Changing wiper blades
Changing wiper blades
How do you change (the rubber blade replacements only) blades on the Fit?
The one on the rear window is not too bad, although a tad tricky, but the front windows have a rubber booted section that overlaps them, and I don't want to damage this--any suggestions or recommendations? (other than having the dealer do it!)
The one on the rear window is not too bad, although a tad tricky, but the front windows have a rubber booted section that overlaps them, and I don't want to damage this--any suggestions or recommendations? (other than having the dealer do it!)
i think the design is a tad subpar. These things don't clean the windshield to save a life. BUT, check your owner's manual....it actually has instructions 
i spent 10 minutes yelling at my wipers until i decided to check the manual.

i spent 10 minutes yelling at my wipers until i decided to check the manual.
Its pretty easy, the edge closer to the drivers side (on the insert) will have notches where the rubber "clips" into the blade, pop it loose there and make sure you not which way the 2 metal inserts are curved as this is crucial to the blade operating properly
I went to my dealer to get new rubber replacements today (it's been two years, and they were due), and happily I asked them to show me how to do it. Good thing too! After 20 odd minutes we were still not there! 
However, it seems the parts they supplied to me had the correct part numbers, but were the wrong ones, and so it was not so simple to do!
However, it's still a bit tricky and people should be aware: If they've bought some replacement wipers (i.e. complete blades with rubber profiles and holders), and thus changed out more than only the rubber sections that actually wipe the glass, they should not (NOT) throw away the old/original blades--the ones I have, (which are rubber booted) cost quite a bit ($50.00 each) and are not meant to be tossed. I am so glad I asked for assistance at the dealer, and BTW: it's not covered in the manuals properly because I asked, and they told me, regretfully it was not properly explained. This came as no surprise to me, since a)I used to write manuals and know all too well how they can be lacking, and: b)what seems simple to some folks, can be very difficult for others, and c) in this day and age, they cut content in virtually all manuals, since printing costs are so high.
With the latter point, just think about computer software and how lucky you are if you even get a decent manual on a CD!
Now, here's the most important thing!: When you go to remove these rubber sections, they usually break, so you will need to have replacements on hand before you make any attempts. And: There are two thin metal reinforcing strips (which hold them on as well), that you need to retain (repeat: DO NOT DISCARD NOR DAMAGE THESE!!!), as they must be re-used and re-inserted into the new rubber profiles (and they only go in one way--i.e. from one end only!), and then you will be able to slide them back into the blade holder (the rubber booted one in my case--these may be different in the USA, I don't really know....perhaps others can advise?).
AND: It's easier if you un-clip the blade holders first, and take it off of the car before you attempt to change out the worn rubber profiles. This is the easy step, since it snaps into place on the wiper arm, and you can depress the locking device without tools. Then you are done, you'll snap them back on to lock them back onto the arms, and that's also easy!
I hope that this was of some help to others--I'm just glad I was not too embarrassed to ask before I tried to do it by myself--I would have learned the hard way!
Later....
PS: Don't ya just love the internet's better side?!

However, it seems the parts they supplied to me had the correct part numbers, but were the wrong ones, and so it was not so simple to do!

However, it's still a bit tricky and people should be aware: If they've bought some replacement wipers (i.e. complete blades with rubber profiles and holders), and thus changed out more than only the rubber sections that actually wipe the glass, they should not (NOT) throw away the old/original blades--the ones I have, (which are rubber booted) cost quite a bit ($50.00 each) and are not meant to be tossed. I am so glad I asked for assistance at the dealer, and BTW: it's not covered in the manuals properly because I asked, and they told me, regretfully it was not properly explained. This came as no surprise to me, since a)I used to write manuals and know all too well how they can be lacking, and: b)what seems simple to some folks, can be very difficult for others, and c) in this day and age, they cut content in virtually all manuals, since printing costs are so high.
With the latter point, just think about computer software and how lucky you are if you even get a decent manual on a CD!
Now, here's the most important thing!: When you go to remove these rubber sections, they usually break, so you will need to have replacements on hand before you make any attempts. And: There are two thin metal reinforcing strips (which hold them on as well), that you need to retain (repeat: DO NOT DISCARD NOR DAMAGE THESE!!!), as they must be re-used and re-inserted into the new rubber profiles (and they only go in one way--i.e. from one end only!), and then you will be able to slide them back into the blade holder (the rubber booted one in my case--these may be different in the USA, I don't really know....perhaps others can advise?).
AND: It's easier if you un-clip the blade holders first, and take it off of the car before you attempt to change out the worn rubber profiles. This is the easy step, since it snaps into place on the wiper arm, and you can depress the locking device without tools. Then you are done, you'll snap them back on to lock them back onto the arms, and that's also easy!

