Hey, Claymore,
Where'd you get the magnetic drain plug? That's not OEM, is it?

HF

 

Nasty but I'm not sure this makes the case for changing the oil filter though - has the filter reached a level of crud such that it requires changing? Do you change your vacuum cleaner bags after every vacuum? No, they have a capacity as does any filter. You would have to either cut the filter apart and make a visual inspection, or test the flow through the filter to make an informed judgement about the need for changing. Also, some of what collects in the bottom of the pan is too heavy to be circulated so the filter wouldn't catch it anyway.

 

More cheapos .....when the cost of the filter gets to an amount that makes a difference then I will stop changing them every oil change.

Right now they are chump change and not worth cutting open to find all that nasty stuff inside I KNOW there is nasty stuff inside and the amount of money involved makes it so uncomplicated to just toss the thing and put a new one on it's not even worth debating I mean what are you out.. a couple of coffees and 3 minutes of time to be insured CLEAN oil. What's your piece of mind worth to you???

Mine are the spoon set and vendors on Fitfreak sell them. But The no name brand another vendor sells or at any auto parts store WORK JUST AS WELL for 1/3 the price. If I had know that I would have gone with the cheapos.

 

Well if we're going to resort to name calling . . . never mind - bite me!!

Maybe your car is the only thing in your life that you spend money on but I could justify spending $100's weekly on these cheapo maintenance items as you call them if I took the same approach so I don't. I avoid cheapo oil filters because they are not as good as the more expensive ones. I use synthetic oils to avoid coking (due to overheating) and gumming (short trips where the engine stays cold which is the bigger problem) issues. I have peace of mind that I am not doing damage to my engine by doing one change a year or fewer. I have even more peace of mind because I am not spending my time or my money replacing things that don't need to be replaced.

Your peace of mind may run differently which is OK for you.

 

Wow .....touchy touchy pissed for being called cheap???? Do it your way whatever WHO CARES it's so little money it's not worth any more discussion with your getting pissed. If you READ the post all the way to the end I also said I would go with the cheapos drain plugs I guess I should be pissed at myself for calling myself a cheapo....

 

Let me get on those Honda engineers and tell them they are all wrong about only changing oil filters every other oil change!

I can see there being material after initial breakin but if you are getting that much material after this period then you gotta have something letting loose in your engine! Remind me not to buy your car when you sell...

And after the second oil change at 3000 miles? Why so soon? Your maintenance minder tell you to change it then? You chould be going to about 7500 miles...

 

I change my oil AND FILTER every 5,000 KM or about 3,00 miles. But then again I also change my transmission fluid, antifreeze, spark plugs and clean my K&N air filter at the same intervals. Because I want to... and I guaranty my oil is cleaner than yours. And years of research by a large fleet that changing these parts and oil and filter at this amount of miles reduces maintenance costs over the life of vehicles.

That crud is in all internal combustion engines even yours pop a set off them into your car and see your sludge. A lot of time as past since that photo was taken so I guess your prediction that something was wrong with my engine was INCORRECT.

Your one of "Those guys" that have to rely on your maintenance minder to tell you when to change your oil like o wow I could go more miles until I HAD to change my oil. Never mind I prefer preventative maintenance you keep right on waiting until you car tells you to change it's oil and leave in the crud from your oil filter for the second time.... man that's like a second use condom.

But by no means does this prevent you from doing it your way.... different strokes for blah blah yada yada.

 

IMHO--------
The maintenance schedules printed in the owner's manuals of all models from all manufacturers are only there to prevent unnecessary warranty claims. Following those schedules will get you to the end of your drive train warranty mileage or time without the maker having to fix engine or emissions problems for free.

But Honda does not want your Fit to be the last car (or Honda) that you ever have to buy- it isn't intended to last forever. The cleaner you keep your oil, the less wear the engine will experience. With all of the interest in after-market intake systems, those of us with low restriction intakes should be aware that we are most likely contributing more contamination in the oil than would be there with stock intake systems.
Filtration ability is most likely reduced (more dirt gets into the engine) compared to stock paper filters that are frequently replaced. Most of us are already in the "severe" driving category just with our habits, whether or not we drive in high temps. and dusty conditions.

Your car will last longer, with less problems, if you change the oil, oil filter, and air filter, MORE often than called for by the car maker. If you just do the MINIMUM maintenance called for by the manual or a dumb little meter on the dash, all that you can be sure of is having it last through the warranty period. If you enjoy doing your own maintenance work, and can easily afford more frequent oil and filter changes, your car will be in much better condition than the same car with the minimum of care.

 

Next time, Dave, send them a sample of your original oil as well as the oil removed. Its the gain that counts and surprisingly the original oils have metals in them too. Original oil is easy last hour's draining from the oil 'can'. Save til oil change next time.

