fluids sooner than the recommended interval (meaning that these sub-codes are not displayed when the oil life is reset) then you would need to either have the gauge module updated with the Honda HDS scan tool, or accept that these sub-codes will not necessarily be relevant when they are displayed at a later mileage.
The minder is a convenience feature, but is not carved in stone. It will not account for noisy valves or transmission fluid that should be changed at 30,000 miles because of severe service, or vehicles that are driven in very dusty conditions. While the oil life is, for the most part, actually representative of how your vehicle is being operated, the other maintenance items are still going to come up as a mileage based recommendation, so if you want a clue as to what is going to be recommended at a given future mileage, just refer to an older model's (pre-maint. minder) NORMAL recommended service schedule. You'll find that the maintenance sub-items are going to pretty much follow the same schedule.
***************
So, it appears that the FIRST thing you should do when intending to change the oil, is to RESET THE MAINTENANCE MINDER. If any other items flash during the rest, DO THEM AS WELL.
And, keep a record of items done, and compare it to an older maintenance schedule (especially if you feel you should follow the Severe schedule, as 90% of us should do).
In my 08' Fit manual there are no maintenance schedules written down.
Does anyone have a list of when all this stuff is supposed to be changed out according to Honda and what the mileage is supposed to be?
Thanks!
Does anyone have a list of when all this stuff is supposed to be changed out according to Honda and what the mileage is supposed to be?
Thanks!
Awsome post, Amsoil is the real deal. I'v used it for years and will use nothing else! Dino oil isn't even in the same universe. Amsoil consistently outperforms conventional and other synthetic oils. Just check their web site for independant test results. thanks for the post manx!!
You're welcome clovis-
It is a fact that synthetic engine oils are better than crude derivatives in every way. But people seem to be compelled to argue against it. Arguing about a fact doesn't change it, and the arguments are, by default, fiction.
Jet engines produce 10, 20, 30 times higher rpm than auto engines, and operate with temperatures in the range of 2000-3000 degrees F. Amsoil synthetic lubricants were originated, and are still made, by an ex-Air Force jet engine mechanic. His reasoning was, if synthetic lubricants can protect the components of jet engines from such extremely harmful operating conditions, they can certainly do the same for automotive applications.
The fact is, he was and is right.
It is a fact that synthetic engine oils are better than crude derivatives in every way. But people seem to be compelled to argue against it. Arguing about a fact doesn't change it, and the arguments are, by default, fiction.
Jet engines produce 10, 20, 30 times higher rpm than auto engines, and operate with temperatures in the range of 2000-3000 degrees F. Amsoil synthetic lubricants were originated, and are still made, by an ex-Air Force jet engine mechanic. His reasoning was, if synthetic lubricants can protect the components of jet engines from such extremely harmful operating conditions, they can certainly do the same for automotive applications.
The fact is, he was and is right.
Last edited by manxman; Jan 1, 2008 at 01:39 PM.
imho unless you're tracking your car or running FI, amsoil is overkill.
i use mobil1 and change once a year or 10k miles on my cars when
running synthetics. wont hurt to change it more, but you're just
putting more waste to the environment. my cars are not tracked.
since my first oil change is free i'll let the dealer do that, but
from there on, im going to use Mobil1 with the above intervals
as i have been for a long time...
i use mobil1 and change once a year or 10k miles on my cars when
running synthetics. wont hurt to change it more, but you're just
putting more waste to the environment. my cars are not tracked.
since my first oil change is free i'll let the dealer do that, but
from there on, im going to use Mobil1 with the above intervals
as i have been for a long time...
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