I hope that this was of some help to others--I'm just glad I was not too embarrassed to ask before I tried to do it by myself--I would have learned the hard way!

Later....
PS: Don't ya just love the internet's better side?!
Wiper Details
IDIOTIC DESIGN EXPERTLY EXECUTED:
Hints:
***Buy replacements at the dealer parts counter. The total for both is less than $15 - a bargain to keep your car oem and looking much better than with stamped metal junk. I had the car with ugly ones for a while and you fail to notice you are looking at them (or close to them) the whole time you drive. It really diminishes the quality of the experience. You might have your spotless Fit detailed, but those stamped Bosch or Rainex arms look crappy compared to the articulated aerodynamic solid shape of the oems.
***Read the manual instructions.
***Follow the procedure with confidence. Remember you are investing less than $20 to restore your car.
***Look for microscopic text on the blade ends:
one end says "tip", the other "lock".
***Don't be afraid to get medieval on the old ones. Don't damage the outer rubber. Pry out the "lock" end thick rubber back from the channel WITH A BIC PEN. As soon as the "lock" end portrudes, it is simple to gently slide the whole thing out of the chanel. THE CRITICAL PART IS TO RECOVER THE METAL STRIPS.
***You might get away with resting the metal strips in the channels of the shorter blade as you reverse the process and gently drop in the new blade "tip" end first.
***Don't bother trying to park the metal strips in the long blade. (It's easier to balance a wet noodle on one end.) Make sure the first three or four inches on the "tip" end are in place and begin the slide-in process. Park the metal strips as you go in.
The quality of the materials is excellent. The blade material is silky so it won't bind as it goes in.
VROOOOOOOOOOOM,
magaphoto
Hints:
***Buy replacements at the dealer parts counter. The total for both is less than $15 - a bargain to keep your car oem and looking much better than with stamped metal junk. I had the car with ugly ones for a while and you fail to notice you are looking at them (or close to them) the whole time you drive. It really diminishes the quality of the experience. You might have your spotless Fit detailed, but those stamped Bosch or Rainex arms look crappy compared to the articulated aerodynamic solid shape of the oems.
***Read the manual instructions.
***Follow the procedure with confidence. Remember you are investing less than $20 to restore your car.
***Look for microscopic text on the blade ends:
one end says "tip", the other "lock".
***Don't be afraid to get medieval on the old ones. Don't damage the outer rubber. Pry out the "lock" end thick rubber back from the channel WITH A BIC PEN. As soon as the "lock" end portrudes, it is simple to gently slide the whole thing out of the chanel. THE CRITICAL PART IS TO RECOVER THE METAL STRIPS.
***You might get away with resting the metal strips in the channels of the shorter blade as you reverse the process and gently drop in the new blade "tip" end first.
***Don't bother trying to park the metal strips in the long blade. (It's easier to balance a wet noodle on one end.) Make sure the first three or four inches on the "tip" end are in place and begin the slide-in process. Park the metal strips as you go in.
The quality of the materials is excellent. The blade material is silky so it won't bind as it goes in.
VROOOOOOOOOOOM,
magaphoto
replacement wipers
I also found the Fit's OEM blades are "all season" in design--I really had no need to change them to "winter wipers" as I do for my Accord. The rear wiper is pretty much a standard design, but the square shaped profile of the stock "rubber booted" front windshield wipers are superior to the after market stuff I've bought over the years.
I got my replacement wipers at the parts counter, but the service managers were more then willing to help me--especially since the car's manual was of no help in getting it done correctly. Mind you, I get my car's serviced there too, and prefer to use only original Honda parts--say what you will, I have always had better results with OEM parts.
Later,
I got my replacement wipers at the parts counter, but the service managers were more then willing to help me--especially since the car's manual was of no help in getting it done correctly. Mind you, I get my car's serviced there too, and prefer to use only original Honda parts--say what you will, I have always had better results with OEM parts.
Later,
IDIOTIC DESIGN EXPERTLY EXECUTED:
Hints:
***Buy replacements at the dealer parts counter. The total for both is less than $15 - a bargain to keep your car oem and looking much better than with stamped metal junk. I had the car with ugly ones for a while and you fail to notice you are looking at them (or close to them) the whole time you drive. It really diminishes the quality of the experience. You might have your spotless Fit detailed, but those stamped Bosch or Rainex arms look crappy compared to the articulated aerodynamic solid shape of the oems.
***Read the manual instructions.
***Follow the procedure with confidence. Remember you are investing less than $20 to restore your car.
***Look for microscopic text on the blade ends:
one end says "tip", the other "lock".
***Don't be afraid to get medieval on the old ones. Don't damage the outer rubber. Pry out the "lock" end thick rubber back from the channel WITH A BIC PEN. As soon as the "lock" end portrudes, it is simple to gently slide the whole thing out of the chanel. THE CRITICAL PART IS TO RECOVER THE METAL STRIPS.
***You might get away with resting the metal strips in the channels of the shorter blade as you reverse the process and gently drop in the new blade "tip" end first.
***Don't bother trying to park the metal strips in the long blade. (It's easier to balance a wet noodle on one end.) Make sure the first three or four inches on the "tip" end are in place and begin the slide-in process. Park the metal strips as you go in.
The quality of the materials is excellent. The blade material is silky so it won't bind as it goes in.
VROOOOOOOOOOOM,
magaphoto
Hints:
***Buy replacements at the dealer parts counter. The total for both is less than $15 - a bargain to keep your car oem and looking much better than with stamped metal junk. I had the car with ugly ones for a while and you fail to notice you are looking at them (or close to them) the whole time you drive. It really diminishes the quality of the experience. You might have your spotless Fit detailed, but those stamped Bosch or Rainex arms look crappy compared to the articulated aerodynamic solid shape of the oems.
***Read the manual instructions.
***Follow the procedure with confidence. Remember you are investing less than $20 to restore your car.
***Look for microscopic text on the blade ends:
one end says "tip", the other "lock".
***Don't be afraid to get medieval on the old ones. Don't damage the outer rubber. Pry out the "lock" end thick rubber back from the channel WITH A BIC PEN. As soon as the "lock" end portrudes, it is simple to gently slide the whole thing out of the chanel. THE CRITICAL PART IS TO RECOVER THE METAL STRIPS.
***You might get away with resting the metal strips in the channels of the shorter blade as you reverse the process and gently drop in the new blade "tip" end first.
***Don't bother trying to park the metal strips in the long blade. (It's easier to balance a wet noodle on one end.) Make sure the first three or four inches on the "tip" end are in place and begin the slide-in process. Park the metal strips as you go in.
The quality of the materials is excellent. The blade material is silky so it won't bind as it goes in.
VROOOOOOOOOOOM,
magaphoto
buy from the dealer = you'll be happy
>***Don't be afraid to get medieval on the old ones. Don't damage the outer rubber. Pry out the "lock" end thick rubber back from the channel WITH A BIC PEN. As soon as the "lock" end portrudes, it is simple to gently slide the whole thing out of the chanel. THE CRITICAL PART IS TO RECOVER THE METAL STRIPS.
Magaphoto: Your procedure as outlined in your original post is very good. The factory owner's manual directions tell you only a little of what you need to do. At best it's a start. Today I had a lot of trouble replacing the passenger side front wiper insert. I couldn't pull the insert out the "lock" end with my fingers. Maybe I'm a wimp LOL. I used a small flat blade screwdriver to pry up under the lock end rather than a BIC pen which wasn't handy. Once the end was pried up I still couldn't get the insert to slide out. I then used a needle nose pliers to grasp the thick part of the rubber backbone of the insert and finally it started to slide out. It was very stiff. You almost need three hands to do this job. Definitely requires a lot of patience.
Magaphoto: Your procedure as outlined in your original post is very good. The factory owner's manual directions tell you only a little of what you need to do. At best it's a start. Today I had a lot of trouble replacing the passenger side front wiper insert. I couldn't pull the insert out the "lock" end with my fingers. Maybe I'm a wimp LOL. I used a small flat blade screwdriver to pry up under the lock end rather than a BIC pen which wasn't handy. Once the end was pried up I still couldn't get the insert to slide out. I then used a needle nose pliers to grasp the thick part of the rubber backbone of the insert and finally it started to slide out. It was very stiff. You almost need three hands to do this job. Definitely requires a lot of patience.
Last edited by KwazyKwaig; Jul 11, 2021 at 11:37 PM. Reason: add name of original poster
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