 

Wow, that's deep. You're getting offended and pissy - OMG.

 

Yep lifes a bitch and I'm pretty pissed at myself for calling myself a cheapo

 

Dave, I just found this tread and was wondering why you did not spring for the TBN so you could tell the state of the additive package. Also the report did not or could not tell if the oil had sheared out of grade because they may not of been told you had used the OEM glop 5W-20.

I'm at 4000 mile and 50% and I plan on doing mine real soon.

I want to see how the OEM 1st oil UOA compares to change to with reg Honda oil, based on test data. I was told this 1st fill was some kind of special brew deigned for break in and the test would show that in the additives.

 

Here's the answer-
I use Amsoil full synthetic oil, and Amsoil "EA" filters, and believe that it is the best available. I have used it for over 20 years. The drain interval recommended by the oil manufacturer is 25000 miles. I only drive about 7000 miles per year, as I am retired and no longer have a daily commute. So I change my oil and filter once per year, and change the filter again mid-year, adding 1 pint of oil at the filter-only change. My driving is considered to be the "extreme" type, since most of my trips are short range.

In past years with other cars/trucks, also using Amsoil synthetic, I had analysis done periodically with test samples, and in 20 years never saw any indication of excessive wear or contamination. Now, with a new Honda, I don't feel the need for obsessive tests or comparisons with used factory oil. IMO, you can't go too far in the care of your engine, so I don't think badly of people who ARE obsessive in their car care. But my confidence in Amoil's quality and extremely long life is, again, based on over 20 years of experience.

 

I was looking close at David's Blackstone report today and now I see why Honda says leave to original oil in. It is in fact very different than any oil you can buy other than Joe Gibbs race oil. It's loaded and mean more than I have ever seen with Moly. At 650 it's huge.

I run and have tested Royal Purple XRP and Schaeffer's Micron Moly in my 100+ hp race engines and they only have 200 to 250ppm Moly. Most oils have ZERO or a trace.

One thing you will see is on the next oil sample is, the oil itself may have next to nothing (as far as Moly if it was tested virgin), but that original oil has coated the engine and the next oil test will show I'm guessing 50 or more. leaching of it into the oil

I still want to see if the oil sheared out of grade so need to check the std for that grade oil.

 

I have over 30 years of driving, changing my own oil under my belt. I USED to me an advocate of full synthetic oils years. But with the advance in todays oils I no longer support that idea. Nothing wrong with synthetic but I just don't see the need.

I have had many cars, most had upwards of 300,000 miles when I got rid of them. Some had regular oil, some synthetic. I have NEVER had an oil related failure of any type, NEVER. So ask yourself, when have you heard of anyone having an oil related failure. Bet it is pretty rare.

Having said all this, I buy my oil usually at Walmart. And I buy their generic brand. Its usually cheapest! It meets all the latest ratings, SF, SJ, SL or what ever they are up to now. Federally mandated ratings. And I will go at least 7000 - 8000 miles between oil changes with regular oil. If I do use the Walmart generic synthetic I will go at least 15,000 miles between changes. Same with the oil filter. But I do use a quality oil filter.

FYI- Honda's recommendation on changing the Fit oil filter is EVERY OTHER OIL CHANGE! Hey, who am I to argue with Honda's engineers? Again, when is the last time you have seen a oil related failure. Espically on a Honda...

 

And that's just the ferrous metal bits (iron).



Remember, the Fit has an aluminum engine....anybody have a magnet that catches aluminum???

(I change the filter every time...)

 

casing is aluminum, the sleeves are still iron.

 

Don't shoot the messenger about changing the filter every other oil change. Personally, I don't see any harm in it. If you are using synthetic and letting the oil go 15000 miles why change the filter? So if you are changing conventional oil avery (about) 7500 miles, per the maintenance minder, why not let the filter go that long. You think there is that mutch crud coming out of your engine? Think again... Again, the Honda engineers are saying to change it every other oil change... I am just the messenger...

 

Just an update on this post: I'm about to send a new sample in for analysis. Right now I've got 9,000 miles on the BioSyn -- I'm going to get it analyzed at 10,000. I changed the air filter at 10,000 (total vehicle miles) and I added 1/3 quart of make-up oil last week. I'll probably ask Blackstone for a TBN reading on the oil when I send it in.

 

I'm glad you saw and plan to take my advice. The TBN will tell you how spent the additive package is on that VERY extended run you made. I'd guess around 1.

I'm surprised no other comments on the Moly content as well as the HIGH metal content being run so long.

I'm tempted to post your oil sample on BITOG site and see what the oil pros say. Do you mind? Would you be able to handle the truth...lol